Improve 00' YZ426 braking!?!?!?! how?

I did a CRF master cylinder along with a stainless brake hose and it make a world of difference! Definitely worth the $$$

I have a brand new Nissin MC and Ride Engineering SS brake line just waiting to go on. I'm hoping I can install and ride this weekend, I'll post an update.

Thanks for all the responses.

The '03 & later 450 rear brake set-up was a big help on my '00, but I still want to do something with the fronts as well. I was looking at trying one of those wave rotors, has anybody tried these and do they work better?:cry:

I am running a braking wave oversized (floating) rotor, a 2002 Cr master and cr routing with Motul 600. It works as well as it is going to get. It will never stop like a 250 just because of the weight difference.

I have an oversize EBC setup and a ss honda routing line on my 2000 yz426. works great. I would be interested in selling it, but I do not have the stock rotor (need a swap). I will sell the EBC setup for half of retail ($80) with swap. pm me or send an email to

I got everything installed and did a half-ass bleed job since I needed to leave (filling and bleeding a bone dry system sucks!). Took it out for spin and after a few hard pulls it felt pretty good...... even with air in the system it felt better than the stock setup. Once I get it bled properly I think I'm gonna be a happy camper. Plus the Nissin MC adjustment screw doesnt stick out like the old Akebono one did and doesn't shred my finger anymore :cry:

Now I need to tie wrap the line to the fork guard.... even with the keeper installed it will rub against the rotor after coming a hard landing. Damn $35 POS line clamp :cry:


thanks for the offer, but my allowance has been disabled for a while.... :cry:


Not much you can do truthfully, the 2000 has non flaoters in the front thismakes a big differance as well as the master cylinder. I put the cr routing on as well as an over sized roter in the front, works like a charm, although, when I ride m sons 02 250 its is far better for sure, even the back

The best thing I did to control the rear (Which Sucks beyond imagine) is to put a rekluse clutch on. This allows you to use the rear brake to stear just like a smoker.

Dont matter if you lock up the engine will continue on its way. Makes the bike corner and setup up for corners allot better

Dont get OEM or cheap pads either, I got some EBC pads and they made things better as well

One last note

Brake fluid is a key as well, just spend the cash and Get the Motul 600, I have tried Belray, Castrol and others, believe me Motul 600 is the best bet. NOTE DO NOT USE Dot 5 Use Dot 4 or Dot 5.1

I'm not trying to start it up with John again, but I strongly disagree with some of his suggestions here.

If you put more demand on your rear brake then you may very well find it going away faster. I'm a total back brake hound and have found that I'm much easier on the rear brake of my thumpers than I am of my two-strokes. Reason being, because I can use the motor to do some of my braking for me. If you install an auto clutch you're going to loose the motor braking.

I've had more issues with back brakes than anyone else I know. I've tried everything to keep my brakes good and have found that proper maintenance and OEM parts is the way to go.

For pads I've tried them all. Nothing works as good as the OEM stuff for Yamahas. The OEM kits come with fresh insulators whereas the AM ones do not.

Your rotors could be an issue too. Verify that they are still within tolerances for thickness. If they're too worn then the system will overheat prematurely. Also, if the rotors are a little warped or bent this will cause excessive wear on the pads and caliper guide pins, thus causing a loss in pedal or lever leverage. It will take more effort to engage the brakes.

As far as AM rotors go I don't thing there's much difference there, nor do I think floating rotors are that big of a deal either. I use OEM rotors only because I get a better deal on that stuff through my racer support deal, but if I didn't have that then I'd probably run a more cost effective rotor. On average I go through three rear rotors and two front rotors on a bike per year. The rotors just wear out.

I do however totally agree with John about the fluid. I've had the best luck with the Motul stuff than I've had with any other product. I was introduced to that stuff by a national championship road racer and have swore by it sense.

One thing I do very religiously is bleed the brake systems on my bikes. I do this before every race on my event bikes and every three rides on my fun bikes.

And last, you might want to consider rebuilding the master cylinders and calipers. Yamaha sells kits for both ends that are very reasonably priced.

THIS is all you need to do....

MW's Honda Who Brake Mod

PM for the pics...

It was a 100% improvement. I tried the Oversized Rotor first....than the Ferodo Brake Pads....than I created this mod.


Here is the best brake setup I have found for my older YZ. The brakes on my 98 are better than anything I have ridden. That includes new CR honda's.

