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No Mess YZ/WR Oil Change

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I've been using a "no mess" YZ/WR engine oil changing technique that I thought other YZ/WR owners might find useful. First, find a used cardboard tube like the kind you find inside a paper towel roll or a Xmas wrapping cardboard tube cut down to 12" long (good for one time use) or you can use 2" diameter PVC pipe cut down to 12" (reusable) and 2 PVC caps.

After completely unscrewing the oil dip stick, loosen the frame drain bolt, then unscrew the drain bolt with one hand while holding your new high tech "no mess" oil tube directly under the frame drain hole with your other hand. When the drain bolt comes out, press the oil tube up to the frame drain hole so you can direct the flow of the engine oil as it drains down the tube into your oil drain pain instead of splashing onto the garage floor, front wheel, etc. When you've completed your oil change, just throw away your "no mess" oil tube or wipe down your "no mess" PVC oil tube, put the PVC caps on each end and it will be clean and ready for the next oil change. 😢

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I must be doing something wrong, 'cause I keep hearing how hard this is. When we drain the oil on our YZFs, we turn the wheel out of the way and hold the pan up under the bolt as we remove it. Then after the flow slows a little we set it on the floor. Never been a problem.

Then, on the '01, we have the BillyWho for the crankcase drain.

Now, if there was only some neat way of doing the oil filter without laying the bike on its side. 😢

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I must be doing something wrong, 'cause I keep hearing how hard this is. When we drain the oil on our YZFs, we turn the wheel out of the way and hold the pan up under the bolt as we remove it. Then after the flow slows a little we set it on the floor. Never been a problem.

I have to agree with you. I gave the Billywho thing a try for fun. Easyier with out and its one less thing to mess with.

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I use a quart bottle with the bottom cut out of it and do the same as you do. I just hold it in front of the frame bolt as I loosen it.

grayracer513, no offense, but that was kind of an assinine response... He never said it was "so hard" to do, just that he thought his trick might help others do a neater oil change...

It's posts like that one that can cause a forum to go to shit.

(or this one as well. 😢 )

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Would you guys please try and follow directions? Drain the frame oil by loosening the banjo bolt attaching the oil line to the engine case just below the water pump, on the rear brake side. You have to drain the oil line anyhow so drain the frame at the same time.

If your a real brainiac you might even have the mind blowing idea that a oil pan thats large enough to span the distance from the main engine case drain to the oil line banjo bolt would let you drain both at the same time. But then again you guys dont seem to be able to follow even simpliest of directions. 😢

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grayracer513, no offense, but that was kind of an assinine response... He never said it was "so hard" to do, just that he thought his trick might help others do a neater oil change...

It's posts like that one that can cause a forum to go to shit.

The original poster did not specifically state that he found it difficult. He was, however, offering a solution to it. Maybe that's what made me think that he though of it as a problem.

His solution will work better than mine in the case that his drain pan is too large or heavy to comfortably use my solution.

What I was referring to, and I'm sure you've seen it, is that this "problem" gets mentioned repeatedly. Tires getting sprayed with oil, death threats from angry Moms due to the mess on the garage floor, that sort of thing. I'm sure that the solution to it seems so obvious to me because of my 30+ years as a professional mechanic, and that, except for the fact that I have to tell my 14 year-old son this kind of stuff instead of letting him learn it the way I did, I've lost some of my perspective as to what it's like to stumble along the base of the learning curve, but even so, it shouldn't be that hard to figure out. At least not for the frame drain. The crankcase drain on the '02 and earlier models is another deal. Sorry I offended you.

Would you guys please try and follow directions? Drain the frame oil by loosening the banjo bolt attaching the oil line to the engine case just below the water pump, on the rear brake side. You have to drain the oil line anyhow so drain the frame at the same time.

Temporarily setting aside the fact that I disagree with the necessity of draining the oil line, isn't it more difficult to prevent a oily skid plate and frame mess doing it that way than by just using the frame drain?

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Here's how I do it:

Use the B? man funnel on the frame and engine drain bolt. It makes it so much easier.

