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Chain tension

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I set mine at 3/4" at the tightest point on a stand.(wheel off ground) Spin the wheel and adjust it at it's tightest point because it will vary.

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I set mine at 3/4" also, much to the horror of my friends. They're all convinced I'm trying to snap the countershaft off the engine by setting it so tight, but I got sick of listening to the chain slap against my hard-as-a-rock TM Designs guards. I re-read the manual and it says to adjust it to a MAXIMUM of 1" to 1 3/8". I haven't had any probs and it's worth it to freak out my know-it-all buddies! 😢

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Someone here once said to run them tight on the CRF's as, contrary to what most of us think, the chain will not tighten up when you sit on it or as the suspension goes through it's full stroke.

On the stand, with the subframe off (doing the air-filter), I adjusted my chain to around 1" of play, maybe a little less, took out the top shock bolt (with a 2"X4" laying flat under the tire), moved the swingarm up and down and, sure enough, no tightening. I suppose this has to do with the location of the swingarm pivot bolt in relation to the countershaft but, regardless, he was correct.

In other words, you're not going to have any effect on your countershaft provided you have at least a little play in the chain. Keep in mind though, if you ride/race in the mud, a chain full of it can tighten up a great deal.

If it's dry and you've got some play, you're good to go. 😢

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Keep in mind though, if you ride/race in the mud, a chain full of it can tighten up a great deal.

If it's dry and you've got some play, you're good to go. 😢

Had this happen earlier this summer. I adjusted my chain to 3/4" the night before a practice day at a local track. It had rained a couple of days before this and they had layed sawdust in all of the turns. That wet sawdust sticks to everything! Anyway, I ended up casing a double and snapping the chain. It then whipped forward and took out a chunk of my case in the process. I'll run a little more slack from now on when the track is muddy.

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