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TT-R125LE Shifters


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Mine always popped into neutral w/ the stock shifter. Mine wore out(was non-servicable). So I got the "Real Shift Lever" from Engines Only. It's a lot smoother and doesn't pop into neutral plus it was cheaper than replacing it with a stock lever. This has been a topic here before. There are some pretty conflicting opinions about the non linkage shifters, but I've never had a problem and don't know anyone that has.

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Okay, the reason I believe they have a linkage is because of how far the shift shaft sticks out. With the direct shifter, it is easy to crash and bend the shift shaft back making it very difficult to get the cases apart (if need be). I have personal experience with this and sold my direct shifter on ebay over a year ago. My 2cents, deal w/ notchy shifting!

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I don't have any problem with mine shifting funny or missing any gears. I think it feels fine maby a little play in it but no biggy. I also like the fact that if you crash the stress is in the frame where it pivits and not on the shifter shaft IMHO. When it wears out or breaks I might try a YZ shifter because they are probly cheaper.

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I think the linkage might be there to change the leverage ratio. If you look at the linkage, the levers are different lengths. This would make it easier to shift for kids.

Either that or it is designed so you can flop the pattern for the road racers. ?

My Engines Only shift lever arrived today. Off with the linkage!

Ride fast - take chances.

Chad

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ckulzer had an interesting musing, but the different lengths of the shafts can be changed to raise or lower the shifter to suit taste. Also, some cutting and welding needs to be done to change it to GP style. A direct shifter would almost always be easier for a kid b/c you lose leverage and "feel" w/ the linkage.

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Duglasfur,

You said - “the different lengths of the shafts can be changed to raise or lower the shifter to suit taste”. That was not my point. If you look at the length of the arms that the adjustable shaft is connected to, you will see that one longer than the other. The motion of the shift lever is not 1:1 with the motion of the shifter shaft coming out of the engine. You can see the length difference in the following image:

Image from Yamaha web site

I am interested to know how you figured out that “some cutting and welding needs to be done to change it to GP style”. I have only glanced at it, but you have examined it in detail. Did you or someone you know try to flop it? I never could get used to swapping like that. When I was road racing, I just used the standard pattern. I figured if it was good enough for Max Biaggi, it was good enough for me. ?

Do you have an opinion on why something as simple as a shift lever was made so complicated by the engineers?

"Racing makes heroin addiction seem like a vague craving for something salty!" Peter Egan

Chad

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I have 2 TTR's. One I Road Race and my friends that like GP shifting pattern (better when leaned over), had to cut and weld the part of the shifter on the shift shaft that attaches to the first linkage ball (part# 15 on the diagram).

The only reason I can fathom for the linkage (which is obviously more expensive to make) is b/c it reinforces the loooooong shift shaft by anchoring it to the frame. I bought a direct shifter and bent the shift shaft my first hard L side down crash after wrecking for 2 years w/o any damage. Sold it the next week on ebay. Just much less expensive to deal w/ somewhat "vague" shift feel.

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I ordered the "Engines Only" direct shifter and will check it out.

I appreciate the forewarning about posssible shaft bending, during crashes, though.

I think I'm going to riding trails pretty conservatively, at first, so I'd rather have a smoother shifting bike (for now). ?

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