baffle removal.....

is the a need to re-jet to remove the baffle or can it be re-moved without it..... :cry:

I removed the baffle on mine and rode it for months with out changing jets. I found an improvement by raising the needle one clip position. This was done while baffle was still in place. Improved performance even in stock configuration. This was on a 230, but I presume 150 would benefit from same mods. Removed baffle was a noticable improvement, as was needle clip change !

thanks :cry: :cry:

any other opinions? :cry:

On the obvious next mod........ Airbox inlet removal. If you take this out, you will HAVE to make jetting changes (main), no ifs, ands, or buts. The bike will have a clear performance DECREASE anything above half throttle. It will be too lean. You will HAVE to install a larger main jet.

Amazing as it may seem, These bikes(230's anyway) are running on the main jet after about 1/2 throttle. Because the airbox inlet is restrictive enough, and has been formulated into the jetting, The enrichment comes from the reduced inlet!! Once the airbox inlet is removed, the carb needs a bigger main jet to enrich the circuit/s.

so just taking the baffle out wont decrease any performance in the bike? is this right? :cry:

It should IMPROVE performance noticeably with no other changes. This is my opinion, after completing the same mods.

so the baffle is the black thing in the center right? thats all i take out... dont want to start the bike and watch the exaughst blow! :cry:

If you lok in the stickey, it has pictures on what you need to remove.

doh... i forgot about that... :cry:..... so after u just screw the "screw" back in?

if iam right there should be a hole where the baffle was... right? :cry:

if iam right there should be a hole where the baffle was... right? :cry:

Bingo. Just dont worry about it :cry:

it sounds awsome now! didnt know my bike could ROAR, sounds like a kitten with the baffle in.... My bike sounds so great my next door neighbors complained... :cry:

it sounds awsome now! didnt know my bike could ROAR, sounds like a kitten with the baffle in.... My bike sounds so great my next door neighbors complained... :cry:

They'd hate my yammie then :cry:

After raisng the needle clip, turn your pilot screw out about a 1/2 a turn also.


You may want to check that. I think he should LOWER the clip to RAISE the needle, to richen it up a tad.


You may want to check that. I think he should LOWER the clip to RAISE the needle, to richen it up a tad.

I didnt post anything like that. The only thing I posted was aobut the hole on the exhaust and my yammie being loud.

Dude, there are three things involved here; Air intake, Fuel mixture, and exhaust output.

So, leaving the bike stock, but removing the baffle, won't make much performance difference.

You should do all of the uncorking mods, meaning to de-restrict the intake, jet the carb rich, and open up the exhaust as much as possible. Power will be greatly improved.

You do all that, and the bike will run great, and sound great too.



Like I said, look in the stickey, it will tell you how to.

what sticky are talking about

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By H0ndaHunter
      Hello all,
      I have a 2005 crf230f im wanting to modify my bike as best as possible for a sumo style bike. My first thought was an engine swap.
      Has anyone done an engine swap on this bike before? If noone has what engine would be the best fit to do so?
      The 230cc engine desnt have enough umph to really be a daily driving unless taking backstreets all the way to work so im trying to see what i can do to make it have the umph.
      Some of the mods ive done include the airbox mod, a lighting kit, sprocket change (i believe i have a 42 and 13 but cant rememebr), and a jetting mod where my dad took the stock jets and drilled it out just significantly enough to make her kick as much as she can.
      Im looking at doing handlebar risers, an airbox mod on the right side of the bike for even more airflow, cr500 shock if possible. 
      I am absolutely in love with the turning radius and nimbleness this bike has. I have ridden my dads BRP and my brothers crf450r and they just cant skirt around the world like my bike can so im trying to get the power (hopefully) of a bigger bike in the body of my bike. 
      Im not looking to have to completely tear the bike down to modify the bike, but if need i can make it happen. Before i am forced to modify the frame to accept another engine, are there any straight swaps that can happen? Are there any other performance mods that can be done to get that speed a little higher without sacrificing too much reliability?
    • By JMD984
      I have an 03 CRF150F that has a pretty bad wobble in the front wheel.  It has the OEM rim on it, 19x1.40 w/36 spokes.  For some reason, Honda is REALLY proud of their CRF150F rims, and want $125 for a new one.  However, the same size front rim from an XR/CRF100 or CRF125F are only $25-$30.  I realize that the spoke/nipple sizes are different, but is there any reason I couldn't use an XR100 rim and lace it with CRF150F spokes if I drilled the holes out larger?  Could nipple size be an issue?  Center well depth?
      I'm not looking for weight savings, or bling, just a straight wheel assembly.
      Or, if nobody knows the drop-in capability, I sure could use a lesson in spoked wheel compatability.  Does anyone know a good site for learning what features really matter when trying to swap rims?
      Thanks for the insight in advance.
    • By ccasey75
      Looking for BBR upgrades for 2006 CRF230F including the following:
      Heavy fork springs
      Heavy shock spring
      BBR Triple Clamp
      BBR Linkage
      Shock upgrade
      Let me know if what you have and how much you want!!
    • By Christo6060
      They will fit with some modification I did it on my bike 2007. The 2015 through 17 has an extra mounting hole on the tank and shroud so I cut the threads off an extra mounting screw and superglued it in that hole giving it a more authentic look. Except I didn’t use enough glue on the right side and the screw fell out. I had to use spacers on the front mount. And drill a new hole on the original tank mount but that doesn’t effect the original shrouds mounting. And a new hole on the new shroud. The new shrouds also sat correctly against the tank not affecting the seats look. Pictured is the two shrouds next to each other and the bike with the original shrouds. Also pictured is the listing for the shrouds and I only  spent $30 AUD on the OEM shrouds which were listed at $35 after my offer was accepted. They came with new hardware. And it was well worth it. I hope this post was worth the time😂.

