FCR installation

Well, I finally did it. Had the bike for two weeks and it now is the home for the FCR39.

Talk about a [@#$%&*!]!!! That was the most difficult thing that I have ever done to a bike... That carb does not like to go in and out of place...even the stock did not want to come out, until I pulled the subframe (top and bottom) back a half inch or so. Installing the FCR was a major pain, as the airbox side bellhousing was at least 3-4 mm more in diamteter than the stock carb, so getting it seated was a royal pain. The only way that I could seat it was to remove the intake "pipe and clamps" as well as unscrew the intake adaptor from the carb. Only then did I have the space to wedge the carb into place and crank down on the clamp. Then I screwed on the engine side mouth, then the intake pipe and clamp, then I just had to wrestle the carb into place. Had to get a bit creative at times to do that as well. I easily spent an hour trying to route the throttle cables so that they operated smoothly, I must love to waste time...

While I was at it, I cut the top of the airbox and tossed on the M4 Stainless pipe with Ti silencer, and it is anything but silent. (I swear it must be louder than my CRF which also has an M4 Ti silencer) Tried to sneak out of the neighborhood for a quick test ride...the bike stalled at every stop, but it pulls like a train. It no longer has that "soft" power like before. Third will power up with a well timed roll-on of the throttle (stcck gearing) but the stock bike was not that far off if I recall, but I do know that I could NOT roll third up to the balance point without using the clutch. I was hoping that I would be able to get 4th to stand up, but it is not quite there...it feels close, and possibly if I removed the headlight, steel bars for fatbars, and taller triple clamps, I believe that I could probably do 4th gear standups (with the clutch of course).

I also removed the side stand switch, and connected the clutch switch lines in the headlight area (bypassing the clutch safety feature).

I got my 17s yesterday as well, but no brakes...apparently they are on backorder. They are going to look great, so I cannot wait.

I also recieved my Tag 47 tooth sprocket, but am a bit disappointed as I specifically asked for gold, and got an old looking silver jobber -guess that will have to be returned. Also get a 14 tooth countershaft, but that was supposed to be the ultralight, and it isn't...of course.

If anyone knows where I can get a 45 or 46 rear, please let me know. I am hoping to run the stock 15-45 for the street, and have the dirt stuff using 14-45 or 46, depending if I can use the same chain length or not.

Also, if anyone knows how to vent this carb, please feel free to offer up advice. I have no idea how many vents this carb should have, so I have none right now, and looking at the catalog sent by CPW, the closest carb is the FCR MX and it does not have vent fittings in the same places as my carb. Maybe I am just tired?

Well that is it for my update today.


:DLOL 1am and you been working on the bike all evening and want to blast the neighbors. I can see it now. Then still wired up your back in the house banging out questions in your qwest for the perfect ride. " I love it " I got to have a couple cups of java to get my other eye open but I will tell ya it was no fun on my E carb ether.

Three turns out on the fuel screw on the bottom of the carb should help the idle stall and then just set the idle stop screw to your preference.

Glad your holding out for the gold sprocket it will look nice. I don't think the lighter front sproket will make that much difference.

I looked in my service manual with one eye and couldn't find anything on vent hoses but I know I have a handfull hanging down and a couple clamps to hold them in place.

They drop down through the rear shock hole.

Hopefully your having dreams of wheelies in your sleep right now. Good luck. Thanks for the deatailed post. I felt like I was there with ya. :cry:

To say that I lost track of time would be an understatement. I started when there was still plenty of light out thinking that I might finish right around dark. That was not to happen.

I did notice a pair of nipples on either side of the carb above the intake (airbox side) that did not look quite big (long) enough to fit up vent tubes, but I am thinking that they are in fact vent line fittings....

Thanks for the update on the metering screw. I hope that I can reach that MOFO without moving the carb, because I DO NOT want to do that again. If I do, I will have to get the screw that everyone talks about. And now I think that I know why...

Thanks for the response. It rained all day today, and I had "honey-do" lists to complete and family to visit. Hopefully tomorrow will be nice and I can get some time to fiddle with the bike.

Did I mention that the M4 pipe was LOUD?!?


where did the cabr come from and what jetting does it have.

It was CPW and it has a 162 main, 40 pilot, EMM in 3rd (middle), 200 Air, Not sure on the turns of the fuel screw..

Still raining today, but I will take the time to check the fuel screw and test again.

The bike is def a different animal now, I can say that for sure. I was actually a little bit amazed that it started right off...


ok,well that main is rich for sure with a E needle.

try this as a base set up and report.

