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Throttle Sticking, Return Cable Question?

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First off, thanks to everyone that helped with my fuel switch problem a couple weeks ago. Reconnecting the vacuum line seemed to fix that problem.

New problem.

The throttle was sticking on my ride yesterday. I had to roll it back instead of it snapping back on it's own. It was only about 20 degree F so I was thinking maybe moisture in the line that had gotten frozen.

I've done a search on this forum and read all about the problems with fraying lines, sticking cables, dirt under throttle, guards pushed against the rubber handles etc. and will be checking all that tomorrow.

My main question is that many people said they just removed the return cable and ride without. Is there any danger to doing this? What's the point of having it there if it doesn't really help. My tendency (not being too mechanically inclined) is to leave things as stock as possible so as to not screw anything up. But if it's a no-brainer to remove it and not worry about it then I'll do it if it's frayed or sticking.

Also I think many people recommended lubing with WD-40 but at least one post said to only use graphite because the oil lube attracts dirt causing more problems. What's the current consensus?

Do you think the cold weather had anything to do with this since it's the first time I've ridden below freezing?

Thanks again for all the help. This site rocks.

Tom

2001 DRZ400S (case covers and rad guards ordered and on the way)

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I hate push cables if you need a cable to push the throttle there is bigger problems...i.e. dirty carb, somthing stuck, broken return spring!.Ditch it and never look back.

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1: suggest you use a cable lubing product, rather then wd-40.. for the reasons you posted.

2: Yes there is a reason your bikes has a return cable... Liability 😢

3: That said,, if you do like I and many others do and remove your push cable,, then ride into an oncoming train.. don't blame me 😢

Sounds like you have a good idea of what to look for,, cable binding and sticky cable itself is what I would be look at.

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The dual cable set up (actually a pull-pull cable system) is there for product liability reasons. They came into common use in the 70's and any street legal motorcycle I can think of has the system. Some off road bikes use it too. In the event the throttle sticks with greater force than the return spring can overcome, the return cable will pull the throttle closed. Most dual cable systems work just fine and last forever. The design of the DRZ400 cable system is such that the return cable wears prematurely and causes more problems than it solves.

A more technical reason to use a return cable is, multicylinder 4 strokes with slide type carbs generate a lot of vacuum at closed throttle and 4 carbs linked together and 4 cylinders sucking keeps a bind on the throttle slides. It takes a lot of return spring to overcome the "vacuum bind" so a return cable adds security that the throttle will close when you want them to. Now the rest of the story: CV carbs have butterfly throttle valves (DRZ400S and most street bikes that still use carbs) that do not bind with vacuum. Also The DRZ400E uses an FCR carb. The FCR has a roller slide and a floating "vacuum break" plate so it does not bind. In other words, there is no good technical reason for 2 cables on a DRZ400 "S" or "E".

It is your choice if you choose to use 1 cable or replace the 2 cable set.

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Thanks for the help.

I'm going to check it out tomorrow and hopefully it will be a quick fix.

There's snow and ice on the road today so I don't think I'll get to ride tomorrow but I'll get it ready to go. Spent all day driving my asses (donkeys that is) all over North Georgia so I'm ready for a little quiet time with my bike. Driving loaded trailers on icey roads is no fun.

Thanks again,

Tom

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ya can try to readjust the cable locknut at the carb area

it can cause sticking too

from my "recent" experience 😢

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