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Mobil 1 15W-50.

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I have read every bit of info possible I think. I not only think that this will work for both sides of the CRF "engine and tranny," but I think it will be better than Honda brand oil. Anyone see differently before I just go for it. And ya I know this is just another oil discussion. I already use Valvoline durablend in the tranny, I stand by it working better than honda. Just nervous about the engine. Heard good stuff about Mobil 1 15W-50

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15w-50 should work fine i havevbeen using mobil 1 race oil that is 0w-30 with no problems this is not your walmart shelf energy saving oil.

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You guys want a seriously low-resistance race oil, try Maxima 0w-5. It's some scary thin sh_t. I tried it in my race bike, but changed it after one race, 'cuz I don't like wondering about my motor holding together while doing 150mph. Oil looked fine after I changed it, and I know of others that use it religiously (they change it after every race weekend), but I don't like spinning 16krpm with thoughts of impending lunar orbit in my head. :cry:

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I've used Mobil 1 15w-50 as well as Amsoil 15w-50, both worked fine. Mobil one gets dark real fast compared to other oils. I am now using Castrol Synthetic 5w-50 in the engine side and Honda tranny oil for the trans.

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Ditto what cowpoo said

double ditto

ditto and walmart has the big jug's at around 20.00.

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ya that $20 5qt jug is calling my name just wanted to make sure it would work fine. Figured it would. I prefer that Valvoline blend over Honda blend for Tranny, but I think I will switch all over to the Mobil 1.

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Question for all the Mobil 1 users: I've seen/read about using the "red cap" stuff. Last time I was in Costco and I wanted to get a bunch, they had green cap stuff and something else, blue, I think. It just wasn't the red cap. Is it the same???? as Red???? thanks guys :cry:

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I would recommned using 80wt gear oil in the tranny and 20w40 motor oil with additives for the engine oil.

Honda has separated the transmission and the motor, like your car or truck. Your car or truck has different oil for the transmission and the motor. If you ride a Honda, the same applies.

It is very important to change your oil often, about every 3 to 5 rides. The oil capacities are small, therefore they dirty and lose their viscosity quickly.

I use Belray 80 wt gear oil for my transmission (similar to a car/truck with a standard transmission).

I use Honda 20w40 motor oil for the engine compartment.

These oils are not too expensive, thus I can afford to change them often. Changing your oil often is more important than using expensive oil and doing fewer oil changes.

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The main reason they seperated the oils is to prevent cross contamination of engine oil by the clutch materials. Being able to run two different oils is a secondary benefit, but not a neccesity.

Even the manual says you can run the same oil in both sides.

As far as the green cap or blue cap Mobil-1 oils...what you really are looking for is the API service label, found on the back of the bottle. It should NOT say "energy conserving"...it has additives that may cause clutch slippage. And again, contrary to popular belief, synthetic oil is NOT...NOT...NOT...more "slippery" than conventional oil. It DOES however, have much higher film strength.

The "slippery" belief comes from the additive packages in energy conserving oils, those DO make an oil "slicker", hence, the energy conserving moniker...

"More slippery" is good for metal parts like tranny gears, but NOT good for fiber based wet clutches. :cry:

P.S.-80w "gear oil" is rated on a different method than engine oil. 80w90 gear oil is basically the same thickness as a 30w engine oil.

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Ive been running the Mobile one in the engine side and valvoline 20-50 in the trans.

I just changed my oil this weekend and was surprised a little. This is about the 5th or sixth time Ive changed out the valvoline, and this time it came out see-through golden colored still! And the engine oil wasnt even that dark either when you consider how dark Mobile One is to start with. Ive got a engine clock and it blinks at me at 5 hours. Thats when I change everything. I was really surprised this time at the tranny side...made me feel all warm an fuzzy inside....Ive never seen the trans oil come out that clean before. And its seems like the dinosaur oil works better in the trans than the mobile one did. Not that the clutch would slip or anything, it just seems to shift smoother and the clutch is more consistant. And since my tire is pretty much done, ive been a bad boy lately about riding the rear brake and slipping the clutch at the same time off corners....I really expected the trans oil to come out like mud...

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so you run that in both sides? I just want to make sure before I buy some and try it.

I have run Mobile 1 15w-50 in BOTH sides for 2 years and have had no problems. :cry: :cry:

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Ditto.....absolutely no problems. Even have the original clutch.....and haven't broken open the engine to check the valves. Still starts like a charm....at least until 2 days ago when I traded it in for the 05.

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I dont run the red cap in the tranny side due to it being FULL SYNTHETIC and may be slipery enough to make the clutch slip. I use Torco MTF in the tranny

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I dont run the red cap in the tranny side due to it being FULL SYNTHETIC and may be slipery enough to make the clutch slip. I use Torco MTF in the tranny

MYTH....the full synthetic has nothing to do with "slippery"....the additive package is what determines "slipperiness". The NON energy conserving red cap 15w50 Mobil-1 does NOT have the same additive package as say, the 10w30.

Synthetic or Conventional

What about synthetic vs. semi-synthetic vs. "dino" oils? All motor oils have several special additives formulated into the oil to protect from corrosion and wear, plus detergents to keep combustion products in the oil. For normal (non-extreme) use, "dino" oils protect as well as the synthetic oils. However, if you plan to race, run at extremely high temperatures, or plan to extend oil-change intervals, or simply want the best, then a synthetic or semi-synthetic may be your best choice.

http://www.yft.org/tex_vfr/tech/oil.htm

Another good read: http://www.smartsynthetics.com/articles/amsoil_synthetics_slipperiness_and_wet_clutches.htm

We have also received reports of motorcycle shops telling customers that synthetics are so “slippery” as compared to petroleum oils (which simply do not reduce friction as well) that wet clutch packs in their motorcycle transmission and even their automatic transmission of their cars and trucks will slip when using “slippery synthetics” even if there are no friction modifiers present. This is absolutely not true.

Oh and another great read with great info... http://www.ducatimeccanica.com/oil.html

Bottom Line

It could appear from this data, then, that there is no validity to the constantly-used argument that motorcycle-specific oils provide superior lubrication to automotive oils when used in a motorcycle. If the viscosity drop is the only criterion, then there is certainly no reason to spend the extra money on oil specifically designed for motorcycles. There does, however, appear to be a legitimate argument for using synthetic and synthetic-blend oils over the petroleum based products.

...Just educating the masses... :cry:

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