Clutch Fix Help

I know you guys are going to hate me for asking this stupid question but Ive been looking into doing the washer fix and reading up. But I cannot figure out where the washers go exactly. It says they go inside the spring? Do they physically fit inside spring? I dont understand what you mean by that. Do you simply Put the lock washer on the clutch bolt and slip the bolt back in the clutch with the spring or put the lock washer in the where the spring goes in the clutch, drop the spring in and then bolt it back up? :cry:

Hah, well a response by next weekend would be good. :cry: I have my washers just waiting for the correct way to put them in.


The washers fit Inside the springs, just pull the bolt out, slip the washer on it and re-install. mike the washers to make sure they are all the same thickness. Then re-adjust the cluch


I think he's trying to clarify what is meant by "inside the spring". I think this means that the washer is installed first, then the spring and bolt. I don't think the washer goes up inside the spring. By "inside" they mean "nearer to the bike centerline". Kind of like a "ball inside" doesn't mean inside the batter, it just means closer.

Barton, the 6mm washer O.D. is smaller than the I.D. of the spring. You can't install the washer to the "inside" (centerline of the bike) of the spring, or "under" it, because the springs fit over the basket towers. The "fix" is by essence increasing the towers lenght by aprox 0.06 inches, giving more room for clearance or travel.

I was also a bit confused untill I took the cover off and pulled the first bolt out. But then I'm always confused :cry:

Yamahax25, I just saw you said "lock" washer, make sure you use a flat (cut) washer, and all 5 the same thicknes. did you read up on it here?

OH NO !! I just did the link "thing" :cry:


Where the washers go make all the sense in the world ONCE you have the clutch appart. In the pressure plate where the springs go there are 5 holes but in the middle of the hole is a "tower." The large washer on the spring bolt gets tightened up against that tower and the springs sits in the recess between the tower and the hole and the washer on the bolt sets the "preload" on the spring. Again I can't explain it well but when you have the cluthc appart it all makes sense. The washer goes on the bolt so that it gets tightened between the OEM washer and the tower. The "fix" washer is not big enough to contact the spring so it essentually increases the hieght of the tower thus reducing the preload on the spring.


Okay, So lets see if I have this straight. The 6mm bolt goes in-between the stock washer and the bolt. Simple enough after I read it a couple times. :cry:

Ah, I see. I've never had to do the fix, so I just assumed the washer was being used to compress the spring a little, increasing the preload. That's what I get for assuming. Thanks for straightening me out guys.


Okay, So lets see if I have this straight. The 6mm bolt goes in-between the stock washer and the bolt. Simple enough after I read it a couple times.

Close. The 6 mm WASHER goes between the stock washer and the top of the "tower" inside the spring cavity.


I got it, Yeah it pretty much explains itself when you open'r up. Do I need to adjust my clutch cable?It felt a little grabby when I rode it around the block, It didn't pull anymore, Im not sure if the washer fixed it for good because the fresh oil might killed the pull also. But If that doesn't work Ill throw the lock washers in there, there a little more thicker.

Brand new clutch springs + washers did it for me. Washers alone did not. When I put my old springs next to the new ones they were shorter. Metal fatigue had shortened them. And mine is an 03. Get new springs.

Yes you will typically have to adjust the cable. The manual gives a good description.

When you pull in the clutch with the bike in gear, do your YZF's clutch's grab? Mine when I have the clutch in, bike in gear, engine off, the wheel will not spin because the clutch is grabbing. :cry:

They are grabbier when they are cold. As they warm up, the clutch releases a bit easier.

Being a new bike though, you'll probably have to adjust your clutch down at the case to get it to release properly. You can fine tune it at the handlebar, but I had to coarse-adjust mine at the case when it was new. Never needed any fixes after that.

Well, grabbing is fine, it's just what when the lever is in all the way, the clutch is still engaged a bit. You can have your foot down and all when it's in gear and the lever in, but it wont move, but when you shift from neitral to first, if you dont give the bike gas, it stalls...

Sorta get my crappy english :cry:

HOw much Do new springs cost typically?

I think new springs cost around $5 each. I tried the washer fix, yz spring fix, and drilling holes in the clutch basket to no avail. Then I decided to pony-up and get replacement clutch plates. After replacing my clutch plates and friction discs with a MOOSE brand kit, my clutch works better than ever. PERFECT. My brother did the same with his WR and his is flawless as well. My advice is to do the same instead of trying to nickel and dime it to death. :cry:

Some of us dont have that kinda cash to pony out for new plates. And my clutch cant have more than 120 hours on it. Should still be good. If that doesn't work, Ill try the lock washers and if not that Ill replace the springs. I'd much rather pay .79 for some washers than whatever it is for new plates. :cry:

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