Rekluse Question

I've installed a Rekluse clutch on my 02 426 and it was awesome for the first couple of hours, but then started to slip badly and I was unable to get it to stop by adjusting the perch adjuster. I've measured the gap as described in the manual and it's nearly 50 hundreths of an inch, which is pretty far out of spec.

According to the manual, I need to get one of the fatter friction plates from Rekluse, who have been out of the office over the holidays and have not returned either my phone calls or my e-mails, but what bothers me is that I have no slack whatsoever in my clutch cable, almost as if the cable is too short. What I observe is that even when I adjust both the clutch arm actuator and the stock cable adjuster by the clutch lever all the way out, the slightest movement of the clutch lever moves the clutch actuator arm in the crack case.

Is it possible that the cable is pulling the clutch open and causing the measured plate gap to be wider than it really is? If yes, how could the clutch have worked so great for the first couple of hours?

I had the dealer install the clutch, which I really regret it (I had them put in a 450 exhaust valve at the same time, which I did not fell comfortable doing) I think if I had done the work myself, I'm sure I'd have a much better handle on this thing.

I really love the way the clutch worked, but I'm getting pretty frustrated with Rekluse being in vacation mode.

One more thing. The whole clutch feels a bit loose. When I place my hand on the outside plate (the one with the tiny allen head bolts in it) there is noticible side to side wobble, which is the play that allows me to get the feeler gauges in there. Is this normal, or is it an indication that the clutch cable is pulling the clutch open?

I had to adjust mine after the first ride, I swapped a factory metal plate for a rekluse plate. The kit comes with some extra plates. I haven't messed with it since.

What about the clutch cable slack? Am I off-base thinking that I should be able to adjust the cable such that lever can be moved slightly without moving the clutch acutator arm?

What about the clutch cable slack? Am I off-base thinking that I should be able to adjust the cable such that lever can be moved slightly without moving the clutch acutator arm?

I had to go look at the bike for this one. As soon as I touch the lever the actuator arm moves, my fiancee has a 250F with the Rekluse, it moves the same when you touch the lever aswell. To adjust or readjust I always remove the clutch cable from the clutch lever, because any added pressure from the adjustment spring could affect your measurement.

Thanks! It's a big help to know that your clutch lever works like mine. I found the extra plates that are thicker, so I guess I'll replace it as soon as I get back from the store--I've just discovered that I don't have the correct size allen wrench...

I'll let you know how I make out...

i beleive they are torx head (not sure which one) mine also went out to .047 or somewhere in there after a couple hours break in. your clutch cable will stretch and then you'll have more freeplay. there is only supposed to be a nickels(about 1/8") width of play at the clutch lever. :cry:

Phatt the loose clutch is normal Mine is the same

One thing that I have suggested as well as most everyone I talk to on the rekluse is initial break in.

Mine did the very same thing, I ran it for about 40 minutes and the clutch started to slip. After speking to rekluse on this, the one thing I came out of is as what was said, and I add this to every new rekluse owner

Ride the bike after first setup until the bike is at oper temp

shut off bring home and check the install gap. you will need to in 99% of the time re-adjust the gap


What do you think about the 450 cam?

I have ridden several bikes with the auto-clutch, and if I did more tight-woods (I avoid tight woods like the PLAGUE!) I would also have one of those bad-boys.

That cam up-grade is the cat's meow.


So it's not allen bolts that hold the clutch plates in, it Torx head? Never heard of them. Is this a tool any hardware will have? Sheesh, it'd be nice if that was in the documentation. Or better yet, if they'd included the tool.

I'll file a proper ride report once I've put some decent time on it, but it's really cool to have it kick over like a two stroke. Given that I did the cam and the same time I installed the clutch, my guess is that the difference the clutch makes will totally overshadow any power difference from the cam, but I'll let you know.

I have a question, Did you put a new clutch in at the same time as you instaled the auto clutch?

I didnt, I put the Zstart clutch in with my stock clutch with over 4000 miles on it and have not had to re-adjust anything.

The clutch freeplay at the lever is another story, I cant get it two 1/8" at the lever, there isnt enough cable to do it without the lever only having 1/2 of its travel.

Other than that the auto clutch is the balls, 200 miles of tight woods and no slipping.



The tool to use on the little screws comes with the kit.

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