XR650L - Brakes - When to replace, How & with What?

My 2003 w/ 4,000 miles (dirt and street)front brakes are starting to squeek when I brake and my rear brakes don't seem too effective. Are there indicaters on the front brakes that howl when it's time to replace them? Or do you just watch the thickness of them? Are they hard to replace(How do you do it)? What brand of pads should I get and where should I buy them, Thanks

squeaking can usually be traced to dust on the rotor/pad rubbing surfaces, ... unless, your pads are worn completely down to where the metal surfaces are rubbing ... that will wear out your rotors $$$ ... eyeball your pads, dont let them get thinner than 1/8" or so ... 4000 miles is not much, I would doubt if they are already worn, but that depends on the rider ... my rear brakes on my 2001 XR650L aren't that impressive, either, but they may just be a bit glazed, I haven't really looked them over in awhile ... I don't use brakes much, I'm pretty easy on them ... when I buy pads, I will probably buy either the stock Honda, or the aftermarket EBC pads ... be aware, the more expensive, better stopping pads, and racing compound pads are usually made with materials that, while they stop better, are VERY hard on your rotors ... I like cheap, soft pads, and replace them as needed ...

I replace mine with EBC. If you have never done it, it takes less than 10 minutes. There is a screw and a clip that have to be removed to pull them off. Once loosened and new ones turned in all you have to do is push out on the brake pads to spread them so you can put it on the rotor. This can be achieved by gently pushing a wide screwdriver inbetween pads to push them out.

Sqweeky does not mean bad. Like said above, you have to check the pad thickness. I went through my stock pads on this bike in just under 2000 miles. So it all depends on how your riding it.

Most pads I've seen have a vertical groove in the friction material. When you only have about 1/16" of groove depth left, its time for new.

My front brake squeaks too, but it has new pads on a new Braking rotor. It didnt seem impressive either, but I found that squeezing the lever harder fixed that(I was used to stopping a 219lb CR250).

I just recently replaced my pads with about 4,500 miles on my bike they were almost down to nothing when I took the old one off and looked at them :cry:. I ride street and the trails so thats probally why. Also make sure after you replace your pads that you dont get too crazy cause its about 250 mile break in period and your brakes may not be quite as powerful especailly if your rotor is warped.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By Jeremy Evans
      I just bought a 2012 xr650l and it starts and runs great until about 4000 rpm give or take (I’m guessing) it feels like it spits and pukes. Also when releasing the throttle the exhaust pops and hiccups. I am calling the dealership to ask if they are willing to fix the problem as I just purchased from them yesterday but I am curious as to what the problem could be in case they do not offer to help for my “as is” purchase. I have read a couple other topics on here that talk about the vacuum lines being hooked up to an air cut diaphram but I don’t know what that is. The smog delete has been done on this bike as well as a slip on dg exhaust and the side cover has a bunch of holes drilled in it exposing the air filter. The battery has also been relocated. My question is what jetting should I have at 2000 feet? I am planning on opening up the carb to see what the idle jet and main jet are and if they were even changed from stock. Also if someone knows about the air cut being hooked up to vacuum and can supply pictures that would be very helpful. I know that the smog block off kits just plug the vacuum holes and the air cut usually gets disconnected. Thanks. 

    • By Chowell
      Cargo rack for Honda XR650l.
      New condition. No scratches or damage. New $199 
      See manufacturers website for detail.
      https://cycleracks.com/ProductDetail/tabid/87/ProductID/1/Default.aspx
    • By Pcolamotorhead
      engine parts and misc. parts. Airbox, Electronics, Brake parts.
    • By Pcolamotorhead
      Parting out almost an entire bike. Frame is gone, CDI box, and Wheels, Gas Tank, Headlight & Front number plate. Complete unassembled engine with 9611 miles on it. 90 pounds of compression at cranking speed. According to hondaprokevin.com this is what it should have.  Checked the compression with 3 different gauges.   Valve clearance is good which indicates no cam or rocker arm wear. Oil did not look too bad that came out of it. Corbin seat, Big tube header pipe with Super trap muffler, and just about all the other parts.  Shoot me a message with what you are looking for and I will be happy to take pics and send them to you along with a price. All items are buyer pays the shipping.  Also have some 1996 Honda XR600R parts. Engine cases, Electronics, Etc.  $850 for the motor and you pay shipping, Starter motor not included.