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throttle cable routing

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Do the cables rout to left and under the frame backbone or to the right? Should the throttle housing feed be above the the handle bars or below? No matter how I fish them between the headlight and the handle bars, everytime I turn the bars to the right the engine revs.

02 drz400s

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520_H_BAR.jpg

See the cables going over the bar and to the left of the headstock. You can refit the throttle so the cables are below the bar.

Cheers

Ian

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Just rotate the throttle tube 180 degrees so the two cables are under the bars, not on top. Gives you plenty of slack - thats what I did when I installed Bar Risers on my DRZ :cry:

Here is a pic of it - notice my kill switch is pointed up - and you can see my throttle cables are not on the top :cry:

Mvc-834f.jpg

you have to remove the master cylinder to rotate it, then just put it back on :cry:

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The only way the engine can be reving from simple turning of the bars is because you don't have the throttle cables secure at the carb. Ther are two nuts on each cable...one above the bracket and one below. I believe they are loose allowing the entire cable with sleeve to move and pull on the throttle when you turn the bars.

Check it out.

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The only way the engine can be reving from simple turning of the bars is because you don't have the throttle cables secure at the carb. Ther are two nuts on each cable...one above the bracket and one below. I believe they are loose allowing the entire cable with sleeve to move and pull on the throttle when you turn the bars.

Check it out.

Yeah - but if thats the case, then the cables are still too tight...should not put any tension on them when turning the bars :cry:

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The only way the engine can be reving from simple turning of the bars is because you don't have the throttle cables secure at the carb. Ther are two nuts on each cable...one above the bracket and one below. I believe they are loose allowing the entire cable with sleeve to move and pull on the throttle when you turn the bars.

Check it out.

I've not found that to be the case :cry:

The cable housing is just wound flat wire coated in plastic, It will stretch easy if placed in tension,, but the inner wire cable will not stretch ,, and then you have the throttle move. Also, the cable housing is not very securely crimped at the ends (any of the 4 on the pull cable) and can pull out of the metal ends

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I see what you are saying. Yes...a seperation in the sleeve would allow the throttle on the carb to move just by pulling the the cable.

He needs to look for these sperations as well.

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I see what you are saying. Yes...a seperation in the sleeve would allow the throttle on the carb to move just by pulling the the cable.

He needs to look for these sperations as well.

Not just the separations at the ends,, but the housing it self is just long coil of wire,, and very stretchy.. It is designed to resist compression,, and does so well, while still being flexibly,, but if ya pull on it (like a misrouted cable and fully turned bars) it will stretch,, pulling the inner cable wire with it,,,,...

I'm not guessing on this as a theory :cry: I’ve seen it many times, on my bikes, and lots of others :cry:

This may not be the issue with the bike in question… but it does happen a lot.

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I believe you. It makes logical sense...especially on a rough and tumble trail bike. You are probably right on the money.

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They go between the left fork leg and frame headset , then cross over through the frame between the upper (backbone) and lower frame tube just bellow the backbone , then behind the hoses.

Try and rout them as strait as you can without any sharp kinks or bends.

Then turn the bars before you put the headlight/number plate on to make sure their is no binding or that the cable dosn't get caught and stretch..........feeeeuuw , Now I'm confused :cry:

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I took everything loose, re-routed and re-zip tied and I think I've stopped the problem. These forums are great. Thanks for the assistance.

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