Hot-start switch - how hard to install?


Is this just a stall or a case of laying the bike down and flooding?

If it is flooding then may I recommend a good clearing/starting procedure:

1) turn off the gas at the petcock

2) hold the throttle wide open

3) finger on the kill switch (prevents a backfire "fire" through a gas soaked air screen/filter)

4) kick through 5 or 6 times (make it easy on yourself and use the decompression lever)

5) turn on gas at petcock

6) start normally (no throttle)

I have never had a hot start problem if the BRP has not been flooded, so I wouldn't recommend a hot-start setup. :)

[ May 02, 2002: Message edited by: needsprayer ]

I did the trick recommended to uncork my new 650R - opened up the airbox, took the restrictor out of the manifold, and cut the rubber out of the way, went from 125 to 165 main and 65 to 68 pilot jets, moved the jet needle to 3rd from top. Runs great - don't much need the choke. But it's awful to start on an uphill after stalling. Even clearing it out, things will load up again within a couple kicks.

I've seen hot-start setups - Terrycable has a universal one - how easy is the install?



The real answer to not flooding is the edelbrock pumper carb. Sometimes when the bike is really flooded you will have to use the decompression and kick 20 times, 6 is rarely enough. You will never start it on a hill with the stock carb either. The edelbrock starts anywhere, anytime,has much better low end throttle response, and adjusts the fuel-air ratio for altitude.The next best thing to electric start.

It's both, really. It is jetted a bit rich as a result of 165 main jet and needle in 3rd position from top. But it's far worse than my XR250 was.

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