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Switching to WR250, hows the low end after reasonble mods and jetting

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Hey, It's time for a trail specific bike. I've been riding my 98 CR250 on trails and it although isn't too bad, I'm ready to go blue.

Anyway I've been wanting a 4 Stroke MX bike for years and now figure instead I'll get a 4 stroke bike for trails since I've moved away from MX tracks, so sad.

I've briefly ridden an 01 WR426 and an 03 WR250. I really liked the low end grunt of the 426 but it was noticeably heavy coming from a 2 smoke. The WR250 was nice and had plenty of HP on top but I wasn't ecstatic about the low end torque. Other than a different exhaust tip it was stock, including jetting and I rode it at 7,000'. How much low end will it gain with some free mods and better jetting? I'm going to keep it reasonably quiet.

Also, I stalled it twice on a very tight trail which is much of what I encounter in South Western Colorado. Boy electric start rules on 4 strokes however I wasn't used to the engine braking. Should I have been in first or second? I think I was in second to trying to get away from the engine braking and keep my momentum up. I guess I just want to hear that I will adapt to the 4 stroke from others who've made the switch because I felt slow. Otherwise the KTM 300 EXC looks like the only 2 stroke alternative I'd consider.

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The YZ cam actually increases low end as well as everywhere else. You can't let the rpm's drop as low as on a 2 smoker. I came off YZ/WR 2 smokes and had to get used to that. An auto clutch will work for you also to keep from stalling. I would think a stock YZ or aftermarket exhaust will help also.

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The stock WR is pretty doggy. I feel like I have made significant gains in low end power by adding the GYT-R tip, Power Now, and the JD jetting kit. You can also buy pipes that are tuned for better low end, such as FMF's PowerBomb header. I came off of large bore XR's with stump pulling low end. My WR doesn't have that kind of torque, but with the free mods, and those listed above, it is more than adequate. I am very happy with it, and won't be going back to the XR. The WR is very responsive, with snap wheelies from idle thorugh 3rd gear.

You'll get used to the engine braking when you make a better adjustment to riding the 4 stroke. Pick a lower gear, and refine your throttle control.

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I bought a WR250 and the thing is a dog stock. I did all the free modifications and it goes much better. I use a ProMoto baffle so the bike is quiet. I put in a 262 kit from Eric Gorr which made a big difference. It pulls harder from top to bottom.

I was playing air flow engineer last night. I had opened up the airbox but it still felt kind of choked up. I opened the forward edge of the grab hole in the side plate. I felt a noticable difference on the anus dyno.

I guess what they say about a blind pig finding a few acorns is true.

I love riding the WR now. It feels like a completely different bike.

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I have the '03 WR250 with the YZ cam, JDJetting, Powernow and FMF PC4 pipe. While the pipe is a bit loud, the other mods are perfect for offroad. I have no experience with the Q but I would definitely buy that one next time.

My buddy rides an '04 YZ250F in the woods with me. The first time that we traded bikes he did not want to trade back. He went on and on about how much low end power it had. I noticed that his bike reved faster, felt a bit lighter and was more tuned to the high rpm range.

I'm from :cry: so there isn't much to do from the free mod side, but I'd suggest the YZ cam $120, PN $100, and pipe $200. Also, if you don't want the JD Jetting kit, a good alternative is to change the jetting to YZ specs (don't forget about the PAJ) and start from there. My bike ran very strong on the YZ jetting last year.

I just had the bike on a spectacular mountain ride last weekend from 4,000 - 8,000 ft and I was known as the chugger going up the hills. I passed a 300 EXC :cry: going up through the trees that was being ridden by a better rider than I :cry: It may have something to do with the Rekluse clutch that I have but it goes to show you that it has enough low end power to get the job done.

I have been considering going to a 450EXC but this weekend's ride left me wanting no more power and as such I believe I'll be on an '05 WR250 next year. I'll be nice to just move my goodies over without having to buy them all new again. :cry:

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I use a ProMoto baffle so the bike is quiet.

I was playing air flow engineer last night. I had opened up the airbox but it still felt kind of choked up. I opened the forward edge of the grab hole in the side plate. I felt a noticable difference on the anus dyno.

Beezer, how did you open up the forward edge of the grab hole? Dremel? How much did you take off?

I wasn't totally happy with how my WR performed after putting the ProMoto Billet insert in so I drilled a few of the holes all the way through (the "decorative" holes around the main port). It's snappier now and still meets the 96 +/- 3 dB requirements.

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Thanks for all the reasurance. I know the WR250 makes sense. I just wasn't excited when I rode one, so I'm happy to hear that it can be throughly woken up. I'll plan on the free mods, a YZF cam, PowerNow and some kind of insert. It always seems to me that pipes are over priced for the benefit they provide. What's the JD jetting about and whats the 'paj' note about?

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The JD Jetting can be purchased from the TT store. It is special needles for the carb. It also comes with instructions for temp and elevation. I found that I just read the instructions, put in the jets suggested and it worked much better than I could do on my own.

Also the PAJ is the Pilot Air Jet. It needs to be changed to match the YZ spec if you block the ACV valve. It leans out the idle circuit. :cry:

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Coming off of an XR250, the low end has been something I have tried hard to improve on my WR250F. The powernow and the correct jetting to eliminate the bog did help a lot. I have to say though that the Dr. D pipe I installed recently has made a big difference much more so than I could have hoped for in the low and mid range. Worth considering IMHO.

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I used tin snips and a die grinder. Die grinder is just an air powered dremel tool. The bike seems to run fine through water crossings.

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A lot of people say that if you are going to a YZF cam, you need to consider a better-breathing pipe. I'm like you, and think that buying an aftermarket pipe takes a helluva lot of moola. I just purchased a stock YZF pipe online for $50. It breathes better than the WRF pipe, is lighter and is much cheaper that going aftermarket. Now I've got enough money left over for the YZF cam, will get more benefits form it than if I was running the stock WRF pipe.

PS I was pretty lukewarm on the WRF after my dealership test ride. You ain't seen nothin' yet.

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