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newbie with the usual questions

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Hi all

New DRZ owner as of last night from wales uk (gods country :cry:) previously ridden trials bikes.

Bought a '03 's' model in absolute showroom condition which came with the stock sprockets and trailwing tyres but had it stored at a friends garage until i'd built myself a garage and passed my test.

Will be mainly 75% road 25% dirt useage so I was looking for general advice on gearing.

The bike currently has offraod biased sprockets so I may either change to the stock items or maybe even higher gearing to prevent the bike from revving too high when road riding-opinions?

Offroad isnt an issue for me as i'm no expert so performance wise offroad wont bother me, itll be just plain trail riding and i'll be happy to poodle along at my own pace.

Tyres which came on it are michelin enduro star which i found ok on the road but slightly noisy and not really suited to the use that the bike will get so will be looking to put the trailwings back on. opinions?

Future plans are to maybe invest in some sm wheels next year, lighten the bike a little as I had some difficulty getting it up my steps to the house last night.

And also to do something with the number plate mount as its a bit on the large side :cry:

What is the recommended oil change and air filter change intervals for these bikes?

The engine braking seems a bit harsh so will be looking to drill some holes between the baffle pipe and outer ring on the stock exhaust.

After riding it last night I didnt like the way the bike revved so high when i did around 50-60mph so gearing is the priority.

When my camera batteries are charged i'll take a picture of it.

Any opinions greatly appreciated.

regards

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The engine braking seems a bit harsh so will be looking to drill some holes between the baffle pipe and outer ring on the stock exhaust.

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The engine braking seems a bit harsh so will be looking to drill some holes between the baffle pipe and outer ring on the stock exhaust.

14.gif

I read somewhere on here that due to the stock exhaust being restricted somewhat, when throttle is let off the engine braking is a bit harsh, which a suggested remedy for this problem was to open up the stock end a bit to allow more air to flow through thus creating a smoother slow down and not having it feel like you've just dumped two parachutes behind you.

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hi valleysdrz,swansea drz rider here.i run on 13 44 sprockets at the moment but want to change to a 46 on rear.at present 65 mph on gravel tracks doesn't tax the engine very much in 5th gear.the engine braking is quite strong when you off throttle,i have already drilled out the end of my pipe,it changed the sound of it and seemed to make the bike pull a bit better(some don't agree)but have not noticed any difference in the engine braking because of the tail pipe mod.the engine braking is an advantage in my opinoin as you can roll down steep hill climbs a lot easier and makes stopping in the mud easier as you don't have to lock up the back end so much.good luck . :cry:

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Did you cut out the baffle pipe as per the drz mod info on here or just drill holes between the two pipes?

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Even in God's Country, there is no way that drilling holes, or even removing the whole exhaust system will reduce engine braking. It's the compression in the cylinder that creates it, not the exhaust.

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Even in God's Country, there is no way that drilling holes, or even removing the whole exhaust system will reduce engine braking. It's the compression in the cylinder that creates it, not the exhaust.

The exhaust does have an influence on engine braking. The more restrictive the exhaust, the more engine braking. The engine has to work harder to pump air through a restriction. Diesel's sometimes use an exhaust brake for this very reason. :cry:

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Even in God's Country, there is no way that drilling holes, or even removing the whole exhaust system will reduce engine braking. It's the compression in the cylinder that creates it, not the exhaust.

um,yes it does. :cry:

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i didn't cut out the baffler with a hole saw i just drilled several 6mm holes around it,checking the engine sound after every hole or two.

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Wow, thought i was the only welsh guy on here and tonight i find 2 new members both from Wales maybe get a welsh Tt club formed soon :cry: :cry:

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Ahhhh well, glad I bought an "E", I have none of these problems :cry:

Millemg <<<< Not Welsh

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I would not drill the stock exhaust honestly I would purchase the Yoshimura or another brand exhaust. I personally think the Yoshi is the best but thats just my opinion but seems to also be the opinion of others. The stock gearing is 15/44 and I believe to go with a 16 tooth front sprocket you would have to remove the case saver which I don't think I would do. Although I have a 13 tooth sprocket I think the guy that owned my bike before me already removed it. If you don't like the headlight or as you said number plate I would check out the Acerbis headlights. Here is a link for a place to buy them but its in the US http://rockymountainatv.com/home.asp?sid=0005487204

I personally like these two a lot although I Still have the stock one on my bike

http://rockymountainatv.com/home.asp?sid=0005487204

http://rockymountainatv.com/home.asp?sid=0005487204

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Also if you bike doesnt already have these I would get

Unabiker Radiator Guards

www.unabiker.com

Baja Designs Skid Plate or White Bros. Skid Plater

www.bajadesigns.com or the TT store for the White Bro's.

Manual Cam Chain Tensioner

PM TT member Machinest or www.hayabusazone.com for the APE one.

CFC Case Guards

The TT Store.

Those are important things I would make sure I did first then after that I would put an exhaust and Pro Taper handle bars on it.

Congrats on your new purchase you will enjoy it but probably spend a lot more on aftermarket parts.

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