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where to buy a 1/4" drive torque wrench ?

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I know you have to be really careful torquing camshaft clamp bolts but where can you buy a 1/4" drive torque wrench ?

Cheers Shane.

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search ebay for "PROTO torque wrench" or "SNAP-ON torque wrench".

note that *some* 3/8" drive wrenches are available in low torque ranges, e.g. this SNAP-ON 30-200 in-lbs model:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=42265&item=4329384966&rd=1

for best accuracy, you are looking for a wrench where 86.4 in-lbs [7.2 ft-lbs] is approximately in the middle of the adjustment range, and not all the way at one end.

for example,

a wrench with 10-90 in-lbs range --> NOT GOOD!

a wrench with 80-400 in-lbs range --> NOT GOOD!

a wrench with 30-200 in-lbs range --> GOOD!

jim aka the wrooster

'01 wr250f

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I just went to sears and got some craftsman torque wrenches. They have the different ranges mentioned in the above post. Work fine for me and they are only $40-$50.

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Got my 1/4" torque wrench from Harbor Frieght. Works pretty good. Plus, it's easy on the wallet.

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The point behind buying a 1/4" drive torque wrench is to get accurate, repeatable torque values on all the cam cap bolts. Saving a few $ by shopping at Harbor Freight may be false economy. Some folks even have their good torque wrenches re-calibrated every few years, make sure they store them at zero, bring 'em in from the cold, store 'em in their case, and avoid dropping them.

When you're talking about working on these (racing) engines, it's important enough to do it right. Don't be afraid to spend $200 or so on a good torque wrench. It's much cheaper than a top end rebuild brought on because a head got warped, a cam bearing got galled, or a bolt got twisted off.

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I bought an SK 1/4 torque wrench for 180.00.

I had a cheap Craftsman that was never accurate. So I got to buy twice. Not much savings there.

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I was at my local Yamaha shop a few days ago, they had a fairly new crotch rocket bike sitting there leaking oil out the drain bolt. The service manager said the guy was going on and on about how careful he was torquing the drain bolt when it ended up stripped. "What kind of torque wrench were you using?", he asked the guy. "A Husky" (Home Depot) was the response. Ya get what you pay for. For working on engine parts, I wouldn't skimp on a torque wrench.

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I've been using the sears click-click for 3+ years on these motors. Not a single failure from torque. It's more than worth the $50 for it.

(I really should check my spelling before posting.)

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once in a while, you have to ask yourself,

"do i need $59 worth of bike graphics that will be scratched up and/or worn off in 10 rides, or should i put that towards a tool that will last me a lifetime"???

jim aka the wrooster

'01 wr250f

president and founding member, The Coalition Against Expensive Bike Graphics

http://losdos.dyndns.org:8080/public/riding/02aug2004-sixdays/IMG_1248_sm.jpg

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Check your HF torque wrench against a Snap-on or even a Craftsman over the middle two thirds of the range. After checking toward the high limit, see if it still zeros. I think you'll be surprised. If you aren't, I will be. HF is a good place to buy things you'll use occasionally, but not for precision tools.

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Man dude, spend some of that cash and buy a gas cap would you? You are really killing the aura.

if ya look just to the right of the scotts steering stablizer you'll see the cap up on the bars, hanging off its vent tube. i went to get the gas can from the truck and the staff photographer (errr, actually my wife) snapped the photo. much later, when i finally saw the pic on my PC i was like "what moron would leave his cap open like that?" and then i realized it was my bike... doh!

jim aka the wrooster

'01 wr250f

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