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Neutral Switch removal question

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Let me apologize ahead of time if this has been covered. I know this free mod has been talked to death and I did both a search and read the FAQ along with all the links about it but didn't actually ever see the answer to what I'm wondering. I have a Zip-Ty cover on the way, the FAQ says remove the blue wire the switch's only connection to the CDI, I located that no problem, but my question is where do the other 3-4 wires coming out of the neutral switch lead and how are they removed?

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They are dead end wires. If you remove the wire harness covering they simply end about half way up. They do not go anywhere. My thinking is that this part was adapted from another model, probably a street bike and they simply cut the wires during installation.

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awesome thanks... yea the FAQ seemed to make clear sense but those extra wires really threw me off

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I read about a vortex ignition that you caould have different maps for different gears, eg traction mode in 1st for starts and power mode in the other gears. You would need those wires for something like this to work.

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Exactly. There are four leaving the switch, and the manual shows them continuing to a four-wire connector, but only the light blue is continued in the harness beyond that.

So instead of removing the wire from the harness up top, couldnt you go the extra step to remove it out of the harness below so you dont have a wire flappin around?

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You could remove the light blue that connects to the neutral switch by cutting it all the way back to the CDI box. But the connector is up behind the radiators anyway, so you wouldn't be eliminating that much extra, anyway. The four wires are included in the harness that is attached to the switch, but not the chassis side of the connector. Once the switch is off, 90% of the associated wiring is gone with it.

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I just removed the switch and the lower harness. I then taped up the connector on the harness that is hardwired to the CDI. Not much reason to remove the wire all the way back to the CDI. I did pull it up and tape it the wires under the frame rail rather than leave it hanging down by the motor.

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The only advantage is in the weight saved, since the switch only operates in neutral.

Sure. But most of the weight is in the switch itself and the lower part of harness. There is miniscule weight to be save by cutting the other connector and the upper part of the harness off the CDI.

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The only advantage is in the weight saved, since the switch only operates in neutral.

Sure. But most of the weight is in the switch itself and the lower part of harness. There is miniscule weight to be save by cutting the other connector and the upper part of the harness off the CDI.

Not only that, it's a lot more difficult to reverse that procedure, should you or a future owner wish to.

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:excuseme:if you want to spend wasted money on an anodized piece of aluminum that cant even be seen, have at it,weight? what weight?the mod does absolutely nothing and should be pulled from the faq forum,sorry to pop anyones bubble 😢

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I just removed the neutral switch on my brother's 426 and put the trick blue cover (can barely see it) but only because the last one broke (don't ask!)

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hey knuckle heads, the reason to get rid of the switch is because they fail quite often then the bike wont start.  Knuckle heads!

Yes I am the man!

I am not a newbie.  Have been racing since 6, im 55 now.  Been on here since the beginning! lol.

 

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lol, your making me feel even older! I love this place. Im not riding these days because both knees are gone.  One has been replaced and it still sucks.  Had a stroke, suposed to be dead, but I woke up, and everything works.  Except the brain! lol. Man, I always thought Id be like Dick Man.  When he was on his way out, his wife used to push his wheel chair over to his bsa and hed get on and haul ass! What a special person. 

 

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