Submerged Bike Need Advise

HONDA TESTAMENT - Need advise!

A group of friends and I rode Wayne National Forest here in Ohio this past weekend and what looked to be a small unobtrusive puddle turned out to be a 5 1/2 foot deep canyon... In short I completely submerged my bike, swam out of the "LAKE" and managed to pull it out (w/ assistance of a friend). After that I turned the key and it started right up!

I suggest not attempting this on your own XR but what a testament to the XR's resiliency to adverse conditions.

Question: Where should I begin to look for mechanical problems with this situation? What advise does everyone recommend in beginning the preventative maintenance?

Air Box? Carbs? Fuel bowls?

Help because I know it somethings got to go wrong...

There's no end to what could be affected. Cables, bearings etc etc etc... Maybe you should just wait and see...?

see....i told ya to stick to cow tipping and lawn tractor racing. Just be glad it wasnt saltwater or the entire bike would be locked up by now and thats no joke.

Here's what I'd do if my bike was submerged...

First, do not start it up anymore until you've at least changed your oil. Make sure to lube all the cables real good and the small pivoting points such as levers, rear brake, etc. Lube the steering head bearings with a good waterproof grease along with the swingarm pivot and shock linkage. While your working on the steering head bearings, you may want to consider changing the fork oil too. I'd also remove the wheels and lube the bearings and make sure the axles look good. If there's any rust or corrosion at all on the axles, then you can take it off with something like emery cloth, then clean it real good and lube them before you put them back in. I'd also pull my carb apart which is pretty quick to do and spray it real good inside with WD40. Pull the air filter and clean it real good and inspect the air box while you're at it. Make sure to completely drain the gas tank and put fresh gas in it. Remove the chain and clean it good in kerosense, then lube it like you normally would.

I'd definitely drain all the oil and change the oil filter. Check the screen in the downspout and clean it real good. Remove the stator case (left case) and make sure it's dry and clean inside. I'd also remove the right side case where the clutch is to get out all that oil and any water that may be inside. Then start her up and run her for a short while...maybe 20 miles and change the oil again. Inspect the oil and make sure it looks normal and not milky. At this point, I'd probably drain the entire cooling system which isn't too hard to do and pour in a fresh charge of the Honda coolant (50/50) or buy the Orange Cap anti-freeze from your local autoparts store (mix 50/50 unless it's premixed), which is much less expensive than Honda's stuff and just as good. Then I'd ride the bike about 100 miles and change the oil again just to be on the safe side. Your oil should look perfectly normal by now - hopefully.

From there you should be fine and your bike should be happy.

I hope I didn't leave anything out cause I'm typing this way too fast so I can get to my kids little league games.

I think Qadsan pretty much covered it all. The only thing I might add, is to check all of your electrical connections and maybe hit them with some WD-40. If you really want to make sure about your bike, remove every bolt and nut and apply a little bit of anti-seize. I have a fairly expensive mountain bike that I learned the hard way about riding in the rain and mud. A little preventitive maintenance can sure save you a lot of headaches and bucks down the road.

Now I have had a buddy or two, that has done the same thing to their bikes, and did practically nothing about it, but they are the types that can afford a new bike every couple of years or so...

Strange things can happen when you do the unexpected to motors. One of the guys from a 4X4 club I belong to, rolled his 2001 Jeep TJ...we got it uprighted in a matter of minutes, and when he went to start the engine, it bent one of the rods. Come to find out, that cylinder had completely filled with oil, and when he cranked it, something had to give...go figure. Anyway, a very costly mistake indeed.

Thanks, especially qadsan, for all of your fast responses...

This was exactly the type of "recipe" I needed to guide me... All I have to say it that this is going to suck but still be fun tearing everything down...

It kind of reminds me of the movie FULL METAL JACKET when that dude is saying "everything oiled, every action smooth, blah blah blah..." I think you get my drift...

I'll keep everyone posted to how things go...

Thanks again and what a great forum for information...

95 XR650L

10,000 miles bought with 6,000

Too many parts replaced to list...

Think nasdaq got it all... here are some tips from the rainy Northwest...

Price a 500-gal vat of WD-40 to submerge the bike in (Just kidding, but it is, after all, Water Displacing formula #40, seriously) - I spray darn near my whole bike with it after I wash it.

The other thing I've done is fill the bearings and coat the axles with synthetic waterproof grease. I ran into Sea-Doo grease from Bombardier - pricey at $15. a tube, but that tube ought to last a loooooong time. Stickiest stuff I've ever seen.

Steering head bearings aren't bad to do, certainly both axles and all the rear suspension parts, if you can. All this may not need to be done if you did it recently, but it sure can't hurt to look. And it sure can hurt to not look... my neighbor never looked at his swingarm bolt until two years after buying his bike (new). He was lucky to get it out after a two-hour battle :)

Oh yes, the carb ought to be cleaned too...

Enjoy! mac

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