XR650L battery relocation

Howdy gent's,

May be in the wrong forum for this question and I did a forum search for an answer but alas, Homer'd out again.

Anyone of you seen or know the layout/procedure or what part's you need to relocate or get rid of, the stock battery and relocate assorted ignition components from the stock left-side carrier box ?

Have heard trickles of info from riders elsewhere about replacing w/gel pack and or placing stock battery lower near/in the airbox ??

Thanks for any help :cry: in my diet/weight loss program for this 650 dualsport beasty,Happy Trails


Look at an NX650. They had dual exhaust and also had a battery. I do not know where it was locared but it was not in the XR650L's location because of the second muffler.

I have looked at the possibilities of this before also, but there is precious little room in the air box for it. One guy on here suggested using a battery specified for a KTM 525. He was using one (in the stock location) and said no problems at least for a while with the amperage. These batteries are smaller but also more than likely not as powerful. You know the thing that gets me is that Honda stuck the battery up high, toward the back, and on the side. :cry: Mass centralization was not high on the priority list I guess. :cry:

What all have you removed from the bike as far as weight loss?

I would like to put mine on a diet also. I have done a few things such as the horn(1 lbs), turn sigs(2 lbs), removed tailight assembly(2 lbs), smog gone(2lbs), snorkel gone(.2 lbs), yoshimura exhaust( 3 lbs ), rear fender frame( 3lbs)

Please let me know what else you have done.

It's been done. If you do some web searches you "should" find someone who's done it before and maybe some photos to go along with it. Unfortunately I no longer have the photos or contact information I obtained a long time ago when I was contemplating this mod.

Yes, you will need to relocate all the electrical components from the old battery box, including a smaller battery with longer cables, into the "old" air box. Then you'll need to install a K&N type filter with an angled intake horn crammed against the "new" battery box. Don't get me wrong because it can be done, but it didn't seem like it was worth it. It just didn't seem very clean or bullet-proof. :cry:

In the end I abandoned the idea because it's really not practical. A better mod would be to eliminate the battery altogether and install a kickstarter if weight is such a big issue. I'd sure miss the magic button, though. Or a better idea is to go with a lighter battery. I've read here you can save almost 3 pounds by changing to a smaller battery. :cry:

My $0.02.

Sorry for delay in reply/response. Looks like you have removed same components as me, right down to the "YOSH HOUND" except that I weighed each stock turn signal as 6 maybe 7 oz each, (stretching it)(total of 1.5 #'s). I also removed the steel mounting pieces/ears for rear turn signals,6oz each. I'm using Lockhart-phillips ("flush mount V")aftermarket units w/self adhesive to a narrow strip of plexiglass bolted thru the rear fender frame via stock 6mm(10mm head) bolts .Have not removed the rear fender frame(3 #'s aye??, could try it) but because I have a "Moose" rear fender bag with 2#'s of tools(for the two stroke's and other less reliable dual sport equipment that fails on the trail) and CO2/manual inflater,patch kit, etc., I think that my fender and bag would fall victim to the rear tire on some of my cannonball landings. Trying to get the low down from another 650L rider at this time(have seen a couple of his pics and it looks good/feasable/doable) on moving the battery and other electrical components to the airbox to distribute that weight to lower, more centralized position and using a slip on K&N filter. This will eliminate the big black box w/weight hanging high up on the left. You don't use/run a horn?? Fl. requires you to have a horn and I need,have to use mine all too often to not have something.For the horn I replaced it w/a small CO2 "boat horn" which literally blows any stock car or m/c horn away. I wrap the 1.5oz fuel cylinder/can in a strip of inner tube and use two zip-tie's to hold it to back side of handlebar and the button is right next to the stock horn button w/ my 30" cut-down Renthals. It's a" Tempo"cheapy, but it's the only one to be found that has the trigger button on top of the bell($9,refills $4). It will get any driver of a rattling trunklid/boombox rappers attention or any cell phone yapping,no-driving SUV idiot that violates your right of way! I can send you a pic of it mounted to let you know what to look for, it clears my 4 gal. clarke on full lock, so it's sweet.

Sorry so long,too much coffee,

Happy Trails,

JP P'cola,Fl.

I own an "L" myself. I have seen quite a few posts on this sight regarding removing weight from various motorcycles. It just doesn't make sense to me. First of all you make the bike less streetable and reliable. Secondly, will a 15 lb. weight loss really make a difference on a 450 lb. Machine (minimum of rider plus bike)? All this talk of highly placed weight doen't make too much sense to me, because every time you start the beast you add 150-250 lbs of weight right on top of it. Removing 15 lbs of weight results in a 3-4% weight reduction. Honestly I ride my L all the time, I know for a fact that even a 40 lb weight loss wouldn't make a huge difference.

Not to rain on anyone's parade, but here is my recommendation.

1-lose 10 lbs on the treadmill, and have a good BM before you go riding. (13 lbs total)

2-buy a different bike, that is made the way you want it from the factory.

I have seen a buddy spend over $5000 on supercharging, water injecting , and otherwise supertuning his truck, only to have the new model year come out with a truck more powerful than his in stock form. Now he probably could sell his for less than a stock truck of a similar year, because no one wants all that powerful stuff, that makes it less reliable, less efficient, more maintenence intensive.

I understand that tinkering is what makes this sport fun, and I shouldn't bust on anyone for doing what they enjoy. But at least look at the cost to potential benefits ratio, and look at how much work, cost, pain in the a$$, is worth a 15 lb weight loss, on a detuned BRP.

My .02



40 pounds of weight lost WOULD make a HUGE difference.

Power to weight ratio comes into play when you remove weight and add power.

I can notice a difference with a full tank of fuel and and empty one. And 2 gallons of fuel dosn't weigh anywhere near 40 pounds.

I drive my L everyday also. I have owned it since new and I notice a difference in handling, jumping, cranking wheelies since removing all the hardware. I plan on removing more weight and adding more power still. It does make a difference.

Honestly I ride my L all the time, I know for a fact that even a 40 lb weight loss wouldn't make a huge difference.
All this talk of highly placed weight doen't make too much sense to me, because every time you start the beast you add 150-250 lbs of weight right on top of it.
Not when you stand on the pegs.:cry: I agree about the deminishing returns the more you try to improve on a bike, but you can't blame people for trying.:cry:

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