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DRZ Still won't run

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I posted a while back that my DRZ S 2000 would start OK, but would stall when given any throttle. The advice here and my own idea was that I had a clogged main jet.

Well, I dismounted the carb, pulled the jets and examined. I saw no clog. I also saw no swarf in the float bowl. I cleaned the filter of some gray stuff and reassembled. I put some air through the jets just to make sure.

The problem persists. I can get some additional rpm's if I leave the choke on, but any throttle kills the engine. I pulled the plug and it's ok aside from being a bit dark which I'd expect running as much as I did with the choke on to test things. I put it back and restarted - no change.

I do not want to pull / replace the carb again unless there is something productive I can do with it out. It was a pita both ways - in and out, but I also want my bike back.

So what's up here? Could I have missed something when I had the carb out? Can the TPS or something else be responsible for this?

I"m pretty discouraged because I'm out of ideas and it took me a few hours to R&R that carb.

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ok,if your sure the carb is clean time to look elsewhere.

battery cables tight?

check the ground wire at the coil.

rag in air box?(dont laugh,it happens all the time!)

side stand switch bypassed?

try a new spark plug.

unfortuneatly im sure you will find all that to be fine.it sounds like a classic case of a failing source coil int he stator.its happened to a few members here as well as a couplei have worked on.

check all the simple stuff first,then try to borrow a known good stator from another drz(E or S).

stators arent cheap enough to have has unneeded spares.....

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I will replace the sparkplug tomorrow. All is ok other than the side stand switch not being bypassed. But I figure that would just shut down the engine rather than be affected by throttle. Am I right on that?

I'm not sure that the entire carb is cleaned. I only checked the jets which were clean. Could there be another circuit in the carb which is blocked somehow? I suppose I could pull the carb again and take it to a pro for a full cleaning if the problem can be outside the jets. I don't have a place where I can do a full cleaning of the carb too easily.

There is no way I can borrow a good stator. I know no one w/ a DRZ. Given that I pulled the jets and looked through them & blew them out. I figure that should get it. Don't you?

If you'd be willing, I'd like to hear how the stator could be the problem. Doesn't the battery pick up the load if the alternator output falls too low? Is there a static stator check I can perform before I buy one on spec? I'm sure that if I buy a new stator and it's not the problem, I won't be able to return it.

Just to get the bad news now, how much are they? Thanks for your help so far and any other info you can supply.

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All is ok other than the side stand switch not being bypassed. But I figure that would just shut down the engine rather than be affected by throttle. Am I right on that?

nope,bypass it.a bad switch can be affected vibration.

I'm not sure that the entire carb is cleaned. I only checked the jets which were clean. Could there be another circuit in the carb which is blocked somehow? I suppose I could pull the carb again and take it to a pro for a full cleaning if the problem can be outside the jets. I don't have a place where I can do a full cleaning of the carb too easily.

if the jets are clear,its ok.

There is no way I can borrow a good stator. I know no one w/ a DRZ. Given that I pulled the jets and looked through them & blew them out. I figure that should get it. Don't you?

carb should be ok.someone has to have a drz near you.any members here near you?

you'd be willing, I'd like to hear how the stator could be the problem. Doesn't the battery pick up the load if the alternator output falls too low?

thats a seperate part of the stator.the source coil is failing,not the ac voltage generator.the drz doesnt need a battery to run.

Is there a static stator check I can perform before I buy one on spec?

yes,its all in the service manual.a static test may not tell you anything however.

I'm sure that if I buy a new stator and it's not the problem, I won't be able to return it.

right,thats why you need to borrow one.

Just to get the bad news now, how much are they? Thanks for your help so far and any other info you can supply.

from ron ayers.

Part Number: 32101-29F00

Description: STATOR ASSY

Price: $236.83

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Just to confirm what you have said: Your bike will start and run at idle. It will continue to idle OK with the choke all the way off. It dies if you give it any gas. You can nurse the rpm up a little more if you re-engage the choke. It is not rideable.

Is this all correct?

You have checked the obvious: Gas is on and feeding OK? Prime position does not help? Loosen gas cap does not help? No water in the gas? No water found in the carb? You cleaned the pilot jet? There is a needle in the slide? And the needle retainer is OK? And the needle moves with the slide? Carb vent hose is clear? New plug didn't help? Air box is clear? Air intake is not restricted? Air filter in or out makes no difference? Slide diaphragm is OK? Slide moves freely? Has the bike been in storage? Have you loaned it out to anyone?

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I also have a 2000 ktm and when i clean the jets i use a strand from a old brake cable and run through the jet. Air will not clean a jet very well. Maybe a vacuum tube is off?

that may explain only runs with choke on.

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What did you clean the carb with? How deep did you tear into it and how familar are you with working on carbs? All legit questions that must be asked in order to get to the root of the problem. I've had lots of friends work on their own carbs only to finally make the call to me cause they never could get it to run right! Pull the oil dip stick and confirm that half of your gas is not in the crank case! Seen it lots of times and the bike will run like $hit if at all! Also very important that you do not spray certain solvents on rubber parts or they will expand. Lets see what we can find 😢

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Just to confirm what you have said: Your bike will start and run at idle. It will continue to idle OK with the choke all the way off. It dies if you give it any gas. You can nurse the rpm up a little more if you re-engage the choke. It is not rideable.

Is this all correct?

100% right.

You have checked the obvious: Gas is on and feeding OK? Prime position does not help? Loosen gas cap does not help? No water in the gas? No water found in the carb? You cleaned the pilot jet? There is a needle in the slide? And the needle retainer is OK? And the needle moves with the slide? Carb vent hose is clear? New plug didn't help? Air box is clear? Air intake is not restricted? Air filter in or out makes no difference? Slide diaphragm is OK? Slide moves freely? Has the bike been in storage? Have you loaned it out to anyone?

