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Stock handlebard

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A lot of claims that the stock handle bars are junk. Why and how? How does a bettr handlebar show itself - what exact improvement? Just curious.

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And of course with that, for those who know me, are there any step by step instructions out there on changing handle bars 😢

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When somebody says they're junk that's referring to the mild steel used. They're cheap bars but work fine. When I changed to some taller bars it really helped the ergos of bike. Much more comfortable standing up now & puts me in a better seated position. The service manual has good instructions to change out the bars. Except you'll need to trim off a pin on the starter button housing. It goes through the stock steel bars. You do not want to put a hole in aluminum bars in a stress area. Even a small one!

😢

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You'll find that many aftermarket bars are stronger and resist bending better. Small wrecks that bend the stockers probably won't bother better bars. They may also reduce vibrations that can make your hands go numb. You can adjust your ergo's as Toast said and, oh, they can look pretty darn cool too.

When changing bars I recommend taking some well lit digital pictures beforehand. Once everything is all torn apart, I invariably find myself wondering which way certain things go back together (over or under? Where was that cable tie? Does this go in front of this?).

😢

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>>> Im only 13...

Now that makes me feel just peachy.

Its like video games, most 13 year olds also kick my butt.

In other words, your being 13 doesnt make it any easier for me - Im old, Im 38. Lucky I can even walk upright, you'll see 😢

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Very easy mod to do yourself. I have Renthals and they have a grid on them to help you line up and center the bars under the clamps. Just be sure to tighten the clamps together so there is equal spacing front and back on each clamp.

Cheers 😢

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Check out these photos of the Factory 909 handlebars I installed on my 230. They look great and feel great. BTW, the bars are so-o-o-o easy to install. You'll surprise yourself once the job is completed. Good luck! 😢

http://home.earthlink.net/~billfial/images/909rear.jpg

http://home.earthlink.net/~billfial/images/909-right-side.jpg

.

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I'd wait until the stock bars are bent unless you have some urgent problem with ergo's. Changing bars is easy but there is a point where everything is going every which way where you will wonder. That's why some "before" pix are good. You're only 38 and should be able to remember how most of it goes back together, unless you drink while you are reassembling. It's a good exercise for learning how all the controls are assembled. It will help you on the trail if/when something messes up.

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Pro-Taper S.E bars. Cuts the vibration more than Renthals (Has a pair or renthals on my bike, swapped them out for the pro-tapers and barely feel any vibration now) Really strong bars too.

Or, if you want, you can get a triple clamp that can acomodate 1 1/8"

bars and put on just about any 1 1/8" bar on it...

-Phill

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Alright. Seem comfortable going with pro taper SE's; but how do you decide which ones to get for the CRF230? I like the hieght and width and pullback of the factory ones, just the vibrations. Or, maybe I dont know better about the ergos, is there a preferred arm/body alignment psoition (ie forearms should be level to the grouond, hands shoulder width, etc)?

Protpaer SE chart: http://www.protaper.com/sebars.html

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What I'd do is target what's wrong with your stock bars exactly. You said that the sweep and hieght is fine and all. What I'd do is go into a local shop with your stock bars and match them up to the bars there.

The CR Hi's are about 1" taller at the end of the bars, so they have more of a inward lean. The sweep is the same. You may want to try the CR Mid first and see how they match up to your bar...

-Phill

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