How long will an S run when stator is bad?

We are leaving on our yearly bike trip Thurs. and my 02 drz400s has decided not to charge. Same as last year, but it was the regulator last year. This year it is the stator. If I cannot get it replaced before I leave then I will but another battery and charge them overnight (worst case).

What do you guys think? :cry:

Reduce the electrical load so only the ignition is operating (no lights or instruments) and I would expect to get 4 hrs run time out of the battery. You are going to want to limit starts to as few as possible. This is just a guess as I do not know the actual current draw of the ignition. The battery is about 6 amp hr and you will probably get 3 or 4 useful amp hrs out of it at a low draw. You could try an experiment. Put an amp meter in the circuit and measure current draw with only the ignition operating. That would give you a better idea of how long the battery will last. Or just try it on a ride before you leave on your trip to get some useful data.

my voltage reg.went bad on my'04 s model. system was not charging. if i got an hour out of a good fully charged battery running all lights & speedo i was lucky. in other words, if it's not charging it's not going to last long.

Thanks, Is there a quick way to disconnect the instruments and the tail light? I already unplugged the headlight?

otherwise you end up push starting a lot. i made a small pair of jumper cables that fit in my fender bag, so if i cant push start i can get a jump start from my dads bike

otherwise you end up push starting a lot. i made a small pair of jumper cables that fit in my fender bag, so if i cant push start i can get a jump start from my dads bike

Why would ever have to jump start this bike? When would you not be able to push start? This bike can not be that heavy. The reason I ask is I push started a 900 lb. Honda Goldwing multplie times a day for the better part of a summer.

I can think of lots of times, try this one, your in a sand wash, steap walls on each side, now bump start that baby, :cry:

You want to start out on the trail with a wounded bike? My only recomendation is don't do it. Overnight the correct one off a buddies bike...beg, borrow...just don't steal mine.

The idea you are nurturing is a BAD idea!

I have the same problem right now

well as of this weekend I got one hr ride made it home but I could tell it was going starter sluggish

I would not plan on a 4 hour trip

you wont make it


My experience has been that it will run just long enough so that you are as far from camp as possible when the juice runs out completely. I almost got to spend the night in a very, very lonely part of the So Cal desert. It took my buddy over 4 hours to get to camp and drive the truck to where I was. I had started collecting firewood already, just in case he wasn't going to show up.

Of course, this was AFTER it was supposedly fixed. Damn dealer mechanic. They did manage to fix it after that, but I sure gave them hell when I showed up on that Monday morning!

fix it first or don't ride.. depending on your problem, you are asking to spend both lots of money and do lots of walking.... a shorted stator will try to eat the regulator too, a pissy regulator will try to F@# with the cdi box... voltage surges will try to bake your intruments, blow your lights, melt harness wiring.. worse case scenario you may ruin over $1000 worth of parts........ and walk home

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By Markl5557
      I am currently running 10w 40 Belray non synthetic and I want to switch to full synthetic amsoil .... is it ok to switch from regular to synthetic? I have read it’s not safe to go from synthetic to regular can someone explain if it’s safe to go from regular to synthetic!? Thanks !
    • By RockyMtnMark
      Good Morning,
        Last night I measured my valve clearances for the very first time (I know...) on my DRZ400S.  It's a 2002 and I've owned is since 2011.  I bought it with t's got about 15,000 miles on it and most of it's miles these days are on dirt.
      Intake specs are 0.10-0.20 mm.  Exhaust specs are 0.20-0.30
      My intake valve clearances are in spec, forgot to write them down.  My exhaust valve clearances are between 0.1778 and 0.2032 which is slightly out of spec.  They are no more than 25 microns out of spec.  My question is, do I really need to shim these?  Will this kind of out-of-spec cause performance, mechanical, or other losses?  As far as I can tell, I'd have to buy a whole shim kit which is like $80.  Thanks!
    • By Zach440
      Selling my 2009 Drz400sm. Been a great bike but it’s time to let go . Not looking for any trades - spring is just around the corner ! Located in northern Virginia . Cash only $4200- willing to negotiate I have some wolfman luggage options available as well. Love to make a package deal for someone 

      -11640 miles . Mild off-road never wrecked.
      -Oil / filter changed every 1500 miles
      -New did chain , brake pads , front sprocket at 10400 miles .
      - valves checked and within spec at 10,000
      - jetted with JD kit and 3x3 mod
      -doubletake mirrors
      -waterproof usb wired and located next to Speedo
      - drc large foot pegs , barkbusters with integrated turn signals . 12oclocklabs tall delete with upgraded circuit board
      -thumpertalk case savers
      -sergeant seat (amazing) and Clarke 3.9 tank (190mile range )
      - fog lights wired in so they shut off with high beams
      -Shorai lithium battery
      -led headlight