Then for the oil filter, here's what I do. No leaning over the bike, nothing. Just take a sheet of aluminum foil, and cut it in a 12X12 sheet, then fold it to make it a 4X4.

Then take your "bib" and mold it into the side ov the engine over the water pump. Use a tiny screwdriver to mold it into tight spaces. Then just put the pan under the bib, take off the cover and let it drain.

Works fine for me. Only a small ammount of oil gets on the water pump cover. Much better than all over the floor...

-Phill

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im so confused everybody is saying all different things i have an 05 nd no seat time on it(too cold in jersey) but when time comes to change my oil how shud i do it what bolts and whats this about leaning the bike down???? 😢😢😢😢

thanks 😢

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It's no more difficult to keep the skid plate dry draining the oil line than it is when you drain the main drain bolt in the case. If you can handle the case bolt then you should be able to handle the oil line too.

As for being a necessity, it's in the manual to do so at every oil change. Next time you drain the frame, drain the oil line as well. You'll be surprised at the amount of oil.

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As for being a necessity, it's in the manual to do so at every oil change. Next time you drain the frame, drain the oil line as well. You'll be surprised at the amount of oil.

Well, the manual says to clean the feed line screen every time, but you already said you don't do that (I don't either. Only the first oil change after buying the bike, and then just every now and again for grins). Since there's a 100cc or so that never leaves the engine, I'm not going to bother with that little bit.

250 Thumper- I like the foil idea. Actually I saw you post that before and was sort of baiting you to post it again. 😢

When I said I was laying the bike over, I meant onto the left side, so that nearly no oil comes out of the filter housing.

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gray, before leavning the bike over, I'd lean it over to the right a lot so that it wouldn't run as much on the water pump cover. Then once I saw my brother do it at his house, I tried it and now I'm hooked...

YZFrider, should I take off all the lines, clean them with carb cleaner, split the cases and take off every bit of oil? Don't want any old oil in there! 😢

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Hey it's up to you guys. If you want to go thru so much hassle just to drain the frame, then by all means go for it. I myself will change it the easy and complete way.

Seriously if you have no issue with leaving contaminated oil in the bike what are you so anal about changing it? I would think once or twice a year would suit you better. 😢

By the way grey, if the frame screen was a close enough mesh to actually stop something I would check it. As it is, the mesh is so large that the first oil change will show if any gasket sealant was floating around in there. After that it will be debris free.

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i always drain the oil line. you've got the 8mm already on the ratchet for doing the 2 for the oil filter, why not do the line as well?

here is one for you guys to laugh at:

taken from the crf250 manual -> oil change intervalt: 15 hours

piston replacement intervalt: 15 hours

yep, make sure you change the oil when you replace that piston!!! 😢

however, they are in the motor at that point anyway redoing valves.

4 years 4 days now on my ORIGINAL valves. 😢

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here is one for you guys to laugh at:

taken from the crf250 manual -> oil change intervalt: 15 hours

piston replacement intervalt: 15 hours

yep, make sure you change the oil when you replace that piston!!! 😢

To think, some of us snivel about servicing the oil filter with every change! 😢

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So, do you lean the bike to the left or the right first?

What weight oil do yall run?

Keep it Down

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Would you guys please try and follow directions?

Oh great... You mean this damned thing came with directions? 😢

I never worry about that oil in the tube either. The way I look at it is that I change my oil about twice as often as I should, and the oil in there is never more than one oil change behind.

How's that '05 running?

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How's that '05 running?

Actually it collects dust, I have ridden it a total of 4 times. I am disappointed to say the least with the bike. I've seen mopeds have better acceleration. 😢

After putting a Ti-4 pipe on it, and doing some airbox/filter mods to open up the intake, and putting an aftermarket cdi unit on it, and lowering the front sprocket down a tooth, it's still not quite as quick as our 250F's are. In stock configuration it's a total pig.

So I am letting it collect dust until it sells.

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We'll still have to get together someday so you can ride mine then... I'm curious how it stacks up. I'll probably be pretty busy until after xmas though...

If your 250 is as quick as my 450 is, I may have to check into getting one someday. Although I really love the torque this thing puts out.

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