Well, I am not sure if I have a problem or it is just matter of getting used to WR's steering/cornering. It feels like I am running on a flat front tire. The handle bar rotates freely from left to right/no binding and I disassembled the steering head and greased the bearings.

When I am turnning on the WR it feels as if it is going to washout. The air pressure is at 15psi on new tire. The suspension setting is stock

For the past 10 years I have been riding Honda XRs exclusively and the steering on them feels as light as a bicycle. Is this a Yamaha trait or??

Did any of the ex XR owners had the same sensation when switched to WR?


Some thoughts:

-The front forks don’t really “sit” or sag at all when new, once broken in you will get more weight transfer in corners.

-As soon as you have a few hours on the bike then, I’d recommend setting the sag.

-Once you’ve had some seat time with the proper sag, you may try raising the forks up in the clamps for more turning prowess.

-The WR seat/tank isn’t the ultimate in turning-friendly ergos. An IMS YZ tank seat kit is what a lot of guys end up with to help the turning.

-The stock front tire isn’t the best, you may try a Dunlop 756 for all but the hardest hard pack.

-Nothing turns like a Honda.

As usual Hick has offered some great advice. Let me be a little more direct, the 739 is trash.......get rid of it!

A couple more things, would be to raise the forks in the triple clamp (I run 13mm to the top) and to shorten the chain (2 links) or go to a 52T rear. The 52T rear is also a very popular mod.

Bill :)


99 WR400f, YZ timed, MX-Tech suspension, Scotts steering damper, White Bros E-Series (12 discs), tapered header and a/f. Kouba T-handle for the fuel screw. Works Connection billet throttle tube and frame guards. Cycra Pro-Bend, triple clamp mount handguards. Thumper Racing rad guards, Renthal Jimmy Button highs, YZ Tank and IMS seat, YZ number plate, odo removed, EKP, 48PJ, 175MJ at 500-1000' Thanks James Dean!

Ditto, that wonderful feeling that the front end is going to wash out is courtesy of the 739.

"the 739 is trash get rid of it"? It all depends on what environment your riding in doesn't it? I would fully agree that the 739 rear couldn't stick to the ground if it was dripping with glue. I have found that for riding in the mountains and in areas in the southeast that the 739 front (9.5 lbs) and the 756 Rear (10 lbs) make a great combination. additionally from the stock suspension settings add 4 clicks rebound and two clicks compression have made a great difference for me. As an example this past weekend I did a mountain run with several two strokers and 426 riders.. When they were having problems washing out in tight switchback corners and 80 degree berms I was rocketing in and out with Zero slippage. My 739 (Front) was doing the deed where others were failing (and Falling) in most instances.

PS: Man those TT fender stickers are tight....Thanks.

Do all the things Hick and Bill mentioned and you'll be fine. If your bike is new, soften the suspension clickers until you have about rides. Then move them back to stock for a starting point to adjust from there.

52tooth rear sprocket moves the rear wheel forward 1/2".

This made the biggest improvement(for me) after the switch to the 756.

Hey there all,

Look, i am by no means an expert/professional rider. I can hold my own on MX, but not that great on trails. In any case, my advice, hope it helps.

1. Perform all the sugegstions that Hick made

2. You have to ride this bike agressively to get the best out of it! Cornering should be agressive with your crotch on the tank refiller and leg extended as far forward as the forks.

3. All else will come with practise and patience. it is a lighter bike that the XR, so you will feel like the front is washing out.

4. 15psi seems a little high....


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