So I Do the washer fix...

I took my bike out today. Ran fine the other day after the fix but I had my doubts because of the oil change. So when I fire it up and hit first it lurches again, and started pulling with the clutch pulled in all the way. Real bummer... So, Who has some Ideas to what it might be?? :cry: I did not have a torque wrench that can measure that low of a torque so I did it very carefully. I didn't tighten them super tight, they were within 1 ft-lb of spec. I didn't take my clutch basket off to check my plates, But my clutch didn't smell like bbq like my friends 450 recently did. Should I try new clutch springs or give the lock-washers a shot??

Oh I havn't adjusted my clutch either, but it feels fine where its at. And I can't roll the bike with the gear in very easily either.

the washers only helped the wr's not the yz's as I understand it. I've seen guys say moose clutch plates cure it.

Where can you get them At? I can get some new clutch springs for 8 bucks. Any other Ideas on a solution?

TT carries moose products, but I dont see them on the clutch page. I would call the TT number and see if they can get them.

I'd probably get it locally, Ive got a buddy at a parts shop he can get me a good deal. Hopefully there in parts direct catalog or White brothers. I might just order some OEM. What exactly is causing the grabbing? The friction plates no longer being smooth? I really dont think its burnt but Im curious to how it solves the problem. Maybe it is...I guess Overtorqing the bolts would cause it to grab wouldn't it but even If I did overtorque them it couldn't of been more than 1 ft-lb

I went through the same thing you are going through a couple months ago. While the washer mod did help the "creeping" some, I was still having a problem starting in gear. I installed a Hinson clutch basket and Moose plates and fibers and all is good now. The stock basket is junk. I'am not saying it won't be ok for a while but it sure will wear out quick. You will see if you take it apart. This work done and a starting block and now I'am getting 1st kick starts. Good luck.

From what I understand it's because the friction plates dont get good oil coverage with the factory basket. The oem plates seem to be affected by it, but apparently the moose plates dont.

A lot of the aftermarket baskets slot the fingers for better oil flow thru the basket.

So its not neccesarly the plates themselves, Its the basket not giving the plates good oil coverage eh? I dont really want to spend $200 on a new clutch basket and plates right now, but its probably better to replace everything at once.

I did not have a torque wrench that can measure that low of a torque so I did it very carefully.

...

Oh I havn't adjusted my clutch either, ...

Let's see ... what could be wrong? :cry: I'd look at these two things first. I was able to adjust mine out. Cost: $0.00

It'd sure be a lot cheaper if this was it, don't you think?

Hehe, Yeah I'll try adjusting it at the track tommorow. I'm not sure if I want to drill my clutch boss. Im looking into some moose plates, Ive read up on the links at the bottom of the Clutch page. They seem to do the trick, Ill grab some new springs with them also. These are the guys that make them I think DP Brakes correct me If Im wrong is it actually "moose" that makes them? :cry: Or maybe its these moose ???? Does TT carry them?

I also found this link the second post down talked about removing the inner spring and the other ring with it and said it was running good. How does taking out that and your plates sitting directly on the boss fix that.

Ohh and Im going to check my springs and plates after tommorows ride. Im positive my plates aren't burnt, Ill be sure to check spring specs cause there cheap to replace.

Okay, I got down to the track. Checked my clutch and it was within specs. Im going to take out the washers today and check the friction plates etc. Ill report back with some pictures.

So today I opened my bike back up and took the washers out and inspected everything. And everything looks to be fine. Plates dont show any signs of being burnt, nor do the steel plates. Basket still looks good too. The only thing that concerned me was when I had the clutch pulled in a space about the width of another friction plate and steel plate would show. Now I know that it needs room, but is that how much space there should be when the clutch is pulled in. Check out the pictures. Another thing, whats the purpose in having the two rings inside the basket behind all those plates? Give me your thoughts. Ive got the picture of the plates with the clutch in and out.

The picture are on the big side for qualtity. Sorry.

Smallgap1.th.jpg

NOgap1.th.jpg

Clutchbasket.jpg

clutchbasket3.jpg

frictionplate.jpg

i had the same problem with an old cr. what i did was remove the clutch basket and file the part of the basket where the tabs from the plates hit. if you look at the pictures you will see that they have worn notches in the basket. use a fine file, the metal is soft and you want it to be smooth. i did this and my clutch action was back to normal. it a cheap fix.

...remove the clutch basket and file the part of the basket where the tabs from the plates hit.

The problem with this fix is that unless you are using a milling machine and an indexing head, it is impossible to remove the same amount of material from each tab. This means that some tabs will take more load than others and these will wear faster, leading you right back to where you are now, only faster. If the tabs really are worn (I can't tell from the pics), then you should get a new clutch basket. I hear Hinson baskets are the best, and allow better oil circulation.

like i said, a cheap fix. not a solution. sometimes if your strapped for cash and wanna ride, you gotta do what you can. i know i would much rather ride my bike than a couch any day of the week.

:cry:

Haha,

Very true Thump... Yeah, everything looked fine. Im going to ride it for now. Ill probably get some Moose friction plates. Thanks for all the input guys.

I see you have 13/47 gearing, do you use your clutch a lot? that could why your clutch is frying. Just a suggestion, most people are running 13/49 or even 13/50. :cry: :cry:

No, I dont use it that much, Just use it to shift, I dont feather it. And Thats wrong, I have a 13/49 :cry:. I know the plates aren't burnt.

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