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carburetor removal problem

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I am trying to remove the carburetor on my 250X I am following the honda owners manual. I have done everything the manual says but the subframe will not swing up. I have the air cleaner connection clamp very loose to the point where there is at least 1/8 inch between it and the rubber flange. but the carb just will not come out. The sub frame will move about 1/2 inch ( if mesured at the bottom subframe bolts ) and then stop with a mushy kind of restance. If I take off the carburetor intake sided clamp the carb will pop out of the intake tube and the subframe will move back a few inches berore the carb or cables hit something to stop it. So, I have gone over it and I am almost possitive that the carb just does not want to come out of the airbox tube. I have pulled on the subframe rather hard but no movement and I can see the air box streach somewhat just like it would if the carb was stuck. With this in mind I took a screw driver and pried lightly on the carb. airbox connection and it looks very loose? Also there is a rubber tad that hangs down fron the bottom of the airbox tube. It looks like it is there to help pull it on and off. Please let me know if you have experanced this problem. And, How hard I can/should pull on the sub frame with out dammaging something. It seems to me that I must be missing something. Is there anything in the manual that honda left out? Any information would help. I only have a small amount of time to work on the bike ( two kids and wife and yesterday It took 10 minutes to get to where I am and 1 1/2 hours of trying to figure out why the sub frame will not move. I have to leave my computer in two hours so any quick responce would be great..

Thanks.

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Try loosening both the carb clamps , hold airboot in one hand and the carb in the other, and rotate the carb as much as possible.

The rubber of the airboot will tend to "adhere" itself to the metal of the carb. Rotating the carb will break it loose.

The rubber tab on the airboot is there to give you something to grab to pull the airboot off. It shouldn't take a lot of force to pull it off.

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thanks a lot but I already did that. the carb rotates very easily. I them retighten the intake side and I still can not pull it out.

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Mine was alittle hard to get off the first time also. You might try pushing in on the side of the boot with a blunt plastic handle side of a small screwdriver to loosen the lip around the carb. It worked for me.

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If it is that stuck, spray a little bit of silicon lube on the rear of the carb where it enters the airbox boot, rotate the carb a little (slacken off the front clamp) to get the lube in there, maybe even prise the boot up a bit to get it right in there and then try it. The first time I did it, it was a little tight too.

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Fred,

Of course he did that. That would be like trying to drain engine oil from the tranny plug...uh, never mind!

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Mine was alittle hard to get off the first time also. You might try pushing in on the side of the boot with a blunt plastic handle side of a small screwdriver to loosen the lip around the carb. It worked for me.

This is the trick. When you pull back on the airboot it creates a "chinese thumbcuffs" effect on the carb. In other words, the harder you pull the tighter you stretch the boot and the harder it grabs on to the carb.

The easiest thing to do is grab the boot behind the frame rail with your left hand and compress and twist it as you pull back on the subframe with your right hand.

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Thanks. I pushed on the side and it poped right off. I know my posts made me sound kind of stupid but I just did not want to damage anything. The lack of space and the incredible amount of hoses and wires had me concerned. But it was a peice of cake. I went with a 145 main, needle up two from stock, new 42 pilot, stock leak and two turns from closed on the fuel screw. From the time the I got the airbox off to the time I was finished was about one hour and it was fun. The quality of the parts and fastners was great. The bike is so much better...........

Thanks to all

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Yes, it solved most of the problem. It still is a bit lean (I think) just off idle but I haven't messed with the fuel screw yet. I just set it at 2 turns, ran it, and ran out of time. But now compaired to the KDX it runs stronger at all low rpms it is still a little slow to respond and then abrupt coming off idle. I would say it is 90% better.

Thanks.

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