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I changed my lower fork and damper oil tonight...

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This was my first time disassembling forks, and I only had the owner's manual to go by. I would suggest other's to get the service manual before attempting this if you are not familar with the process. I guess it wasn't too bad, but I'm just kinda iffy on some things.

-Don't use Channel locks on the fork caps as others here suggested (I have a small scrape on one because the padding slipped). Buy the fork tool.

-Loosen both the fork caps and dampers before removing forks (but after loosening upper pinch bolts)

-You can use a zip tie with a metric open/box end wrench in place of the stopper tool, you just have to be careful and use STRONG zip ties.

-The manual says both the comp and reb adjusters will have 16 or more postions. Mine has 24 on the comp!? Thats a lot more than 16! Makes me wonder if the standard settings the manual says are even close!? The manual says 7 clicks out for the rebound. But cast right into the lower fork it says "TEN", right next to the "Soft<->Hard". Wonder why?

-I wish there was a better way to fill and measure the oil, to be sure it is right. Yeah, I used the chart and sorta figured how much would be left in the fork, but seems to be a pretty vague process with many variables involved. (My buddy's '04 KTM 450SX was really easy, you fill it and measure from the top of the tube.)

I guess it went pretty smooth all things considered, though. I just hope I made it better and didn't mess anything up. The damper oil was pretty silky, so I know changing that out was a good thing. 😢 :cry:

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-The manual says both the comp and reb adjusters will have 16 or more postions. Mine has 24 on the comp!? Thats a lot more than 16! Makes me wonder if the standard settings the manual says are even close!? The manual says 7 clicks out for the rebound. But cast right into the lower fork it says "TEN", right next to the "Soft<->Hard". Wonder why?

The reason why the manual say that there is 16 or more click, is because when the screw is all the way in, that is the zero-point, then the valve is in the most closede position, and it is from here that you can adjust, so you can reach the same fork action just from counting the clicks.

The "TEN" on the side of the fork means Tension 😢

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I wish there was a better way to fill and measure the oil, to be sure it is right.

Your level should be 390cc in each fork

390 cubic centimeter = 13.1874688 ounce [uS, liquid]

Good Luck

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Your level should be 390cc in each fork

390 cubic centimeter = 13.1874688 ounce [uS, liquid]

Good Luck

Well, my manual said the standard capacity with stock springs is 382cc. Using the chart and figuring that I about 5cc remained in each, I added 377cc. As near as I could tell, anyway, using my ratio rite. Thats were some of the guess work came into play. I don't have complete faith in measuring down to the "cc" with a ratio rite.

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The reason why the manual say that there is 16 or more click, is because when the screw is all the way in, that is the zero-point, then the valve is in the most closede position, and it is from here that you can adjust, so you can reach the same fork action just from counting the clicks.

Yes, I realize that, but can't they guesstimate a little closer than that? I mean, 16 clicks out is only 2/3 thirds of the range (24 clicks) of what mine has total!? I could understand plus or minus a click or even two, that would differ from bike to bike, but 50% more than the manual is kinda strange, to me. Thats fine if I have a greater adjustability with the more postitions, but I just question if my forks were designed to run at a different setting. 7 clicks out of 16 is less than halfway out (total range), and 7 clicks out of 24 is way under a third of the way out for mine. Oh well, I guess I'll just have to ride it and see how it feels.

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