      - stock gas tank and seat will be included

      The bike is dirty in photos and I apologize my water is currently disabled outside due to freezing temps . Radiator guards and skid plate NOT included but can be for some extra $$. Rear tire could be replaced but front is fine .
    • By tplayer100
      Currently have a 2000 drz400s work stock suspension. From my understanding this is the worst suspension the drz ever came with without even rebound damping adjustment. Therefore I'm looking for a upgrade. I'm seeing three approaches to take. First being a newer year s model suspension with dampening adjustment. A SM model USD forks and triple tree or some USD forks and triple tree from a rmz. So if you were going to upgrade what direction would you go. I currently ride off-road mostly but I do have some 17s for on road with as well so have to keep that in mind. Thanks
    • By drzvfr
      I did the fix last night and took some pics and notes to make this easy on people that haven't done it and want more detail. Please chime in if you think I've missed something.
      Required Tools:
      Set of Allen wrenches
      #3 Phillips screwdriver
      small flat head screwdriver
      8 & 10 mm sockets
      13 mm open end wrench (I needed this to remove my skid plate)
      snap ring pliers
      gasket scraper
      compressed air
      Required Parts:
      New clutch cover gasket, Suzuki Part # 11482-29F00
      Tube or can of RTV sealant
      Oil filter and oil (if you plan to change the oil)
      1. Remove your skid plate (if you have one). I have a Tonn's skid plate and it was in the way.
      2. Remove right side radiator cover.
      3. Unbolt the rear brake lever. This will require removing a cotter pin on the backside of the bolt, and then the bolt itself. I was able to swing the lever far enough out of the way without completely removing it from the bike (see pic).

      4. Drain the coolant. This requires removing the radiator cap and the small bolt on the water pump, which has an aluminum washer on it. I rocked the bike from side to side to get most of the coolant out of the bike.
      5. The oil, two options here. You can either drain the oil and remove the oil filter or you can do what I did which is lay the bike on its left side to keep the oil from pouring out of the engine when you remove the clutch cover. I still removed the oil filter so I could clean the clutch cover with brake clean after scraping the old gasket off.
      6. Loosen the hose clamp on the coolant hose that attaches to the top of the water pump and fold the hose out of the way.
      7. Remove the water pump cover and the clutch cover by removing the bolts holding them on. Note that some of the bolts are of different sizes so keep track of which hole you pulled them from. Also, not all of the bolts need be removed, see the pic below.

      8. Remove the old gasket from the clutch cover and/or the engine with your gasket scraper. I then cleaned the clutch cover with brake cleaner as it was fairly oily.
      9. With your snap ring pliers, remove the snap ring from the plastic gear on the clutch cover seen here:

      10. Remove the plastic gear.
      11. Push out the metal pin and remove the washer underneath as seen here:

      12. With a screwdriver or whatever your preferred tool, remove the “E” clip as seen here:

      13. After removing the “E” clip push the water pump shaft out of the clutch cover.
      14. You will now have the part in your hand that needs fixing. Remove the porcelain gasket at the bottom of the shaft by blowing it with compressed air. Don’t not pry it with a screwdriver as it could damage the gasket. Mine was stuck fairly well so I sprayed some WD-40 on first to loosen it up.
      15. If you used WD-40 clean the shaft and gasket with some brake cleaner and then apply the RTV sealant to this area (I reused this pic as its perfect):

      16. Push the gasket back down flush on the shaft wiping away any excess RTV that may flow out.
      17. Reassemble the shaft into the clutch cover in reverse order as listed in steps 9-13.
      18. Place your new clutch cover gasket on the engine and then place the cover back onto the bike.
      19. Put the bolts back into the clutch and water pump cover and tighten equally. I could not find a torque setting for these in the manual so I snugged them evenly.
      20. Put the oil filter or a new one in the bike and put the oil filter cover back on.
      21. Re-attach the brake lever and tighten the bolt to 21 ft lbs. Be sure to install a new cotter pin on the backside of the bolt.
      22. If you drained your oil, refill the crankcase with the proper amount. If you didn’t drain the oil be sure you have enough in the crankcase from oil lost from removing the clutch cover.
      23. Let bike sit for 24 hours to let the RTV set up before adding coolant.
      24. Re-attach the coolant hose to the top of the water pump and tighten the hose clamp.
      25. Fill the radiator with a “Silicate Free” anti-freeze and put the radiator cap back on and tighten the radiator cap screw.
      26. Put the radiator cover and your skid plate back on the bike.
      27. You are done, go ride!
      This post has been promoted to a wiki