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Break light switch

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I just got a hydrolic break switch for the WR. Has any one done this before? I just don't want to tear into the master and screw things up!

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Hoss,

When I installed My dualsport kit on my 99 WR, It come with the hydrolic switch. Just unscrew the banjo bolt in the master cylinder and replace it with the new switch, then hook up the 2 wires.. It's simple or I couldn't have done it.

Jim

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When I unscrew the bolt, would the break fluid run out?

Thank you

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Hoss,

Some fluid will drip out, just don't press on the brake pedal till after you have put in the switch then bleed the system and you are done.

Jim

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We dont all have access to haydro vac systems, just be quick like a bunny (remove and replace bolt) and dont hit that lever, youll be ok, the resovior can take a bit of air in it, just dont let any air into the system and your good to go.

[This message has been edited by WR_Jason (edited 07-20-2001).]

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Originally posted by WR_Jason:

We dont all have access to haydro vac systems...

I got a MityVac II "kit" (it came with the pump, hoses, and various fittings) at Discount Auto Parts for $26. Now, a brake bleed takes all of one minute if I'm working by myself and less time than that if I have a helper. Money well spent IMO.

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OK...so I just checked my hydrauilc brake switch to see if there is a fault and now its back on. How do I bleed that sucker ? It has to have got some air inside it when I put it back on and there is no way for the air to escape as it will have to travel DOWN and thats impossible.

The only thing I can guess is to take the whole cylinder off and turn it upside down to get the air to take a hike into the tube, then I can bleed properly. Any suggestions/confirmations ?

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Missle, not impossible, improbable. simply bleed it quickly and the viscosity of the brake fluid will carry the air down with it. or at least that is how I get it to bleed out, it may take a few minutes of pumping but it should work.

Later,

Ronin

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