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Valve Adjustment

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Alright guys I need a little help here, I'm currently trying to adjust the valves on my CRF230F and I am lost in the freakin sauce. I have the manual but I'm not entirely sure what it's talking about. This is my first valve job so I'm just now learning. Thanks for the help!

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OK well it took me a few beers but I figured it out. New rule, no working in the garage anymore without drinking first! Well now that I got that done what noises should I be listening for? Turn's out they were hella tight, I backed it down some and it seems to be running better. I stuck my head down next to the engine and listened for anything seeming weird...problem is I'm not sure what weird is.... 😢

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Clicks are bad. Means theyre too tight. If they kinda rattle, they're probably too loose.

I tried adjusting my XR, and it was a nightmare. Less valves is way easier. I just managed to get it right last time.

Just make sure you turn it over a few times and check again.

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I ran in to a related problem when I did the first adjustment on my XR400. The valves were so tight that I had no rocker arm movement at TDC of either stroke. I had to back off the tappet adjustment nut and then cycle the engine to find the desired TDC for adjusting. I think it's a good idea to lock everything down run it through TDC several times and double check your adjustments. The sound you are looking for when they are correctly adjusted is a smooth whiring. I want to get one of those handy dandy external fuel tanks so I can test the motor without having to put it all back together. Good luck. 😢

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I ran in to a related problem when I did the first adjustment on my XR400. The valves were so tight that I had no rocker arm movement at TDC of either stroke. I had to back off the tappet adjustment nut and then cycle the engine to find the desired TDC for adjusting. I think it's a good idea to lock everything down run it through TDC several times and double check your adjustments. The sound you are looking for when they are correctly adjusted is a smooth whiring. I want to get one of those handy dandy external fuel tanks so I can test the motor without having to put it all back together. Good luck. 😢

The valves were so tight I could barely move them at TDC. It sounds kind of like an electric fan so that's good right? Everything seemed to run much better. I adjusted the idle as well but I did it by ear so I'm not sure how close it is. Any advice for the idle?

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Why does one tighten more than the other? I've done 3 adjustements in 300 miles with my new valves. This last time, the right exhaust valve was REALLY tight and all the others were in spec.

Whirring is good. Clicking and clacking is bad.

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I just found out how difficult adjusting valves really is! It seems I got the rear(intake) okay, but the front(exh.) was very hard to see. Guess that's why they call them "feeler guages". Gotta feel it cuz ya can't see it! 😢

I couldn't get the guage in the slot so I backed off the screw about 1/4 turn. I'm still not sure if I got it right. So, if I can't see it, how do I know if it's on the mark?

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I did my XR200. I dont have a wrench that fits very well and made adjusting is a HUGE PAIN IN THE BUTT. WHO put the thing that deep into the head? Argh.

I assume the 230 is similar. All are easily accesible on my 400.

Start it, and if it makes funky noises its off.

1/4 turn is a lot, unless it was way off.

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I just finger tighten it, then back off anywhere from 1/8 to almost a 1/4 turn. Next, I make sure it goes up and down a little, then start it, if it taps, I go in a little more. After doing and XR100 a gazillion times, this pretty much works, but it takes a while to get the feel.

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Here's some weird shlit... To adjust the CRF230's valves I went by the book(FM) like I'm supposed to do. Turned the crank counterclockwise then got the alignment to the "T" mark, and made sure it was on the compression stroke. Well, the rocker arms were still tight. I noticed that when the T mark was aligned with the notch, it was still a little "tight" to move the crankshaft.

So I called a friend over to help. He's got an XR400 and CRF250R. He knows his bikes pretty well. He went thru the FM and everything checked out. With a few "Hmmms" and some more "Hmmms" he decided to turn the socket a tad more. Fwooosh... that's when everything loosened up. The rocker arms moved like they're supposed to.

But, the "T" mark is now about 3/8"-1/2" to the left of the notch. I checked the valves at this point. The intake checked out perfect at .100mm, the exhaust was a little tighter. Adjusted it, now it's right on.

So what I'm guessing, and what Scott agreed on, is you gotta go by "feel" sometimes, and not worry about how close the "mark" is.

Now, I need your input. Did we do the job the right way? Everything sounds nice and smooth. No clatter, no tapping or clicking sounds.

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That happened to me when I did my first 88kit on a fiddy. That's what I thought "wierd". But also, stick a piece of long metal down the spark plug hole so you can see exactly where TDC is. Usually, there a mark at T on the flywheel and somewhere on the case. But sometimes there the F mark. I ran the 88 kit at the F mark and it ran perfect. Whereas when I did it at T, it tapped like no tomorrow.

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You need a few items to make the job easier. 1st an offset 10mm wrench. 2nd a good offset feeler gauge (Baja Designs). 3rd the "B" tappet adjusting wrench. The part # is listed in the service manual but I don't have it handy. This makes it easy to lock down while holding the 3mm adjustment nut in place. The last thing you want to be doing is rounding off the lock nut and possibly dropping pieces of metal in your valve train. Small investment for years of proper service. 😢

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