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230 Flywheel!


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Holy Smokes! This thing weighs a TON!

According to my incredibly accurate bathroom scale, it weighs over three pounds! This is not counting the ring gear since it is stationary when the engine is running. There is a huge ring around the sprag clutch assy that can be turned down to almost nothing. No wonder it revs so friggin slow WHEN CLUTCHED!

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Holy Smokes! This thing weighs a TON!

According to my incredibly accurate bathroom scale, it weighs over three pounds! This is not counting the ring gear since it is stationary when the engine is running. There is a huge ring around the sprag clutch assy that can be turned down to almost nothing. No wonder it revs so friggin slow WHEN CLUTCHED!

SLower.... i dont understand ?

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Not sure about the 230 but if you send your 150 flywheel to BBR they will take up to 8.75 ounces off of it for $100. Or you could take it to your local machine shop and if they have a CNC machine they could do it for cheaper i'm sure. It is supposed to make the throttle response more snappier but also increases the chance of stalling.

Cheers, ?

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Lightening the flywheel will emphasize squirt over grunt. Squirt is great on a track but not so easily managed on trails. If you take off too much for trail obstacles, you may find yourself reliving some 2-stroke moments (clutch fanning, bogging, stalling) that would normally be simple climbs on the torquey 230. My opinion is that minor flywheel lightening could be advantageous for both situations but you have to be careful of taking it too far and losing your grunt. Since the 230 is a trail/play bike, I'd be reluctant to do much flywheel work unless I had a specialized purpose in mind.

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I'm pretty sure that cdaledh, the person that started this thread, uses his bike for Motard duty where a lighter flywheel would be to his advantage for quicker acceleration out of the turns and lower lap times. Some riders like the quicker engine accell/decell traits that a lighter flywheel offers.

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I had the face of the outer ring shaved 1/8 inch, and also turned down the diameter of the ring 3/16 inch. Make sure you disassemble the starter clutch. You do this by removing the six TORX screws inside the flywheel. The ring I am talking about is the silver ring PERMANENTLY attached by rivets to the back of the flywheel rotor.

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oh yeah, the bike is currently back in trail riding trim. Dirt wheels and all. With my 200# butt on the bike, I no longer need to use the clutch to loft the front in a nice wheelie with the lighter flywheel. It revs quicker, but there is still a huge ammount of mass on the flywheel due to the starter clutch.

It definately comes out of corners harder, throttle responce is improved.

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IM pretty sure that a flywheel does a couple of things...

1. smoothes engine operation (so ur not vibrating tons)

2. it connects ur engine to ur tansmission

3. on a car its where the starter motor turns the engine so im guessing it might be the same

not sure about these but its a guess from auto service 1

?

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You are correct on 1 and partially on 3. The transmission does not connect through the flywheel as on most autos. Motorcycle manufacturer's connect the starter to the engine in a number of different ways. Most auto makers starters engage directly to the flywheel/ringgear. The CRF230 uses what is called a "sprag" clutch. This device is a "one way" engagement design that when engaged will turn the engine over. Once the engine speed exceeds the sprag clutches mechanical tension it automatically releases, allowing the system to disengage and to "coast" while the crankshaft/flywheel spin normally. You can look at the system in better detail on an internet parts fiche like at www.ronayers.com.

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