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Convert S Model to a K?

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Okay, I have read a lot of posts on the DRZ S model versus the E model. My buddy has the rare Kick model and wants a street legal motard/dirtbike (in the peoples republic of California), so we are shopping for a street plated bike. The things starts way too easy to need an electric start for our tastes (so the extra weight isn't worth it to us). I have noticed the E model has the plug in the side cover where the kick start used to be. Does anyone know if the S model has the same cover and can it be converted to kick? Please don't turn this into a button versus no button thread.Thanks guys.

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If you are going to do the job truly right it is a real hassle because the K uses a different crank. Now the good news you can put a kicker on an E or S model and then just remove the electric starter. You will have to make your own plug for where the starter went into the cases at. This shouldn't take much though but a small piece JB welded in. In other words just put the goop to it and make sure it don't leak. prairiedawg 😢

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i think the S has a different rod maybe, but i haven't heard of different cranks, although it's totally possible? i've heard the K's rev up faster due to a lighter flywheel or something.

basically if you pull of the starter, put on the kick, change the base gasket and carb you'll be ripping it up.

-droo

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you can add the kicker kit,but the to convert completely requires more stuff.the left crank half is different on the kick only models.

as is the stator,flywheel,cover etc etc.

depends on what your after.

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I was gonna do the full 9 and make mine an all out kicker.

But Burned talked some sense into me and so I just removed...

-Battery

-One way clutch/starter gear on the crank

-Starter Motor

-Small gear

-Motor Relay

Added....

-Piece of aluminum to cover the starter motor hole

-Kickstart kit

-1 4700uF Capacitor in place of battery for good DC regulation.

My S is now a bastardized kicker. Saves about 10 lbs 😢 :cry:

12.jpg

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I have been considering buying a 'new' DRZ,But can't get a new kicker,as they only imported them for a year or so.

This sounds like the ideal solution.

I was wondering,you say it saved 10 pounds,Is that worked out from how much you removed?

Or have you taken into account how much you put back on with the kickstart kit?

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Does any body have more detailed instructions on removing all of the parts to convert to a kicker only? Do you have to split the cases, etc? Pics?

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All the kicker kits I've seen say they are only for the E model because it has a different head. Anyone know anything about this?

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All the kicker kits I've seen say they are only for the E model because it has a different head. Anyone know anything about this?

The kick start for for the E and S/SM are the same. The SM/S have auto-decomp cams (stock) the E you need to use the decomp lever and stuff for the head in the kit.

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I was gonna do the full 9 and make mine an all out kicker.

But Burned talked some sense into me and so I just removed...

-Battery

-One way clutch/starter gear on the crank

-Starter Motor

-Small gear

-Motor Relay

Added....

-Piece of aluminum to cover the starter motor hole

-Kickstart kit

-1 4700uF Capacitor in place of battery for good DC regulation.

My S is now a bastardized kicker. Saves about 10 lbs :applause::eek:

I am planning to put a small 1-4Ah battery and install a kickstart kit, but on the other hand i do not need the electric starter at all so i figured this would be a great mod. I would like to have some more info though on the stuff you removed, like part numbers or something so i know better what would it require to remove stuff.

And some more detailed specs of that capacitor too.

Thanks in advance

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How and where do you place the capacitor when getting rid of the battery. Some details on how this is done would be great. Without the battery is there still enough power to run heated grips, headlights, and a gps? Will running without a battery cause a bigger strain on the charging system? Id like to do this to save some weight and use the battery tray as a place to hold a tool kit and extra stuff.

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I tried to add a comment on the SmugMug photo-documentation (there's a link to this site in the DRZ FAQ) of the Suzuki kick-start kit, but their anti-spam software was preventing it for some reason.

Neither the Suzuki installation directions nor the photo-documentary series particularly stress the need to preload the return spring. This may be self-evident to people that normally work on dirt-bikes, but it wasn't especially clear to me as a street-bike guy.

I found that when the shaft and spring are properly positioned, the spring takes about 3/4 of a turn to align with the hole in the crankcase.

This is also a great opportunity to use red LocTite on the primary nut, since clearance is tight with the clutch basket in place.

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One more guy interested in the details... Any one able to make a quick rundown of common problems/pointers for this install? So far sounds like the spring and the plate to cover the starter, as well as the capacitor placement.

Saving 10 lb.s sounds pretty good to me, anyone able to add up overall wieght savings with Yosh. exhaust and kicker mod.? My bike is running 17" knobbies front and rear so I need all the help I can get.:ride:

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