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2003 DRZ400-S: Installed my new Eibach 5.7 shock spring yesterday. Twice. :cry::lol: I figured while I was down there, might as well disassemble all the cushion levers, clean, and repack with grease. The needle bearings were pretty dry, but looked amazingly good for getting such infrequent servicings. Probably due to good, snug fitting seals. Anyway, put everything back together, and figured I'd put the adjuster rings back at the stock positions just as a starting point for setting sag. Began to run down the lower ring till it seated, had previously measured how far to go....but now what :cry:, it won't fully seat on top of the spring :cry: Maybe the spring's slightly cocked, so I tap it using a small block of wood, hoping it will pop into the seat. Not happening :cry: Ran the lower ring down some more. Maybe more pressure is needed. :lol: Wrong. Only one thing left to do...throw a temper tantrum, take everything apart, :lol: :lol: and see what the hell's going on. Did so: the problem & solution: I didn't know that one end of the spring opening is about a sixteenth of an inch larger than the other :lol: I don't recall reading that in any posts, in any manuals, and the shock came without instructions...only limits of liability, of course. When I turned it around and slid it back up into the shock shaft, it seated on the lower ring collar with ease. :cry: I was relieved, but angry at myself for not giving closer scrutiny in the first place.

Soooo, today I move to the front, and will install the new 48kg/mm Race Tech springs, along with fresh Mobile 1 ATF fork oil.

Am coming off stock springs and settings, front & rear. I ride some rocky rough terraine and hope these new combatants will help my Z track straighter with less bouncing. Or....was the stock, plush ride a blessing...and now I'm about to lose the fillings in my teeth. All trial & error.

If anyone was able to read through this entire post :lol: and has solid input for sag & clicker settings...I'm all ears. I'm 200 lbs. before gear. :lol:

SSR :lol:

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According to racetech.com the 5.7 should be good for his size.

SSR: There's tons of posts on here about sag and clicker settings. I'd suggest searching for sag or race sage in this forum and look for posts from burned (TT admin).

peace-

johnny t

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While I would agree with the 5.7 (trail riding) Ya have to take the spring recommendations for the suspension sites with a grain of salt.. Their recommendations are to be used with that suspensions companies valving.. Different companies, take a different approach in valving, and thus will recommend different spring rates.

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Yea, the Race Tech site is where I got the 5.7 rate from in the first place. Never questioned it, especially when reading posts from others with their weight as mine, and choosing 5.7 & 5.8 rates.

Well....it's in. So I'm gonna ride it and hope for the best. All rugged trail and scramble riding.

Your right & I know, TriTip, about all the posts on clicker settings. That request sorta just spilled out all by itself.

TT has tons of info on the suspension settings.

Thanks for looking in on me.

SSR :cry:

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Hey Bronc, Always appreciate words from you.

Get this: Besides the 5.7 spring that's in, this afternoon I installed the Race Tech 48 kg/mm fork springs. That rate I too got from the Race Tech site for my weight and style of riding.

I measured and compared the new springs against the stockers I took out...and they were exactly the same. Coil wind, wire diameter, and free length. Actually the free length of the Race Tech's were 1/16" shorter. I didn't think that mattered.(I hope)

Put everything in & back together just as if I was changing the oil on the stockers. 400S manual calls for oil level of 129mm from the top..done.

However, when each fork was entirely reassembled, I shook it, and heard a little rattling inside. Trust me, I didn't leave anything loose, so I guess it's the spring just banging from side to side inside the tube.

Does that sound right to you???

Put them in the clamps, front wheel back on, etc., etc. and they seem to work ok, just not as bouncy as the stockers.

Does this story sound like the job was performed satisfactorily, or can that rattle possibly mean the springs need to shimmed, spacered, for more preload??

When on the bike, the static weight of the bike itself should provide some preload. Preload before forward motion anyway.

What do ya think??

SSR :cry:

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The springs may rattle a bit when the fork leg is extended all the way.. When you measured the oil level... it was with the spring out, and the fork tube all the way down??? Yes??? Pumped the cartridge a bunch of times, slowly to remove all the air from the cartridge? Did you change the valving? or just the springs?

