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Pics of possible blow-by

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Whatcha all think? Do I have a problem? Bear in mind, I haven't done any degreasing for 2000+ miles and the bike has 4300-4400 miles on it. And I ride hard ALOT! Lots of wheelies and lots of throttle pounding!

Excessive blow-by? 😢

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That looks like stuff slung in there by the chain. Before you get too excited...you need to clean it up good...ride for a while keeping in dry areas...and inspect again. I don't think a drip would spread and coat so evenly in all directions.

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It seems to me, if excessive blow-by were to occur, vapor would come out of that tube...not necessarily a drip, but I could be wrong of course making that kind of assumption. 😢

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Yes it would be vapor,, but some of that oil vapor will collect, condense in the tube, then drip.

Bottom line,, Bill is dead on.. Clean the area well,, including the chain, then leave it dry. then go ride.. You could even zipty a small plastic bottle at the end oh the tube,,, see what collects in it over the next few rides.

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Yes...possibly...but doncha think air moving through there would tend to blow the vaper back...not float it forward to coat the coolant bottle as thick as it is?

Your looking at chain sling.

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Bill...chain wax doesn't do that...I don't use oil on the chain...and I let the wax dry before going anywhere...I know it's not chain sling...

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Bill...chain wax doesn't do that...I don't use oil on the chain...and I let the wax dry before going anywhere...I know it's not chain sling...

Budd,,, you came here and ASKED our opinions.. They were freely given...

Take um

Leave um

Or change um to be yours

But if your gona ask,,,,,,be ready to hear what we have to say..It sounds very much like you already know what you want to know,, and just want somebody to tell you your right.. OK,, hang out in here today,, that person will eventually show up,, cus there are lots of folks on this forum,, and all have an opinion..

I'm not saying it is not blow by,, and you have a top end problem.. I am just saying,,, it is not as obvious as you seem to think it is. The bike is a mess,,, no way to tell what is coming from where.. If you really want to diagnose the problem,, and not jump to conclusions... Start at step one... CLEAN.... The problem will jump out at you soon there after.

Good luck, have fun...... ya never know,, a 436 kit could be in your future 😢

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Bill, I wish you were right...but I think I'm gonna go with Burned on this one, as much as I'd hate hearing the bad news (if there is some).

Now, after reading that link you sent to me yesterday about break-in's, Burned, if my percentage is up around the 20% range, can I simply replace the piston and rings and break it in again, or will I need to do some cylinder work as well? 450 kit necessary? 😢

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The leak down test will help you decide what is going on.... after leak down,, you'll know for sure. As for just gaskets and rings,,, or more. you wont know what is needed till you get the cylinder off. Low hours and you should be ok with a set of rings. If the cylinder is worn (cross hatching worn) your looking at sending the cylinder in.. and at that point..... 😢 ya might as well go big bore 😢

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Point taken Bronco...with that i'd like to apologize if I sounded crass in anyway, that wasn't my intention. However, chain sling simply doens't look like what we see on my bike. I agree with the idea of cleaning and riding more and checking it...that's what I'll do if it's not gonna cause engine damage. Having said that, I think that course of action is the smartest way to go, simply because the bike runs like a raped ape and doesn't seem to have any power loss since I first cracked the throttle.

However, I'll still go do a leak-down test to see where the motor stands. I think 50 bucks is well spent, in the absence of having the test set myself, to know for myself. That at least would be something concrete, which is what we all lack right now trying to diagnose that mess on the overflow resevoir. I'll be sure to post to let everyone know.

Oh yeah, forgot to mention, I gave it a finger smear and smelled it...it's oil, not wax...would have been good info earlier I know...sorry.

I hope, I hope, I hope...I don't have to tear into the engine...but I'd be lying if I didn't admit I'd like to have the bigger power of the bigger bore... 😢

Thanks everyone for your opinions... 😢

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in the absence of having the test set myself

Oops, Bronco, thats not the leak tester:

leak.jpg

For a leak down you would also need an air compressor. If you use a regular compression tester you need to rig up a T fitting bypass. You would also need to know the acceptable percentage loss and mathematically calc from the pressure drop readings (on a compression guage). Is it possible to do a compression test with the auto-decomp? 😢

Mike -

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in the absence of having the test set myself

Oops, Bronco, thats not the leak tester:

leak.jpg

For a leak down you would also need an air compressor. If you use a regular compression tester you need to rig up a T fitting bypass. You would also need to know the acceptable percentage loss and mathematically calc from the pressure drop readings (on a compression guage). Is it possible to do a compression test with the auto-decomp? 😢

Mike -

😢 :cry: 😢 :cry: Yup. wrong saved link and text.. thanks.

I have a bunch saved in a file,, and I just cut and paste.. I pasted the compression block,, and not the leakdown tester.

Thanks for the catch..

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....anytime 😢

2 questions, any idea the acceptable losses in percentage for leak down on an S? and is it possible to comp test an S with auto-decomp?

Mike -

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Just got off the phone with the bike shop...i'm not gonna learn how to do this, as the mechanic's not gonna let me in the shop to watch. 😢

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