155 main jet

200 main air jet

emm needle

4th clip

40 pilot

3/4 pilot air screw

2 turn fuel screw

What needle to you recommend? I do not recall seeing a smaller needle in my kit, even though I am 100% sure that I asked for one.

I am thinking that getting to the needle just may be easier than the mainjet...there is NOT much room in there. In fact, I am pretty pissed off as I cannot adjust my fuel screw, and will have to remove the carb. I will try to rotate it, but if the install nite is any indication, if I try to rotate it, the airbox side is guaranteed to pop out, and then I will have to spend an untold amount of repeating what I went through the other nite. The bike simply does NOT like having the carb toyed with. Actually, it did not like having the stock carb replaced with an FCR.

Do anyone know which extended fuel screw I need to order?


the emm needle works ok at low altitudes.

you shouldnt be having that trouble with the carb fit.i can have a fcr in out of a drz in less than 15 minutes. :cry:

sounds like you have the wrong bell mouth.

Well, it looks like Burned just may have found the issue...

According to CPW, there is only one size bellmouth for the DRZ bikes, E or S that they send out. It is 62mm, which does not do me a lot of good as I am not inclined to just go in for a measurement at this time.

I thought that I recalled reading that even on the airbox side, there were differences between the E and S? If so, can I purchase a bellmouth for an S someplace? I do know that I did NOT like to installing those allens as there was not much room in there. I had to thread them by hand as tight as I could, then try to get an allen on there.

So my questions:

Can I get an S bellmouth someplace, and is the OD larger or smaller than the E?

Does the lengthened Fuel screw for the E bike work on the CPW FCR?

What is the recommended needle for this carb, if the EMM is just OK?



Yes..SUDCO has the bellmouth adapter to fit the carb to the airbox rubber intake for the "S". $50 ... Or you can buy the E rubber airbox connector (I think that option is slightly more expensive). Either way there is very little difference...

Any chance that you know if the S bellmouth OD is smaller or larger than the E? This might just be it...


the adapter for the FCR to S airbox is larger in outside diameter than a stock E bellmouth.

The overall length of FCR/S adapter vs FCR/E bell mouth is also slightly different.. with the S adapter version being slightly shorter.

Either setup should not be a huge pain to install or remove.. other that the stock plastic cover for the throttle cables.. Which is a one time pain,,, right before it hits the trash can..

You got me there...plastic cover on the throttle cables?

Speaking of throttle cables, no, nevermind. I finally got mine to work relatively well.


Well I finally got the FCR installed with the recommeded settings:

PAS 5/8 out

Fuel 2 turns

155 MJ

40 Pilot

200 MAJ

Just got the bike to idle...I say just as I do not have much left on the idle adjustment to turn. Is there another idle adjust method for this carb?

Naturally, jsut as I get this all back together, it starts raining! Figures...so I took it out jsut to warm it up, and upon return is when I played with getting it to idle.

No I cannot wait to see how she will run. (other than loud, which I already know)


I installed my FCR the other night, from what I have read in the past about FCR and all the trouble I was expecting the worst. I must of had a good day or something, no problems here after I completely removed the airbox boot then it was easy. I ordered the FCR with the jetting that Burned has be preaching (for over a year) and it runs great. It took me longer to route the new E cables and remove any binding then to install the FCR. With the right tools the FCR is a lot easer to work with then the CV carb. My JD kit and adjustable air screw should be here this week.

Thinks Mr Burned for the starting point, you saved me an a$$ load of work :cry: :cry: :lol::cry: :cry: :cry:

good deal.

alot of the initial trouble people have with the fcr are becuase of install errors,assuming the carb has the right jetting,worn out carb form other bikes etc.

the fcr is really simple to tune. :cry:

good deal.

alot of the initial trouble people have with the fcr are becuase of install errors,assuming the carb has the right jetting,worn out carb form other bikes etc.

Ya know,, I really dont need you poking fun at me at every chance you get........ :cry::lol::cry: :cry: :cry: :cry:

The man speaks the truth,,,,,, never assume...... Check everything,,,,,,,, eliminate all possible variables,, then jetting is a straight forward process.

dont worry,your not the only one to ever fight a worn out yamaha fcr carb.

i just dealt with one at the shop this week. :cry:

Is there another way to adjust idle, or am I going to have to accept being at the end of the adjustment range?


tke the cap off the carb.you will see a lock nut and srew on the throttle shaft.you can adjust it so you have more range with that screw.

however a 40 pilot jet and 5/8 turn pas is usually rich.that may be cuasing you to have to run your idle speed screw in farther than normal.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now