Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

Help with Electrical problem

Recommended Posts

2000 DRZ-E. Turn on switch and no lights or electric start. Without touching switch, bike will kick start and run. Headlight very weak. Turn off switch and turn back on, same story. After bike has run for a while, turn off, turn back on, headlight comes on strong and engine starts.

Could this be a problem with the ignition switch? Battery tests at 12 volts and headlight will stay on just fine with the motor is off after the initial problem.

I had noticed that, at times, the ignition switch would not work and would have to repeatedly switch on and off to get the bike to start.

Thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Last time I checked my battery after a ride it was 13+ volts, but been a while. If right at 12volts, maybe yours is going.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's what I was thinking, sounds like it's time to get a new battery. Haven't heard much about the switch going bad.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Do you have more then just the ignition key on your key ring? I have a replaced a lot of switches because people hang all their keys of the ring and it kills the switches.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Check the fuse from the battery, mine blew, same symptoms as you. Carry a spare just in case. I think it is a 10A spade fuse.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's a weak battery. If it were the fuse it would never start with the e-start.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's a weak battery. If it were the fuse it would never start with the e-start.

G'day 10guy, I stand corrected, should have read right through the post... Read the first symptoms and got all excited. :cry: is my face red?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The battery is 12VDC, you only get more then that if the bike is running.

According to my experience, healthy battery gives something like 12,8V when engine is not running and there is no consumption.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A brand new properly charged 12v battery is supposed to read 13.1v or so. According to Yuasa an open circuit battery (that is unconnected) should stabilize at 12.7 volts or higher.

Mike -

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A healthy battery with no drain should read 13+ volts. If you have one reading 12 then you won't have enough juice to start the bike.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Update: Started the bike fine last night, 3 hours later. This morning I turned on the ignition and the headlight came on full bright. Didn't try to start because of the hour but have no doubt that it would.

Still suspect a faulty connection in the ignition switch. Has anyone else experienced these symptoms?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Is it the original battery? If it is, I would start by replacing it since after 4 years it needs it anyway.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • By Bignerd0100100
      Hey all, 
      I'm looking at buying a 2004 Suzuki DRZ400EK or at least I think it's an EK according to Vin lookup websites, but it does not appear to have a kickstarter. I was told the bike was owned by a motorcycle dealer and that it has a current green sticker, and a California license plate but has not been registered for the streets since 2011. I want this as a dual sport but am not clear if the fact that it already has a plate means I am good to register it or if maybe they took away the ability to register it after it was plated, California loves to do that kind of stuff. Since the bike was owned by a dealer I would think they were up on the latest regulations in California, but who knows. Can anyone add any insight as to what I should look for on the bike itself like the carburetor, model numbers etc? Or do I just try my luck at the DMV?
    • By smokey9lives
      Hi,
      I have a 2003 DRZ (actually a KLX400) and the head tube bearings are shot.  I ordered a new set to install but I'm wondering if anyone has any recommendations on other parts I should replace while I have the front disassembled.  I was thinking about new rubber fork protectors, but are there other things that wear out on the DRZ front ends that you can only get to when disassambled?
      I also broke off a replacement key that I got for the steering lock.  I must have been made of cheap pot-metal.  Should I just remove the whole lock mechanism?
      Any tips or tricks for getting the old bearings out and the new ones in would be welcome!
      Thanks!
    • By antonyp
      Hey Guys,
      I recently bought a 2003 DRZ400S and thought it would be a good idea to check the valves clearance etc . I timed the engine on TDC with the magneto mark aligned as per the manual but I find the cam timing slightly odd. The arrows pointing upward are on the 1st and 15th pin as they should but with the magneto timing mark aligned they are not perfectly straight. Same goes for the arrows that should be parallel to the cylinder head casing. Is this normal or should they be absolutely perfect ?
       

×