Help with Electrical problem

2000 DRZ-E. Turn on switch and no lights or electric start. Without touching switch, bike will kick start and run. Headlight very weak. Turn off switch and turn back on, same story. After bike has run for a while, turn off, turn back on, headlight comes on strong and engine starts.

Could this be a problem with the ignition switch? Battery tests at 12 volts and headlight will stay on just fine with the motor is off after the initial problem.

I had noticed that, at times, the ignition switch would not work and would have to repeatedly switch on and off to get the bike to start.

Thanks.

Last time I checked my battery after a ride it was 13+ volts, but been a while. If right at 12volts, maybe yours is going.

That's what I was thinking, sounds like it's time to get a new battery. Haven't heard much about the switch going bad.

Do you have more then just the ignition key on your key ring? I have a replaced a lot of switches because people hang all their keys of the ring and it kills the switches.

Check the fuse from the battery, mine blew, same symptoms as you. Carry a spare just in case. I think it is a 10A spade fuse.

The battery is 12VDC, you only get more then that if the bike is running.

It's a weak battery. If it were the fuse it would never start with the e-start.

It sure could be, but I put my money on a drain somewhere.

It's a weak battery. If it were the fuse it would never start with the e-start.

G'day 10guy, I stand corrected, should have read right through the post... Read the first symptoms and got all excited. :cry: is my face red?

The battery is 12VDC, you only get more then that if the bike is running.

According to my experience, healthy battery gives something like 12,8V when engine is not running and there is no consumption.

A brand new properly charged 12v battery is supposed to read 13.1v or so. According to Yuasa an open circuit battery (that is unconnected) should stabilize at 12.7 volts or higher.

Mike -

A healthy battery with no drain should read 13+ volts. If you have one reading 12 then you won't have enough juice to start the bike.

Update: Started the bike fine last night, 3 hours later. This morning I turned on the ignition and the headlight came on full bright. Didn't try to start because of the hour but have no doubt that it would.

Still suspect a faulty connection in the ignition switch. Has anyone else experienced these symptoms?

Is it the original battery? If it is, I would start by replacing it since after 4 years it needs it anyway.

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