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Stainless Steel Valves: First Ride!


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Okay.. so here's what we've all been waiting for. For those who haven't followed along, I got a set of stainless steel valves made by Ferrea, and bought the new conicle springs from WMR and finally got to ride it today.

Good an bad... first the good.... I noticed NO horsepower loss at all. The motor felt like it almost pulled a little more consistant up high. But DO NOT mistake that for finding the lost top end.

Now for the bad: Suzuki didn't build it this way to start with.

I bought this setup for durability reasons only. I was even willing to sacrifice horsepower for the durability. But as it turns out, the performance was the same as stock. If you're worried about losing power, fear not. It there's a loss in power I didn't feel it.

We'll have to wait and see if the durability is there in the long run though. But, I can't imagine it won't be.

I give it two thumbs up.... WAY up! ?

~Tex

RMZ w/Heavy Metal

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That's good news Tex...I hope it still runs strong in the months to come. You also changed out the head right? I haven't had any valve issues yet, but wonder if it would be a good idea to change out the valves and springs but leave the old head in? In any case, its good to know you are back up and running. ?

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I did the head-swap just as a precaution. I liked the idea of the missing oil groove being machined in the intake-cam journal, and just starting with fresh seats and guides. I wanted this to be my LAST valve job.

I'm going to check my clearances periodicly, but that's it. I expect to run on this setup for a L O N G time.

Whether or not the head swap is totally necessary is probably up to the individual. For me... I'm just being safe.

~Tex

RMZ w/Heavy Metal

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Yes, the WMR head swap has the special material seats... I think they're bronze/nickel. Anyway...

Here's the costs:

4 Valves Total: $140

Springs: $189

WMR Head Swap: $325

Total: $654

That's the basics. I also replaced the buckets and timing chain while I was at it. Again... just to be safe. This is my last valve job. If I have to do another one, it'll be to make it run so I can trade it in.

~Tex

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I agree Dirt. I think you can get away with just the valves and springs. I just wanted to be sure this was the end of the valve problem. But, as long as you have somebody that knows what they're doing put in the valves, instead of the monkey at the local shop who just shoves the new valves in without doing anything else, it should be just fine.

Let er rip!

~Tex

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the nickel bronze seats are usally installed to help draw heat from the valve and are about 10 points softer than the steel seats they are a good compromize for a all out racing aplication with titanium valves and they also work well with corosive fuels but they are softer and will recess sooner than the steel i have found a bronze that works better than the ampco that most shops are using and holds up very well ,i dont know what wmr is using but i have been using this bronze in dirt track bikes 883 harleys with the ferea valves and it holds it seat about twice as long as ampco 45.

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WMR has their stainless valves available now. As for Ferrea, I had them custom make them for me. It took 8 days from me ordering till they were at my door.

Ferrea probably hates me now because everyone is calling for this valve that they don't keep in stock. ? But they do have the specs on hand and it doesn't seem to be a big deal to make them from a blank valve.

~Tex

RMZ w/Heavy Metal

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Hey TexLaBo, I see you did all 4 valves. You did the complete package to have less maintenance down the road as you have been saying, not a bad choice. I also would prefer reliability and less frequent maintenance of parts like these, and would be willing to trade power. Glad you didn't feel any power loss though. I think WMR was also saying there wouldn't be power loss, due to how the fancy spring works.

Most people have no problem with the exhaust valves. I wonder if it is necessary to do those, for the rider on a tighter budget.

I heard the 2005's have different seats, so that one may already be done for 2005 owners.

Keep track of your hours or miles, it would be interesting to see how this setup lasts compared to the beginning when you bought your bike. Thats the milestone it needs to pass. Although it took you 9 months to do that, right? So unless you start riding more, we probably have a long wait for results.

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Hey Tex...Hope you don't mind answering a couple more questions. I just went to the WMR website and looked at all their tech briefs and was just wondering what happened to the ti valves? Are they just too expensive, or would they not last as long as the ss valves? Thanks.

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Actually both! Considering there are about 9,000 theories on why the stock valves are going bad, I just didn't want to take the chance with another Ti valve. Stainless are way stronger and I'm sick of the valve thing. I wanted it to be a complete non-issue for the rest of the time I own this bike.

Also, I just didn't want to spend $700 on just the valves. My budget is pretty tight these days and, I did all that I did for less than the price of those valves alone. I'm sure they're good... but I wanted bulletproof.

~Tex

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? I didn't know the Ti valves were that much! I would go with the SS valves as well, even if there was a HP issue which you said you didn't notice. The head is quite a bit of money too, but after reading several articles and posts here, I want the oil groove in the intake cam as well. If I knew a good machinist I would get the oil port done on my stock head, but I don't really want to chance that. Thanks for the info...again. ?
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Dirt... take your pick. I believe WMR has their stainless in stock, though I have no idea what they're charging for them. Or call Ferrea and see if they'll make you a set. I'm nobody special... I don't have a shop or anything. I just called them and asked if they could make a set, and they did.

Take yer pick...

~Tex

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