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Cracked Engine Casing

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Ive somehow cracked the engine casing on right above the kickstarter. Its a nasty crack as it is now a y shape and seeps oil. Im not sure how it happened, but one day i kicked it over and it made a lovely "CRUNCH". Other than that one instance it kicks over fine. What am i up for??? I plan on replacing the engine casing, but will it happen again? :cry:

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You dont actually have to replace the engine case.

Im a cylinder head reconditioner, and we do alot of Aluminuim TIG Welding. And have welded up plenty of cracked engine cases, engine blocks, and alloy gear box housings.

It depends on how close the crack is to a machined surface for a seal to fit, like the Kick starter oli seal. Because when you weld it, it does distort, and somtimes its difficult to keep the cast alloy from NOT melting away from a machined surface. But it still definatly would be worth taking it to somone who can weld it. Youve got nothing to loose, its already stuffed, it can only get fixed, and if it dosnt work youve only still got to get a new one.

Most of the time they weld up beautifuly like butter, but some have somthing like magnezium in the alloy, and the burn fizzle and weld like [@#$%&*!]! but im sure the engine case should be fine.

With out a doubt it would be ALOT cheaper the a new engine case!

Good Luck. :cry:

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the case is probably repairable as hxr400 mentioned , there are 2 other things you could do, one is a short term repair and the other is more a final approach.

the short term would be liquid steel putty, sticks like s--t to a blanket when it sets up,its pretty much final and secondly is to change the case cover , the cover is likely $150.

Look on ebay , they do show up once in a blue moon.

stu

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First, I would look around inside to be sure there wasnt some chunk of metal that jammed in KS shaft and caused the crack.

If it flexes when kicked, have it welded or replace it. You watch while someone else kicks.

If the case is stable when kicking {no flex}, I would get a Dremel with a small carbide ball bit, and a drill. Use the ball bit to widen the crack, inside and out, to the depth of the ball. When you find the end of the crack, drill through to terminate it. Clean it well with Berrymans B12 carb cleaner, then cook it off lightly with a propane torch. Let it cool. Fill with JB WELD, sand it smooth, watch it to be sure its still stable and sealed.

Robert :cry:

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