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Valves slightly out of spec at 120 miles...

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I just checked'em...with two sets of feeler guages. Both exhausts read .014 (manual calls for .011 +/- .001), but intakes are in spec. I wrote it down, grabbed a beer. Nothing I can do about it now. I will ride again this weekend due to my club hosting a race and I will be riding sweep. I will check them in another 100 miles I guess, plus talk to my dealerships head mechanic. He is in my riding club.

A little history; the bike is stock, was broken in easy, changed oil/filter and air filter at 2 hours, and 8 hours. I would have to say that I have about 10 hours on it now. Bike is owned by 34 year old meticulous Air Force machinist. Maybe this gives me good reason to install the "R" cam I have in front of me and reshim?

Your inputs and/or opinions are greatly appreciated.

Marshall Rutter

(my 03 450 had no valve issues with over 100 hours....going to have another beer now)

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exhaust are a little loose I wouldn't be to worry, if the bike is running well. you'll get better proformance thought if those ex. vavles are in spec :cry:

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So, your exhaust valves are out of spec and you're going to leave them that way................?

>Nothing I can do about it now. I will ride again this weekend due to my club hosting a race and I will be riding sweep.

I think he said he had no choice

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i agree with dsmolj. not really going to hurt anything. i wouldn't recommend running out of spec, but you are close enough and on the high side to the point i doubt it would hurt anything. as valves wear they go towards 0. if anything your valve will come in spec.

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as valves wear they go towards 0. if anything your valve will come in spec.

It's weird that the valves are loose...the problems have been with tightening. Musta been loose from the factory :cry:

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It sounds as if they set loose from the factory, if I'm going to have vavles out of spec. I rather loose then tight

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Thank you for your responses. On here, I always hear compaints "my valves are out", but no one gives measurements (tight or loose) and sometimes do not tell you if it is the intake or exhaust or both.

Spoke to dealer/mech. today....ride it! No worries with .002" of "more" clearance.

I will of course be checking them again soon. The bike is a jewel and starts very easily. I only wish I checked them before it was ever cranked to get a baseline/idea of where they were at from the factory.

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I checked my sons at 30 and 90 miles, both exhaust were .012 and the left intake was .005 and the right intake was.006. Most of the last 60 miles was on the hangtown track. Still early but dont see any problem issues with the bike so far other than being a dog when it was stock. jetting, airbox mod, and exhaust mod helped that a lot. Good luck. Mike in Modesto

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Thanks for the post!

I have more info. to share from this weekend. Remember I was supposed to ride sweep for the club race....Five minutes into the morning pre-practice sweep, my X made a ting-ting-ting sound and then quit. I was in second putting along at the time. Tried to restart, but could tell I had no compression! Great....what now?

I just finished tearing the whole top end apart and found pieces of brass in the head, between valve seats and inside the header pipe. Also, I have minor marks on top of piston and in dome of head. What did my motor suck up you ask?????

It was the brass spacer from under the set screw that holds down the needle. This was caused by me when I removed the needle to raise the clip since I had cut my airbox while the bike was apart. The good news is no valves are bent and I can blend the marks in the head. I will be able to assemble soon when I get a new head gasket and base gasket; the bore, piston, and rings are fine. I was lucky! The cause for no compression was a piece of the brass holding one of my intakes open about .006". I know this because the first thing I did before dissassembly was mic the clearances. One of the intake valves had .011". I am going to take this opportunity to install the "R" cam and reshim those out of spec exhaust valves. I will be torquing the cam in with old shims and redo all 4 valves to the new cam.

I hope you pay close attention to adjusting your needle by not dropping your spring/spacer down the slide area....and yes I did do this maintenance with the slide up to help. Call me dumb, but I was very careful to put it in place before putting the set screw down; must have popped out while installing the set screw.

The weird thing is, that I found the spring still inside the carb slide area......minus the brass spacer of course!

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