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Clutch side drain bolt Stripped, Help!!

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So I bought an 04 CRF to replace the one I sold, ( I am in the army and just returned from deployment). I went to change the oil, and when I took out the clutch side drain bolt the threads came with it. I put the bolt back in and it just spins, I found a longer bolt and it will snug up and tighten. I cant get all the thread shavings out of the case. I have put 9 quarts of gear saver through it and it is still spitting out shavings, plus every time I put the bolt in and take it out more metal is on the bolt. Any Ideas? will it hurt the clutch to just flush it out he best I can or do I need to split the cases and clean it out.

the real bummer is I havent even rode it....

thanks,

scott 😢

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I never took my 450 apart but I did have my 250 apart and drain hole comes out behind the clutch basket at the bottom of the case. If it was me I would remove the clutch side cover (the large one) and blow compressed air through the hole to clean it out. You may even get away w/o removing the clutch basket if you have a long enough tip on the air nozzle.

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Does the tranny oil only lube the clutch or does it lube the transmission gears as well?

thanks for the help,

scott

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The transmossion and clutch share an oil supply separate from the engine. If you don't drain and refill it properly, there is a chance that it will be underfilled, even though it looks at first like it's full. I know of this, but I don't know the details. Check a manual or do a search for the details.

To repair the drain hole in the case, use a Time-Sert. It works on the same principal as a Heli-coil, but it takes the concept to a new level. They work really well.

http://www.timesert.com/

Metal in the trans oil is an everyday thing. Even so, some of it is normal, some not. Ground steel is normal; just gear wear. But if you also have a leak at the water pump impeller shaft, you may want to check the bearings on the balancer shaft. Tiny little, fairly uniform "squares" or "flakes" of steel larger than the usual fine transmission grindings could be a bad bearing, and there should be a growling noise to go with it. If it's just aluminum chips from the drain hole, just repair the threads and don't worry about it. 😢

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Grayracer, I don't think you're familiar with the trans drain on the CRF. (no disrespect)

The bolt threads deep into the case so it's not like you could get a timesert in there. That bolt actually holds the 2 cases together.

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I cleaned the threads, and got the longer bolt to tighten, So will it be alright to ride it with the metal shavings from the threads ( I got the majority of them out?) inside the case, or should split the cases and clean it out. I would suspect the aluminum shavings wont hurt the tranny gears, I am concerned about wearing clutch plates.

thanks for your help.

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If it was me, I would skip a weekend of riding and fix it right. It will be cheaper in the long run. Should be an easy deal to split the cases, make a proper repair and clean out the debris. Then, next weekend you can ride care free and not worry about every little "sound" you hear!

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I agree with The Dave. Like I tell my kids, 'Full-ass or no ass at all". 😢

Take it apart and fix it right and buy yourself a quality click-style torque wrench.

Best of luck man. 😢

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Just my 2 cents, but if it was me and the bolt tightened well no way would I split the cases for a few threads if any that are left behind. Sounds like you flushed it well. I would change the oil a couple more times after short rides then forget about it. Splitting the cases is a major deal. Keep in mind I am very anal about maintenance and the condition of my bike. I say run it 😢 .

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If it was me, I would skip a weekend of riding and fix it right. It will be cheaper in the long run. Should be an easy deal to split the cases, make a proper repair and clean out the debris. Then, next weekend you can ride care free and not worry about every little "sound" you hear!

Easy deal to split the case?? 😢

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Grayracer, I don't think you're familiar with the trans drain on the CRF. (no disrespect)

The bolt threads deep into the case so it's not like you could get a timesert in there. That bolt actually holds the 2 cases together.

I see your point...I think. And you're right. I'm here to learn about the CRF, since I may be buying one for my son (he prefers the red bike to the YZ450 at this point). I'm happy to contribute when I know something, and willing to admit when I don't.

Seems like an odd way to drain the transmission, if I understand you correctly.

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throttlejockey is correct ,--no need to disassemble,----and if you haven't done one this is not the one to try and learn on and you wont get it done in a weekend--------at the shop i get lots of screwed up drain bolts on all kinds of stuff, trucks, cars, crf,cr,trx, and i just don't know why ??---on the red 450 you should be able to just kleen it out like fred is saying,----this is one of my pet pevs, if you guys are smashing the washers and needing to replacing the washers and cracking the cases and pulling the threads out you are way to hard on the poor little thing,---these should never need any thing done and should all look like stock .---i get these things and i just cant understand what the hell was the guy trying to do ,----on all of our race bikes the things get many oil changes right at the track, some twice in one day, both sides and all of our drain bolts and washers look like new,----they never get torqued down with a wrench, just a nice slight snug with a t handle and life is good ,-----the trans one on the 450 is odd and very long ,--and needs to be treated like a race bike needs to be treated,---with kit gloves,-----like i said before the book is not a be all end all, it is full of lawyer talk and trying to pick your pocket,----and the way stuff is torqued ,---you cant just put a wrench on it and yank it down and keep going until is clicks ,-----you have to have some commen sense,------but you know what -----(common sense is not so common anymore 😢 ).

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the trans one on the 450 is odd and very long ,--and needs to be treated like a race bike needs to be treated,---with kit gloves,-----like i said before the book is not a be all end all, it is full of lawyer talk and trying to pick your pocket,----and the way stuff is torqued ,---you cant just put a wrench on it and yank it down and keep going until is clicks ,-----you have to have some commen sense,------but you know what -----(common sense is not so common anymore 😢 ).

I gotta wonder if all these guys that insist on torquing the drain bolts to 16 or 20 ft lbs (or whatever the spec is) because "the manual says you should" are also replacing their pistons every 15 hours; after all, the manual says to do that too 😢

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I am a gorilla when it comes to tightening stuff. One way I keep from getting in trouble is to use 1/4 " drive ratchet with two fingers. The T handle works also. If all else fails have your 2 year old daughter tighten it 😢 .

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