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front fork alignment techniques

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yes i did a search and that pretty much confused me more. I really cant get a piece of glass to use the "glass" method so i need something else.

There was a mention of "gauging" the front forks. What exactly does this mean and how do i do it?

Other than taht...the techniques were ALL similar, but were different in important ways. The order in which i tightened and loosened things were different and some techniques said to compress the forks and hit the brakes and others said to spin the wheel and hit the brakes.

So what should i actually do?!?!

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Get a micrometer.

Set the brake side to the height you want or think you need. Measure from the top of the clamp to the top of the fork cap. Then raise or lower the other fork until it is the exact same measurement.

Now that you have the height even loosen the axle clamp bolts on the same fork (the non-brake side). push the fork in as far as it will go, and then pull it out as far as it will go on the axle. The mid point of that movement will be mecca for the fork alignment.

Complements of a true professional, not myself. Who I hope will show mercy upon me and let me try the new yamaha valving too. My freeking hands are killing me eh. 😢

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i dont understand why tightening the axle doesnt just automatically alighn the forks by focing them to be parallel to the wheel spacers?

and if your technique aligns the forks to the wheel, the what aligns the fork in the triple clamps?

thanks for the help, i really appreciate this.

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Get a micrometer.

push the fork in as far as it will go, and then pull it out as far as it will go on the axle.

😢

this confuses me a little. What do u mean by push the fork in? compress the fork? push it "in" by pushing it left or right towards the wheel?

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Yeah,

I wonder the same. Im getting a revavle after xmas, Why can't you just simply tighten the axle bolt. Wouldn't that align the forks, now granted you dont torque the crap outa them, but enough.

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right. Heres the wya i look at it although i could be competely wrong:

both side of the wheel spacers have a flat surface that mounts against teh inside of the forks...correct? The insides of the forks that come in contact with the spacers are flas as well....correct? And when tigtened...the axle pulls both forks together towards the wheel spacers...correct? So theoretically, wont the two surfaces (wheel spacer and fork)naturally seat flush with each other when enough pressure is on them?

If this is all true...then that means if the wheel spacers are straight, then the lower forks have to be straight...no? and then once you get the lower forks straight, you can alighn the uppers by individually loosening each one and then compressing the forks? does this make sense or am i nuts?

btw, this is a lil off the subject, but rather than start a new topic, ill see if i can figure it out here. If involves the front brakes. When i reinstalled the front brake system, the pistons accidentally got more compressed ( i accidentally pulled the brake lever) So there was no room for the disc to go betweent he two pads. Well i pushed the pistons back into the caliper and everything fit in fine. Well when i went to pump the front brakes, it worked...but now i have brake drag. the pads get closer and closer and then once you they hit, they dont let off enough when u let go of the lever? what with that? there not new pads..nothing is new. I tried compressing the pistons again and i got the saem result. As soon as i pumped the brakes to where there on the disc, they dont let go enough. any ideas? thanks.

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What I meant was...

With the 2 axle clamp bolts tight on the brake side, loosen the other 2 clamp bolts on the other side. Now pull the loose fork out by grabbing it right at the axle area and pulling away from the bike. It will move maybe an 1/8" or so. Then push it in as far as it will go.

The midpoint of that push-pull travel is where you want to tighten the 2 clamp bolts. Doing this vertically aligns the fork so it doesnt bind.

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Warrior. I did the Same thing to my brakes when I had my forks off. I ended up draining the brake fluid and changing it, just because it needed it at the time, You might want to try that. I didn't even think of pushing them back with a screwdriver, lol.

When you align the bottom by tightening the bolts, why doesnt that align the top as well? You have to align both? why?

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well, if you notice..the lower forks can twist a little bit on the upper forks. THey can pivot slightly. SO the upper forks can be in one direction, and the lower forks can be slightly different.

As far as the brakes go, why would this happen? if im correct, i remember hearing that new brakes tend to have some drag at first. Maybe the calipers are adjusting the pads as if there new. but i wouldnt think so, because the reason NEW pads have drag is because even with the pistons pushed all the way in...sometimes they still stick out too much...so its out of the caliper/piston's control at that point. SO when u let go of the brake they still drag cause they cant retract anymore...theres nowhere for them to go.

