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Problem found!

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Monday, after returning home from work, I found what sounded like metal on metal grinding/rubbing. I thought, OH SH#*! my rear suspension bearings are shot!!! I've yet to look at them but was headed in that direction trying to disassemble the rear end of the bike. I had removed the wheel, beautiful muzzy cannister, mid pipe, rear fender, all side panels, battery, wiring wraps, shock protecting flap, and was studying the swingarm and subframe trying to come up with an easier way to remove the swingarm with skipping a few steps in the manual, when my wife came out to have a smoke. I had noticed earlier, a wear spot on the mid pipe, and decided I'd vent to her about the problem.

I was showing her the rubbing "notch" the spring made on my mid pipe, and the paint it removed from the shock spring, when she asked, "I bet that's what was making the noise you heard."

I about soiled myself when those words came out her mouth, because as she was saying it, my mind caught up realizing she was absolutley right!!!

She found the metal on metal sound! It was the muzzy pipe, midpipe to be exact! I've posted pics on my website to plainly see the two rub points, and a bonus pic of the oil coming from the oil breather tube from the oil breather box. (Burned)

Muzzy fit and finish problem

Has anyone else had similar problems with their muzzy pipes?Should I just pound that area in with a hammer a small amount to make room for it?

If I don't do something, it'll wear a hole in the pipe, as the pics plainly indicate.

Your collective advice/experience on this one would be helpful.

Thanks TTer's! 😢

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common issue with the yosh as well.use a ball peen hammer to make the area flat.

happens on some bikes but not others.anothe example of how identical bikes are very different sometimes.

oh,and thats definately oil. 😢

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COOL! At least on the exhaust mid pipe issue. I was reluctant to take a hammer to it without checking first.

I'm glad you saw THAT picture! I figured that'd clench the question of oil or chain sling...

If I didn't previously mention, I rode LOTS of high Revs on the Sunday ride. I really tested the entire range of it's new ride characteristics, it was fun!

My adapter for the leak down tester should be in Friday, so I can either put that one to rest, or pull out the $$$ for the fix.

I've got to ask if there's an easier procedure to get to those bearings than removing the entire subframe. That just seems like excessive removal to me, but I've never done it. Is there any light to shed on this, or should I just grin and bare it? 😢

Thanks Burned 😢

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Mine rubs there when ever the sub frame is bent over to the left.. which is every time I drop it on the right hand side 😢

Check the center line of the sub frame at the very rear,,, compare it to the center line of the tire. Bet you find it off set to the left.

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My FMF did the same thing. I just bent the mount outwards a little bit and it doesn't rub anymore.

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You can remove the swing arm without removing the sub frame. Once the swing arm is off, the shock can be removed.

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you can remove the shock with out removing the subframe or swing arm.

tanke the muffler off.take the "dog bones" off.remove the the upper and lower shock bolts.lift the rear wheel up.the shock will come out the side. 😢

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Is this checked simply standing at the rear of the bike eyeballin' it? Or is there some other slick method you've come up with? Is this easier to see with the bike all together?

How do you straighten it out? Knocking it back over to the right?

Sorry if these seem common sense answers I'm looking for, I'm just not getting a visual...

😢

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My FMF did the same thing. I just bent the mount outwards a little bit and it doesn't rub anymore.

I guess I'm a bit afraid to bend that welded aluminum tab...I'd think it would be brittle and I'm not equipped to fix it if it does. 😢

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My FMF did the same thing. I just bent the mount outwards a little bit and it doesn't rub anymore.

I guess I'm a bit afraid to bend that welded aluminum tab...I'd think it would be brittle and I'm not equipped to fix it if it does. 😢

If needed space the exhaust mount out with a few washers. Did ya try leaving the mounts loose, header, mid, rear,,, and moving the pipe around to get clearence at the spring, front frame rail and case just above the clutch? These are all places my muzzy can rub if not adjusted right during install.

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You can remove the swing arm without removing the sub frame. Once the swing arm is off, the shock can be removed.

you can remove the shock with out removing the subframe or swing arm.

tanke the muffler off.take the "dog bones" off.remove the the upper and lower shock bolts.lift the rear wheel up.the shock will come out the side. 😢

Great news to hear! I really wasn't looking forward to removing the entire subframe. I'm really having a hard time fighting off the "shortcut monster" since finding the mid pipe rubbing. I still know I should clean and repack the bearings on the swingarm, linkage, and shock while I've got it torn down this far. So, I'll take my time and get this done.

I bought the grease Bronco and others have suggested, the Bel-Ray waterproof. Do I need to remove the bearings completely to clear out all the old grease before putting the new grease on them?

Thanks to you all who have already paved this rough road for guys like me! 😢 :cry: 😢

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Is this checked simply standing at the rear of the bike eyeballin' it? Or is there some other slick method you've come up with? Is this easier to see with the bike all together?

How do you straighten it out? Knocking it back over to the right?

Sorry if these seem common sense answers I'm looking for, I'm just not getting a visual...

😢

On an S you can drop a plumb bob down from a hole in the rear most part of the sub frame,,, On the E You'll just have to eye it.

If it bent,, use a long bar to lever the frame back over,, or,,, find a big rock,, , lay the bike down so it is resting on the bent side of the sub frame,,,,, jump on the top side of the bike 2.75 times and all will be straight 😢

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rangertom the short cut for removing the shock works,, but I thought your other goal was to lube the suspension,, in while doing this? If so,, the swing arm needs to come out.. It is really pretty easy to do, unless things have gone wrong already,, and the bolt is siezed.

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Good point. I guess I shouldn't just think these should fit spot on without some adjusting. I'll try that.

After doing some eyeballin' from the rear, it's plain to see the subframe is slightlty sitting to the right. So, given this, knocking it back to the left is only going to push the midpipe closer to the spring. Bummer.

:cheers:for the possible solutions 😢

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OK...all the bearings look great! All the linkage and swingarm ones at least. At the top of the shock is what looks like a bearing, but I can't tell. The shop manual doesn't show any breakout diagram on it. I couldn't get the race portion of it to slide out, like I did all the others. What to do here?

While I've have it apart, I've cleaned everything a great deal. The only bearing that wasn't full of grease was the small one on the cresent shaped piece. I repacked it and slid it back together.

Please give me some direction on that top bearing on the shock, if that's what it is.

Thanks 😢

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common issue with the yosh as well.use a ball peen hammer to make the area flat.

happens on some bikes but not others.anothe example of how identical bikes are very different sometimes.

oh,and thats definately oil. 😢

Yup My Yoshi did that, I filed the bracket a bit on the exhaust side and made it angle away, I also but a very slight dent in it. It is fine now. It is a [@#$%&*!] to get in and out though

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I did the poundin'/dentin'...ooooh that hurt!!! no more rubbin' now. Spent a bunch of time on those bearings this morning. Everything went back together without a hitch. I fine tuned the jetting a bit more...now i'm running a 162MJ, red needle 5th clip from top...runs hard and fast all gears now...

Thanks all for all the support!!! 😢 :cry:

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Upper bearing is a spherical bearing. There is a spacer on each side that needs to come out to expose the bearing. No inner bushing to slide out like all the others. As I remember, you tap the spacers out from the far side.

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