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I'm 200 as well

I just turned mine over to George at ESP Suspension, I couldnt be happier, totally different ride than stock, they put the .45 springs 130mm HP5 oil, 12 and 12 clicks in the front but they totally rebuild the stack and have their own theory on oil weight etc, it rides like a bitchin BMW though. I can hear a spring rattle if I hit something hard, they say it is normal. I would have done the values at the same time or at least sent it somewhere for that. Nice thing about ESP is they will do it all for you have you sit on the bike and they dial in the sag etc. IF you go to someone like them though just be real honest about how you drive. My friend said he liked to wail, he wound up with a very stiff bike.

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Measured the oil with the spring out: Yes

Pumped the cartdridge to remove any air: Yes

Didn't touch the valving. Only changed the springs.

Now....

When I measured the oil level, was it with the tube all the way down??? Ugh...no. I think it was with the tube all the way up, like this:

Manual called for 710 ml of oil, with 129 air gap from level to upper lip.

I put in 700 ml, cause there's always a little left inside the fork unless ya hang them upside down for an hour.

With the fork tube all the way down...the oil level and the dampening rod are very close to the top lip. If I recall, about an 1/2 inch from the lip.

If I started to pump the rod then to get all the air out, oil would spill out all over the place.

Stay with me now:

I attach a 14" narrow wooden dowel to the end of the dampening rod..zip tie it around the top threads. Using my dowel extension, then I can pull the fork tube up slowly and still hold onto the dampening rod, and pump the air out, being careful never to pull up too high as to allow air to enter. After a few pumps.. and I can see the air escaping down in the tube, I know the air is out now and the aluminum push rod will be driven up under pressure if you move the dampening rod too quickly.

So I slowly pull up the tube, and the dampening rod too, making sure the push rod, needle, and spring, stay fully submerged to keep any air from entering.

Now I still have the 700-710 ml of oil in side, I believe all the air is pumped out, and I use my Race Tech oil remover to pull out a little oil to leave 129 mm of air gap up to the lip...with the fork tube still up.

Because I use this "dowel system" to be able to raise the fork tube, but keep the dampening rod submerged, it should work fine...I think.

I'v done it this way on my stockers whenever I changed the oil, and everything always worked fine. Meaning I never felt, saw, or heard any unusual effects.

Only this time, I heard this rattle when I shook each final assembled tube in my hand, before sliding it up into the triple clamps.

Whew...was I able to convey the proceedure, or did I give ya a headache?

Would love to hear your response !!

SSR :cry:

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What can I tell ya,, If it works for you,, umm, ok..

But the procedure for measuring oil is to remove the spring, fully compress the inner fork tube, and measure from the oil surface to the top of the fork tube.... Any other method,, and your on your own for specs :cry:

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Bronco, you were right to keep your distance from my home made remedy.

Let me just ask you this: With the spring out, and one puts in the 700-710 ml. of oil as called for, and with the fork tube fully compressed, as I said, the oil level is fairly close to the top lip already. If I now draw out the amount oil to allow for the called for air gap of 129mm, that's a lot of oil to remove! Why put in 700 ml. in the first place, if your just going to suck a large portion out?

When "you" have a fork on the bench, spring out, tube fully compressed (dropped down) and you put in the recommended amount of oil....isn't your level now very close to the top lip? ....before even pumping the dampening rod to remove any air.

I don't want to hassle ya, cause you're a big help to so many members, but if you feel like a little more chat, I'm paying close attention. If not, I'll continue to study and eventually figure things out.

If it's not pouring tomorrow, I may even go up to coal mine territory in Pa. and try the new ride out.

Also lowered the gearing some while working on the back end, so to have a little better control on steep rock slides, especially when the poor son of a gun in front of you stops in mid-climb...a no-no.

This ought to be some interesting ride. :cry: I'll probably come home with whiplash.

Thanks, B78.

steve in Maryland.

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if you set the level with the fork extended.there is way to much oil in them period.

you dont pour in the fluid all at one time.you pour some in,bleed the cartridge and repeat.once you have all the air out and oil somewhere near the correct level you use the oil level tool to set the final level.

doing this with the fork extended is wrong.

the capacity spec for the fork is for a completely dissassemlbed fork thats dry.no matter how much you try unless you take them apart there is still a bunch of oil in them.

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