The stock front mastercylinder is the biggest problem. I could never get good brakes with the Akebono. Sell it on EBAY and buy a mastercylinder from a CR Honda. Back in 96 and 97 Pro Circuit made thsi mod to their Kawasaki's. I used a 2000 year, but anything modern. This helped a considerable amount. I have both floating and non floating rotors. I actually like the non floating a bit better. The feel is better. The power is the same. The newer YZ's use a larger diameter rotor. You'll need a new hanger for your caliper if you go this route. Yamaha wants you to get a new caliper for this bracket. Honda will sell you one seperately. I believe I tried one from a 98 CR, but dont quote me on that! I am using an ebc rotor (older, small diameter), but the stock one is fine if it is clean. I rebuilt the front caliper. The pistons and seals get a lot of dirt packed around them. I dont believe this effects power, but the brakes drag like crazy if the pistons bind up. This created heat, then the power drops a lot. I used Honda CR seals from a 2001. The stock pistons cleaned up just fine. The pistons and seals are the same as Yamaha, but about 1/3 the price. The next improvement came from Honda CR brake pads. Again, they are all the same. I asked for 450 pads.

If you bleed them properly, this is all you need. After bleeding them, tape the brake lever in the applied position and leave it overnight. I dont know why this works, but it does. This will even help your stock brakes. I believe it allows all of the air to escape. The brakes will be as good as anything out there. I added a fastline "CR style" brake line. This may have helped some, but nothing compared to the mastercylinder.

The only thing left is preventing the brakes from getting screwed up again. Keep all soaps off of the pads and rotor. No more high pressure car washes on the caliper. The soap ruins the pads.

I had planned on going oversize, but at this point I have canceled the idea. The brakes will lock up with one finger pressure and have a very solid feel.

You should be able to do this wil very little out of pocket expense. The Akeboner brand mastercylinders are over 300.00 from Yamaha. Note this in your ebay ad. People will be fighting with each other to have the chance to buy yours for 95.00. Use the extra money for a mightyvac. It makes bleedign a no brainer. If you skip the vac, you can suck the fluid out with your mouth. The fluid tastes bad. It will take many beers to wash the aftertaste away.

If I did it over I might hold out for a new YZ Nissin m/c. The honda type secures the brake line on the back side. It somewhat limits the adjustment range on the lever. It worked fine for me, but others might not like it. Any Nissin that says "11" on it should work very well. This inclused the Suzuki style (identical to honda) or the Yamaha style (identical to Kawasaki's).

As for the rear, dont ignore the obvious. Rebuild the caliper. The Honda CR parts did not fit mine. I had to pay Yamaha prices for the piston and seals....this sucked.

The first thing to check is the linkage. Make sure the pedal is pressurizing the system. I have seen a lot of bikes that run out of brake pedal movement before they put any pressure on the mastercylinder. Mine was horrible the day I brought the bike home. Notice the 10mm adjustment bolt and 12mm nut that locks it all in position. Bleed the rear just like the front. When your finished, push down the brake pedal. You can then push a long phillips screwdriver in the hollow swingarm pivot bolt. This will hold the leverdown overnight.

Wash the caliper and rotor with water only, Dont used brake cleaner. Dry the pieces after washing. I use a leaf blower or an aircompressor.

I spend more money of OCD medication than I do motorcycling. If you really want to go nuts, make sure the lever fits your mastercylinder properly. Polish the sides of the lever. Find some shim stock to remove all the up and down play in the lever. Be sure and lubricate the rear brake pedal as well. It is amazing how much drag can develope when th epivot gets dirty.

Great stuff, thanks for the tips about using Honda parts!

I already got a brand new MC from ebay, it came from a Cannondale but is identical to the late model Honda ones. I also have a Ride Engineering Honda style SS brake line and some Motul 600 fluid in there. I also now have a Mity Vac.....

The only things I'm wanting to do are replace the discs, pads and give both ends a proper bleeding. I'll probably rebuild the calipers sometime soon, but they seem to be performing well now.

Any hints on where I can get some new rotors without breaking the bank (or my dealers face)? These guys are freaking crooks.

I always get my rotors from Rocky Mountain atv. I will probably get my next replacements from the Thumpertalk store.

I used the Tusk brand on a friends bike and they worked very well. They are only 49.00. For my own bike, I thought about it, but I went with the ebc brand.

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