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DRZ oil change possible SNAFU? help!

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Switched to Silkolene 15-50W, but turns out I didn't pull the drain plug but the oil screen plug and the frame plug. Question is, did I get enough of the old oil out. I put exactly 1700ml back in, changed filter, ran for 4 minutes, checked the oil and it was roughly 1 cm above the grid marks on the dip stick. Is this too much oil?

Do I need to drain some out! Will it screw anything up. Sort of a bandit oil change, left work for an hour to do it, should have waited until I had more time.

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A tad bit above the fill mark, assuming you checked levels correctly is not a huge deal.

Should you drain it? well,,, umm, yes,, er,no,, maybe. 😢

All major oil brands and types can be mixed, though you loose benefits of either type,, but it's still oil. How dirty was the old oil? if nasty,, and you left some in.. I'd change again,, but thats just me....

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If you just ran the engine before draining the oil from the frame, there wouldn't be too much left in the engine. At least that's what I noticed.

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So I woke up this morning, warmed up the bike, rode to UAMS on the superslab and the poor DRZ acte like a dog, reduced responsiveness less power, felt like an effort to get up to 70 mph. Get to work, park the bike, go in the lab, grab a 14mm socket, walk back out and take out roughly 400ml of engine oil, let the bike idle for three minutes and check the oil. Level is Perfect.

Question is, will running too much oil cause the symptoms I described and did I do any permenent damage? Hope those case seals are tough.

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My oil, before the change, would be a little foamy, which I suppose my dealer probably dumped in 2L and called it a day.

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My guess is you overfilled it by not draining the oil properly before you refilled it with the correct amount. The excess will have been spraying out of the crankcase breather into the inlet of the engine and mixing with the fuel/air mix so it would have been running very rich and oily as if you'd had a gasket failure! 😢

Oil breaks down over time as the long-chain hydrocarbons are fractured into little chains. So old oil is less viscous and does a worse job of keeping your engine lubricated. It also carries metal particles and other gunk it's flushed from round the engine.

You've just mixed new oil with runny, old oil containing impurities. I would advise you drain the oil properly and start again with the correct amount of fresh oil. That way, you know it's got clean oil, doing the best job it can with no metal or crud floating about in it.

Cheers

Ian

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Been there done that.

If you warmed it up like you were supposed to before draining it you definitely overfilled it.

Your bike will keep taking oil if you shove it down its throat and the level on the dipstick just stays a hair above the line so you think your ok.

In reality there is way too much in there and even though you keep draining a bunch out it just doesn't seem to ever be right.

I spent like 3 hours when I did the same thing trying to get it right.

Finally got to the point where I just went and bought some more new oil and started over.

Thats what you should do.

Do you want to see what happens to your top end when it burns oil? Its not pretty and end result kills lots of power. The piston had a very thick layer of solid junk and it was all over the valves and head.

http://home.earthlink.net/~natedog224/valve.jpg

Although I think mine burned some air filter oil it may have been when I overfilled it the oil went through the crank breather box and returned through the airboot on the intake. Either way look at that valve....

That junk is hella hard to get off and when I was finished the bike ran like a champ. I did E gaskets and FCR at the same time though.... But I'm sure cleaning that junk made a difference too.

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How long does that take???!!!

Went home, dumped out all the oil and refilled with 1600 ml of oil......

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