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Lowering bike question

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I was wondering what is the easiest way to lower My WR426 about 1 to 2 inches both front and back. I called race tech and they have no spring kits that I can just bolt on.

My Motard is stickly a street bike. (no dirt, no jumps)

Thanks

Jason

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well the rear i am sure you could drop the ride height on the sag. and the forks change the position in the clamps.

why would you want to go to sutch legnths for a few inches just for road use out of interest?

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Don't lower the rear!

I had a WR and you need to lower the front about 1.5" and leave the rear stock height. That combined with the smaller 17" front wheel will be just right. They don't steer tight corners worth a damn unless you lower the front more (and I mean way more). Mine was still rock stable at 100mph even set up like that.

To get it to look level I lowered the rear subframe which is a common modification to MX/SX bikes.

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What did you do to lower the front. Did you cut the springs or heat them.

My buddy had his WR450 lowered 2 inches in the front and rear buy a oval dirt racer at a cost of 400 dollers.

He heated and compressed the front and rear springs.

I was just wondering if there was any other ways to accomplish this.

He has noticed the bike handles much better now.

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Don't use a torch on your springs!! Bad idea. Save that for the lowriders :cry:

The post above was refering to lowering the front end by raising your fork tubes in the triple clamps. Loosen the T-clamp bolts and slide up the tubes. Make sure both sides are even with each other and be a little cautious on your first ride until you get used to how the "new" bike will react. :cry:

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Most good suspension shops can shorten your fork travel... and it's reversible, they can be returned to stock easily. DO NOT heat the springs, they loose all their tension that way. My current bike has the suspension slightly lowered by www.provalvemx.com. Also, send a personal message through this board to member name Chuckie108... he used to work for RG3 where he was a suspension expert. Now he's doing a lot of Supermoto suspension out of his business Carty's Race Prep and I've heard nothing but rave reviews and he charges less than all the big shops.

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Call John at MX TECH (724) 336-3293.I just had him set up a set of Yamaha suspension (supermoto) for my 01 YZ250F. He can actually shorten the springs. :cry:

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I wrote this for another list but I figured this information is valid here and should answer the questions at hand. Let me know if it doesn't.

I'm including both the original question and my response.

>>>>>>>

Anyone know of good suspension mods. My leggs are

short and I am on my tippy toes when astride my 650R.

I am considering the kouba link or taking my machine

to a shop. At the shop they will cut the springs and

revalve the shocks for about 300.00 off bike. Will I

be losing anything??

>>>>>>>>>>

As already mentioned you will lose wheel travel if you lower either end of

the bike. On the back this will occur whether you shorten the shock or use

a lowering link (Koubalink). Neither of these options should make a

drastic difference in how easily the bike will bottom out but both will

shorten your tire-fender clearance. Actually, depending on how much the

lowering link changes the wheel rate, or how you revalve the shock, both of

these could make the bike less likely to bottom out. If you accept this as

an option then I think your best bet is to shorten the shock internally and

get it revalved at the same time. The lowering part is a very easy process

of installing a spacer (called a droop spacer) between the valve assembly

and the seal head assembly. Any competent suspension shop should be able to

do this in about an hour. You need to keep in mind that the BRP has a

roughly 3:1 linkage ratio. This means if you shorten the shock 10mm then

the seat will be about 30mm lower.

I WOULD NOT cut the springs to lower the bike. First off this really won't

work (more in a minute) and cutting/closing a spring is easy to mess up..

Did I mention the increased spring rate. The reason this won't work is the

extended length of your forks and shock is determined by the internal

length of certain critical parts, not by the spring length. In order to

shorten your forks and shock you need to make them top out earlier. I've

already mentioned how this is done in the shock, and the forks are no

different. You must install a spacer between the critical parts.. in the

forks' case this is between the rebound valve holder and the top-out spring

(the BRP's topout spring is on the inside of the cartridge). Just remember

that unlike the shock this is a 1:1 ratio. Add a 10mm spacer and the forks

will be 10mm shorter. Oh.. while you are doing this you might as well

revalve the forks....

Shortening the forks and shock will likely cost more than buying just the

koubalink but you have the added benefit of getting the suspension revalved

which will give you a wonderful return worth well more than the monetary

figure of the work.

FYI.. I lowered by BRP forks by 30mm and shock by 10mm and have yet to

bottom the bike out. Well, I should add that I am running .60kg/mm fork

springs and a 16.1kg/mm shock spring so this isn't quite apples and apples.

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