Some of you are using maybe the X-11 Michelin Trials Competition tires for trail riding on non-Trials bikes. Seems that many people are still experimenting with tire pressures and such.. Maybe some of you have some tips that are more than just opinions based upon rumors or theories. All of my experience is from a Trials Bike point of view, but let's remember that these tires were designed for that bike. Now, how far can we stray from the intended use and pressures before the tire becomes a bad choice? I don't know. But I have written about this tire before based upon my Trials experience, mostly to help tone down some of the theories that I believe are not based upon real world experience. Seriously, I would like to hear from the guys that have experimented with this tire and have tried running as low as we do on the Trials bikes. If you have never run the tire as low as we do, I would encourage you to try the next time the trail gets tight, loose and difficult and you don't see the need to 'fly'. Following is a copy of a long answer to a post in one of the current threads that I think maybe could use some dedicated discussion from the Trail and Enduro riders that know and use this tire. I hope this helps someone in making the choice to use or even *not* use this tire. However, if you can use this tire and use it correctly, I believe the trails you ride will last much longer.. Just ask Loynz and Old Bones about the lack of damage the three of us did on our last ride to Salmon la Sac. It was great to look back and see the ground intact with only a light waffle print that easily disappeared with a foot print or even just light rain, even in the most dificult of places and steep climbs. Sorry for the long read. Here's the copy: " Quote: Jeremy, you may have a very valid point. I do run my tires at 13 or 14 pounds which has worked great all summer long. Now that I am riding in mud it may help considerably if I drop down to 9 or 10 pounds. I do need to experiment a bit. I believe the other riders who had trials tires were running at lower tire pressures. Thank you, I will give it a whirl. Close Quote WOW!!! 10 pounds?!? If we (Trials Riders) pump up to 6 pounds, the tire loses most of it's traction qualities. In the mud, all the Trials guys including me drop to 3 pounds in the rear. Now when I say that, everyone comes back with flat predictions. Yes, most of our riding is at slower speeds but that is just because we are usually riding in very tight stuff. These bikes can fly too and we do when the trails open up. Granted, these bikes are more maneuverable, but much of that has to do with the rider keeping an eye out for stuff in the trail to avoid and I like riding fast trails as if I were skiing a slalom course. Next come back is: Well, the Trials bike is MUCH lighter... Yes, but not so much that you need to run the tire 6 to 10 PSI higher than we do. My bike weighs 150 Pounds ready to ride. I weigh at least 240 with all of my gear and back pack.. 390 Pounds total and using 4 PSI in the tire.. My older Gas Gas weighs 170 pounds ready to ride... still 4 PSI. And the Bultacos we used to ride in the late 70's were 214 pounds ready to ride... STILL 4 psi in the rear tire. But honestly, (no joking) thousands of these tires are subjected to incredible thrashing in the World Championships at 4 PSI with very few flats and most of those are sidewall cuts. This is a *Radial* Tire. Very different in the way the sidewall flexes and the tread lays down like a snowmobile track. It's not stable at high speeds, but if you are a rider that loves trail riding at the suggested speed by the USFS, then you should drop the pressure... WAAAAY down if you have the rim locks to keep the tire from creeping. If you have a tubeless rim, that's even better. All modern Trials bikes are using the Tubeless X11 Trials Tire and Sealed rear wheel. The wheel has a small bead inside that keeps the tire bead in place. We use no rim locks. the rim lock actually caused most of the flats by chaffing the tube or by pinching the tube if you happen to hit a rock right where the rim lock is. When the pressure is low enough, you can press a finger into the tread and watch the knobs close up as if trying to pinch your finger. This pinching action is important. It also squeezes the mud out of the tread and allows it to fall out when the knobs open up. At these lower pressures, the tire will shape to the ground and even twist side to side without deflecting the bike such as on the edge of ruts or on a side-hill. They "trap" the small loose ball-bearing stuff under the tread instead of skipping around on top of them. The more weight you put on them, the more they grip. Just watch the top Trials Riders jumping up and down in slippery spots.. that can more than double their weight on the tire for the short burst of traction to get him through a slippery or loose spot. Experiment: carry a new tube, tire pump, low pressure guage and tire irons with you and drop the pressure when you are at the tight, slippery stuff, loose rock and roots. Go down to at LEAST 5 PSI. Ride it that way for at least 30 minutes and keep your speed down to a cruise on the easy stuff. When the tough stuff is over, break out the pump and go back up to maybe 7 or 8 PSI. Don't expect this tire to be as good on the road as a dedicated street or enduro tire. It's a RADIAL, remember? It will squirm around a little and it resists sliding... not good if you want to break the rear loose, even at higher pressures. But if you ride your bike like a tractor and then cruise on the easier stuff, it will be great!! I've run them for 30 years now at 4 PSI.. Only 2 flats and that was when we used tubes. We deal with slow leaks sometimes from the spoke seals but even when flat, the tire works. Carry a pump! Oh yes, remember to *NOT* tighten that little lock nut on the valve stem. Back it off or remove it. Then check the valve stem often to see if the stem starts to tip from straight up. A couple of degrees is ok. If it tips up to 20 or 30 degrees, it's time to let the air out, break the tire bead and yank on the tire to slip it around till the stem is vertical again. Quite often, it's *NOT* the tire slipping on the rim. At low pressures as the tire squirms, the inner tube can "walk" around inside the tire. So there ya go. X11 Michelin Tire tips from a Trials Rider that has used them for 30 years in competition through the Expert Class to trail riding in the Cascades and Sierras. Disclaimer: Your experience may vary, use at your own risk. Or don't use at all.. (I like having the advantage and it makes me look like a better rider than I am)"