Right now, if i spin the front tire, itll spin for about three rotations. thats how much drag it has. That shouldnt be right. IT wasnt like that before.

thanks

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o...and i dont think i need to bleed the brakes because EVERYTHING was fine when i took it apart. This is a new problem, which is weird, because i didnt change anything that involved the brakes.

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After installing the front wheel I always align the front wheel by installing the front axle and tighten lightly, leaving both front axle clamps loose. Apply the front brake and lock up the front wheel, then pump the forks up and down 5-6 times. Release front brake tighten/torque both front axle clamps. Tighten/torque front axle.

Regarding your sticking front wheel try the above front wheel alignment technique, if your front wheel still sticks, check to see if your front disc might be slightly bent. It sounds like to me it's a brake pad problem. I would remove the front wheel and check your front brake pads, they may have become dislodged/misaligned from the brake caliper when you reinstalled your front wheel. You might as well clean the brake pad pins, brake pads and spring guides since you have everything apart.

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i read in another thread that if they come into contact with grease, itll cause them to swell up as well. Exactly how much grease is needed to actually have an effect on the pads? There a chance the pads mighta touched a slight amount of grease.

If i cant figure it out, should i maybe riding on them and wearing them down a little will fix the problem...or should i definately not leave them the way they are?

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What I meant was...

With the 2 axle clamp bolts tight on the brake side, loosen the other 2 clamp bolts on the other side. Now pull the loose fork out by grabbing it right at the axle area and pulling away from the bike. It will move maybe an 1/8" or so. Then push it in as far as it will go.

The midpoint of that push-pull travel is where you want to tighten the 2 clamp bolts. Doing this vertically aligns the fork so it doesnt bind.

I assume i just do the non brake side because the brake side wont move unless i loosen the axle bolt too?

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The brake side wont move because the 2 clamp bolts will be tight. You loosen the clamp bolts on the non brakes side so you can move the fork back and forth on the axle to find the mid point of travel.

The non brake side is done as it has less crap on it so it's easy to fidgit with.

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right. i understand what your saying about how to move it and align it. I was just saying that when doing this, we only mess with the non brake side correct? another words...we keep the brake side clamps tight and adjust the fork on the other side. Do we leave it at that? or do we tighten up non brake side and loosen the brake side and repeat teh same process? Im assuming the brake side gets left alone because even after you loosen the brake side clamps, it still doesnt seem like it would go anywhere as long as the axle is tightened.

As far as teh brake pads go, i heard "contamination" can cause the pads to swell. Exactly how much contamination would cause this? There a slight possibility grease oils from my hands coulda gotten on the pads a lil bit. I cant figure out the brake dragging problem and i spent a lot of time reading searched posts. Im gonna try a few things tonight and see how that works. Thanks for all the imput so far. Warrior86

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thats right, you only adjust the non-brake side and then let it go at that.

The goal is to align one of the forks to the other one. It doesnt matter which one you choose to align, but the non-brake side is easier to adjust. So it's the one that gets picked on.

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o ic. Another words, if you align one...your basically aligning them both....one fork is the constant and one is the variable. Gotcha!

Alright, thanks for that help. I REALLY appreciate it. Now if i can figure out whats with my brakes, ill be able to put my bike together and ride in the snow.

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Right now, if i spin the front tire, itll spin for about three rotations. thats how much drag it has. That shouldnt be right. IT wasnt like that before.

The fact that you can spin the wheel without grunting says you are not dragging abnormally. You shouldnt experience any problem riding.

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yeah? so thats normal? i guess it just alarmed me because i dont remember it doing that before i took my front end apart. Still, i think im gonna do everything i read in other threads when i searched. They mentioned lubing everything up in the caliper and making sure the pistons, piston seals, or hanging pins didnt have dirt or corrosion.

to describe the feeling: when i pull the brake lever the calipers apply pressure to the pads and then to the disc...when i let go of the lever, its NOT that the pads are still being pressured...there NOT. Its more that they just are NOTseparating after i let go of the lever. instead, there just kinda resting against the disc, neither being pressured nor removed. was that clear enough?

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