Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

disabling fork bladder "HOW TO" -_- pics inside -_-

Recommended Posts

I take no credit for this mod what so ever as I'm dumb as a post and could not have come up with this on my own. :cry:

I only offer pictures of what to remove as instructed from other threads. :cry:

TRAIL RIDING SUSPENSION SETTINGS

HOW DO I FIX THESE HARSH FORKS

As quoted from Shockdoc :cry:

OK I will try......The seals being dry deff. causes stiction. If you have to take them out then you run the risk of damaging the bushings. On a new bike you don't want to do this.

First take the forks apart. Once the spring and cartridge is out take and carefully pull the dust wiper out. Now take and slowly pull the fork apart untill it stops. Don't slam or hammer them. Once the fork is pulled all the way apart you will notice that the chrome stops and there is almost a slight edge and then discoloration. Take some good seal grease (I use Torco) and smear on the fork tube right where the chrome ends. Then take and spin the fork tube and work a small amount a grease into the seal (while its still installed) and also on the dust wiper. Don't gob it in but just enough to lube the seal. Now put the wiper back in and wipe off the excess.

These forks don't have the washer sitting on top of the cartridge like the previous years. That piece (CV valve) the spring sits on top of the cartridge will tap off of the cartridge. Inside it is a cpl special washers and a spring. You can just simply take these pieces out, tap the spring holder back onto cartridge and thats it. You can leave the bladder in and just set your oil level like you would for a normal KYB without bladders. Instantly good working KYB's.

doc

When you get the forks apart look where the spring sits on the top of it. That aluminum seat is slightly pressed onto the cartridge. You can carefully/lightly tap it off and remove the 2 washers and spring inside it. Then tap it carefully/lightly back on. Leave the bladder alone tho (it can stay in) and put back together. Fill back up with oil as you would a non bladder KYB fork and your harshness will be gone. :cry:

doc

Enoy!

all+together.jpg

3+springs.jpgsprings+still+on.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No such thing as a stupid question. :cry:

There should be 3 pictures in the post.

Yes...It does tap off from underneath.

Once the forks are apart it becomes very obvious.

Tap off the piece that has the white plastic ring on it.

Joe

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Another reason the forks seem to stick or bind is because the lower fork tubes don't properly lined up with the upper tubes. This often happens when the front wheel is removed and has not been properly re-installed. The method to prevent this is as follows:

When re-installing the front wheel keep the axle clamp bolts loose and torque the alxe bolt to spec. Lift the front tire off the ground and spin it quickly. Stop it from spinning with the front brake. Repeat this 3-4 times then torque the axle clamp bolts to spec. The wheel,lower and upper tubes will now be force true.

Try this if you find the fork action stiff/sticky/binding when sitting on the bike pushing down on the bars and while holding the front brake.

Joe

:cry:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

×