    • By Fisforfun
      SOLVED*** No timing issue, just had trouble lining up TDC  Going to rebuild top end to fix low compression. Thanks for the help TT
      So I bought my 2003 crf230f a few months ago from a friend. The bike has definitely been ridden, and was blowing a little bit of smoke when I bought it so I knew the rings would be toast sooner or later. After a basic tune-up the bike ran really strong and I continued to ride it a few times a week for a couple months with no problems... Until last week when I was riding and it died on me. At the moment when the bike died, I was coasting down a hill so there was no extra stress on the engine, I just noticed the engine shut off- almost like running out of gas.
      From that moment on, the bike would not start so I towed it home and checked the essentials... Air, Fuel, Spark, Compression.
      Air- The new air filter I installed when I bought the bike was already covered in dust, so its possible the piston rings got even more dusted. I cleaned and oiled the filter anyway (the bike wouldn't start with the filter removed).
      Fuel- I recently changed my jetting to Mike Coe specs, and installed a larger pilot jet to eliminate popping on deceleration. The bike ran great with the new jetting and I know the carb is clean. I went ahead and cleaned out the gas tank and fuel lines and cleaned out the carb yet again.
      Spark- Spark plug was white due to running lean before I changed the jetting. Plug turned more of a brown color after jetting, indicating better A/F ratio. Replaced spark plug anyway and can see strong blue spark. Also, gas is making it to the plug.
      Finally did a compression test and had low compression. I adjusted the valves which were a bit out of spec, and saw no improvement. A wet compression test (one tsp oil in plug hole) showed higher compression, but still low, indicating the piston rings are toast. I ordered new rings and top end gaskets and will rebuild the top end next week.
      I was also wondering if I have a timing issue, since the engine at TDC (pic 1) shows the cam sprocket about 30 degrees (in the retarded position?) off from being horizontal with the head, as it should be according to the FSM and Clymer manuals. Also, when cranking the engine CCW by hand, the flywheel tends to spin past TDC and happens to align the cam sprocket perfectly horizontal with the head. Is my timing way off? Also, the flywheel has a || mark (pic 2) near TDC that I used to adjust the valves. Just today when I took the pictures, I noticed a |F mark (pic 4) that usually spins past quickly so I never saw it before. both marks appear close to TDC but the engine always wants to spin to the natural position (pic 5). Where is my true TDC? Manuals only show a |T mark. Are the cam sprocket lines supposed to be horizontal with the head? Maybe it jumped a tooth? I have read the cam chain tensioners are known to fail also.
      Edit: Found the T mark, updated photo near bottom of thread
      Bike died on me, has low compression, going to rebuild top end. See pictures. Could this be a timing issue also? Does anyone know if the lines on the camshaft sprocket are supposed to line up with the horizontal lines on the head? Thanks in advance for the help!
      Pic 1- TDC at ||
      Pic 2- || mark
      Pic 3- TDC at |F
      Pic 4- |F mark
      Pic 5- Engine wants to spin to this position: Cam sprocket lines horizontal with head-
      Let me know what you guys think. Has my timing jumped? I appreciate your help!
      Edit: Finally found the damn "T" mark. Always spins past so I wasn't able to see it before. Updated picture posted near bottom of thread. Timing looks fine so  just going to rebuild top end next week to restore compression