A.P linkage, '02 WR 250F

[Drinkn_Buddy]

Guys, i need to know how your linkage operates normally. I had my carb apart this weekend for general P.M and noticed that when i held the slide wide open, the linkage did not go all the way down to the metal stop moulded in the side of the carb housing.

I have not messed with this linkage and thusly i do not know what normal operation looks like. I took care of my bog with lj's and diaphragms. I can advnace the linkage manually with my finger to the stop with no resistance and it still discharges fuel.

Examining the linkage, it seems pretty simple. Two opposing springs and a actuator rod. I checked the rod, it was straight. I checked for gunk in the pivot of the arm, it was clean.

Before i go any further, i would like to get some advice from someone that knows what a properly operating unit should do. I do not want to create a problem if one does not exist, know what i mean???

[Drinkn_Buddy]

Nobody knows???

[Rick_Kienle]

Its just hard to tell from you description. Is sounds like everything is Okay but I would have to print out your description, take my throttle cable cover off and check it out. The linkage does only move in one direction when adjusted properly and I do not beleive that is is supposed to contact the carb housing at all. Just the stop screw.

[Drinkn_Buddy]

Thanks for the response Rick. I think that i found the problem. The washer on the link lever had a groove worn in it that was putting slop in the linkage ( could wiggle the link in and out vertically) and was allowing the rod to drag slightly inside of its passage. This only had an effect at the end of the stroke where the springs tension had deminished. Mic'd the washer and got a substitute from a local electronics supplier and all seems good.

Rick, one thing.... I went back through the whole slide/timing thing. I guess i did not notice the first time i did it, too distraught over the other problem i guess. As far as i tightend up that adjuster screw, i never got to a point where i had any wiggle in the link arm!! It seems to me that it would be almost impossible to detect anyway with the 2 opposing springs in there???

[Whoya]

Drinkn buddie, I just pulled my carb off tonight to give it a thorough cleaning. Did you have to replace all the gaskets? The bike has been sitting about two months and is a 01' First time going through the carb, any tips?

Going to scan the manual right now.

[Drinkn_Buddy]

Whoya, No i did not have to replace any of my gaskets. All of my rubber looks good. All of the diaphragms are in good shape. My bike, when it is stored is never stored with fuel in it and i attribute this to the rubber being in good shape.

The only thing that i had to replace was my pilot screw o-ring, it was deformed due to spring pressure. I usually keep about 10 of them on hand because of this. (can get them real cheap from sudco).

One specail note..... If you remove the carb bell to get to the MAJ and PAJ. Be real carefull putting it back on, the somewhat ill fitting gasket back there is easy to pinch. If you break it, i do not know of any place that carries one. After nipping mine when i originally put on my power now, i discovered this trick.

place the oring gasket in its depression the best that you can all aroung the top round part. The bottom "square" part where your air jets are, let it lay naturally outside the groove. Then carefully place the bell back in place over its studs. Using a fine flat blade or another thin tool, gently poke the protruding gasket back under the bell while you apply slight pressure. It takes a little time, and you may have to poke a little in the corners where the square part meets the rounded, you will know when you have it lined up right because the bell will fall into place with a clacking noise.

Another tip is to remove as much of your rubber before shooting the carb cleaner to it. It it stays in contact with rubber too long, it can break it down. I always chase it with compressed air afterwards to try and evaporate as much of it as possible.

If you have a clogged passage, never shove anything into it to try and dislodge it. This can cause more dammage than anything else. The best way that i have found to clear stubborn clogs is with a water pic loaded with simple green. Dont laugh, it works!!! Most of the time, you can get it unclogged by soaking it in fresh gas for a day or so, i always try that first.

If you remove your slide, take note that the vaccumn plate ( the metal thing with the small embossed M on it) faces the engine. If you install it backwards or if you look into the throat with the carb rightside up and se a "W" you got a problem.

Biggest tip that i can give is to take your time, work in a clean well lighted room and be very organizationally concious. Take this opportunity to learn about all the little inner passages in the carb itself, See where the go, what circuits they are associated with. The book has a descent diagram that you can follow along with. Knowing how the thing is put together helps out alot when you have a problem.

[Whoya]

Thanks for the info ? :cry: