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New guy has ACR question for KLX 300R

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We just got a 2000 KLX300R for my son. I've ridden it and love it (a LOT more nimble than my TTR250). I've been reading these forums, bought the shop manual, checked the valve clearances (right in spec), etc. I'd like to do the ACR mod but the dealer (Sunnyvale Ca.) couldn't tell me the difference between the old/new exhaust cams so I don't know how to modify it. Where could I get this done or find the specs/directions to do it? Any help would be appreciated.

By the way, I checked my idler gear and it was very sloppy so I think I'll add a washer to tighten it up a bit.

😢

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The only guy that I'd trust to do it is Bruce (Brewster). He's probably done 50 of them, has the correct jig and has experience under his belt. Either search out his email here on the board, or I'm sure he will pop in over the next day or so and let you know how to get the cam to him. The positioning of the ACR on the cam is critical and once adjusted will make the bike kick over much easier. If you want more info, go to the planetklx.com website. There's a complete writeup there.

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cruzer;

TT is where to find the answeres, not the dealers!!! The only claim that I make about the ACR mod is that it will make it easier to kick the engine over. It will not compensate for wrong carb settings or valves that need adjusting. I'm not even sure that it will help the idler gear problem as the most impact on the idler gear is when the engine kicks back when trying to start it.

If you are interested in having your cam/ACR modded, let me know. My email is "ibrew at earthlink dot net" and please put ACR mod in the subject line. All I charge is enough $$ for return postage and a six pack of good micro brewed beer. Normal turn around time is one day. I live in Hayward, so if needed, I could even help you out with the process.

Ride on

Brewster

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Get the mod done. We picked up a like new '01 this summer and have done nothing but set up the factory suspension for the kid and ride. Was at the dealers the other day and kicked over a new one. Had to kick it through once or twice more to believe the difference. Brewster, we'll be sending a cam your way once winter sets in. Looks like we need to check out the idler gear also, even with a low mile bike.

I'll be on here asking for more help as we start getting the bike set up for Young Son II. (and Dad??)

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Brewster-

I'll send you an e-mail and we can arrange for the ACR mod.

Bill, Mmaxed-

Thanks for you inputs. I'll post the results, plus any other endeavors that might be helpful to others.

Cheers.

-Cruzer

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I don't think mine has kicked back at all since I changed the ACR position. The bike seems to be a one kick starter, from anywhere in the start cycle when it is warm.

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I don’t know for sure if its kicking or kick back that causes the wear in the bushing but I know what caused the final failure in the ’94 I got cheap with a cracked case and broken out put shaft.

The idler gear had enough play that it wobbled into the back of the clutch and caught on a rivet. There were deep grooves in the back of the clutch. It snagged and broke off the end of the output shaft and cracked the case just like the picture on Planet KLX. The idler gear still looked fine.

When I rebuilt it I retimed the ACR. Maybe too much since its scary how easy it is to kick. I’ve never had it kick back but I make sure is on the compression stroke when I kick it.

If you remember the old Yamaha 500’s, they had a window on the cam housing with a white dot on the cam. If you saw the dot you were in the right place and it wouldn’t kick back. If not, you took your chances unless you were positioning it by feel.

IMO the wear (and kick back) is caused by incorrectly positioning of the engine for starting and is compounded by the ACR timing.

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