All checked and all seems ok. The problem occured on start up. It was fine when I put the bike to sleep after a 150 mile ride including a lot of rough stuff. The next AM riding to work I only got 1 blk and then it developed these symptoms. I had to push it back.

I have not lent the bike to anyone. I'm nauseated seeing the post from burned on how much this part costs. Man, is this the WRONG time in my life to have this occur. Just today I got notice that my ex is suing me for custody of my daughter so that combined with my DRZ getting sick has me in the dumps. I had a ride hoped for this weekend which would have really perked me up. Owell.

Thanks for the reply. If you can think of anything else, please post or PM.

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I also have a 2000 ktm and when i clean the jets i use a strand from a old brake cable and run through the jet. Air will not clean a jet very well. Maybe a vacuum tube is off?

that may explain only runs with choke on.

Vacuum tube is on and clear. No crimps. I figured it was that or the clogged jets. I looked at the jets and found them to be apparently clear. I then shot a burst of air from a 'can of air' through them. It's simple if time consuming to pull the carb again to check the jets again, but I'm getting a bad feeling about this.

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What did you clean the carb with? How deep did you tear into it and how familar are you with working on carbs? All legit questions that must be asked in order to get to the root of the problem. I've had lots of friends work on their own carbs only to finally make the call to me cause they never could get it to run right! Pull the oil dip stick and confirm that half of your gas is not in the crank case! Seen it lots of times and the bike will run like $hit if at all! Also very important that you do not spray certain solvents on rubber parts or they will expand. Lets see what we can find 😢

I have not worked on carbs in years having had FI bikes until Sep 04 when I bought the DRZ used.

I didn't completely disassemble the carb. What I did was to pull it, then pull the float bowl, unscrew the jets and then check & blow them out with a can of air.

I pulled the top of the carb, examined the diaphram and needle. I checked that the piston / needle moved freely. I then put it all together, remounted the carb to find that the bike runs now exactly as it did before I pulled it all apart.

I'm familar in general with concentric carbs both from bikes and from my older Brit cards (SU's and Strombergs). I am not an expert, though. I went out and checked the oil level - ok and nothing strange smelling or looking about it.

If you have any suggestions, please make them as I'd appreciate it. If not, then I guess I'll recheck everything per burned's and others' suggestions and if nothing, then buy the part.

I've been looking and don't see a TT member nearby.

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from ron ayers.

Part Number: 32101-29F00

Description: STATOR ASSY

Price: $236.83

Thanks for all your help here. I'll check everything again and then, if I've eliminted all but the stator, I'll buy a new one.

I got the bike with only about 1000 miles and only put on about 1200. I think it's awfully new to chew up a stator, but if that's what it is, then that's what it is.

Again, thanks. AFAIK, there are no DRZ's I can borrow a part from near me.

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There was a guy a while back that figured out how to check the ignition trigger coil using an O-scope. He looked at the wave form and it broke up the same time the engine craped out. I can't remember his name right now but I bet burned would remember. Famous for inventing the RTV water pump fix. Is there some one you know that is into electronics that could put an O-scope on it for you?

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moredesert.

your symptoms are exactly what his bike was doing.

the needle was all good in the slide in your carb?clip hadnt come off?

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You might also check your float height/

It should not need checking, but if it is sticking, you may have a very low level of fuel, and vibration might cause that low level to cease main jet pickup...Just a thought.

MW

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AFAIK, there are no DRZ's I can borrow a part from near me.

Did you try posting in the regional forum for NM, asking if there's anyone near you who rides a DRZ? As popular as these are and living where you do there have got to be some around.

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What does the stator do exactly ? I was just thinking old school ( not very safe ) of what to do with your problem.

All I was thinking if you pull the carb off and spray starter fluid , just a little to get it to start . Once it starts it will rev up high for a sec and then die . Would that be able to test the stator or do you have to put a load on it ? Just a wild guess 😢

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Well dude that really blows ! Looks as if you have covered most of the common steps. Seems that you will finally get some grease on the electronic section of the manual now. YUK! 😢

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There was a guy a while back that figured out how to check the ignition trigger coil using an O-scope. He looked at the wave form and it broke up the same time the engine craped out. I can't remember his name right now but I bet burned would remember. Famous for inventing the RTV water pump fix. Is there some one you know that is into electronics that could put an O-scope on it for you?

I don't know of such a person. I'll keep it in mind, but I don't even know how I can find someone who has an o-scope. I'm sure the thing can be tested, but it's silly to spend a lot of time and money finding that test. I mean the money is meaningful to me, but won't cause me to lose my house.

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moredesert.

your symptoms are exactly what his bike was doing.

the needle was all good in the slide in your carb?clip hadnt come off?

YEah, clip was on needle and the piston / slide / needle was operating ok. I noted the needle being carried normally up as the slide went up as I manually checked the slide for binding.

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AFAIK, there are no DRZ's I can borrow a part from near me.

Did you try posting in the regional forum for NM, asking if there's anyone near you who rides a DRZ? As popular as these are and living where you do there have got to be some around.

I may ask. What I may also do is tell the dealer near me where I have good relations, that I think the problem is the stator. If his wrench puts it in and it's not that, he can return it to inventory where he can't if I buy it from him (0r Ron Ayers) & then find it was my screw up missing something else. While that may cost more than buying the stator from Ron Ayers, it assures I won't be buying a part I don't need.

I'll chat the dealer up today to take his temperature.

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