Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

Shock Spring Removal

Recommended Posts

On my 2000 "S", I decided to spring it appropriatly for my girth. I have the shock out of the bike but I can't figure out how to get the spring off. I figured this would be a no-brainer but I can't even see where to start.:cry: Do I have to dis-assemble the shock just to respring? Should I have a pro do it? If so how huch extra to revalve while it is apart?

Thanks

JL

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Alot can be learned from the Suzuki shop manual. It's a worth while investment.

To get your spring off: First, clean the threads and give them a small shot of WD-40. Then, loosen the lock nut and preload nut to the end of the threads. Be careful the bottom side doesn't fall apart before you see how it is assembled. At the bottom side of the spring, remove the retainer rings and slide the spring off the bottom of the shock.

As for the valving, you should contact a local shop.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i have a 2003 drz e. i had to take it to the shop to have the spring changed. you have to release the gas pressure to un bolt the bottom. mine did not have retainer rings. kevin

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
i have a 2003 drz e. i had to take it to the shop to have the spring changed. you have to release the gas pressure to un bolt the bottom. mine did not have retainer rings. kevin

Wow! Never seen one like that. What did they charge you?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
i have a 2003 drz e. i had to take it to the shop to have the spring changed. you have to release the gas pressure to un bolt the bottom. mine did not have retainer rings. kevin

NO NO NO

:cry:

Not even close.. and if that shop told you that ,,, never go back :cry:

The Showa shocks used on the DRZ require nothing more then loosening the lock nut and adjuster.. There is a collar on the bottom that moves up,, then a circlip to be removed,, the collar then comes down and off.. The spring will now come off.

rear_shock_absorber.bmp

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bronco is right. I was once told the same thing even though I had already had mine apart the correct way. Sorry to say some shops can't find their rear end with both hands. Anybody can remove the spring with no special tools, once you expose the retaining ring.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
i have a 2003 drz e. i had to take it to the shop to have the spring changed. you have to release the gas pressure to un bolt the bottom. mine did not have retainer rings. kevin

youve got to be kidding.....................

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ah guys, he has a 2000 DRZ400S model, they do not come apart like the "E" model or newer "S" shocks do. There is no clip at the bottom of the shock!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thats strange my stock 2001 DRZ400S shock did not have that set up like my 2002 DRZ400E shock did. Does your shock have compression and rebound settings?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Ah guys, he has a 2000 DRZ400S model, they do not come apart like the "E" model or newer "S" shocks do. There is no clip at the bottom of the shock!
Originally Posted by kfcz400

i have a 2003 drz e. i had to take it to the shop to have the spring changed. you have to release the gas pressure to un bolt the bottom. mine did not have retainer rings. kevin

Linco.. not sure what post your talking about,,, but the one that started my reply in the thread was the one above,,,,,where he says he has a 2003 E :cry:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ooppps wasn't awake at the time! Not coffeed up enough!!! :cry:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Again, I say that is strange, when I swaped the shocks and springs from my 01 "S" shock it had no clip. I think I had to remove the the bottom part of the shock that bolts on to the linkage to get the spring off. :cry:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

it was there.sometimes the fit between the 2 pieces is so tight it looks like one piece.sometimes the corrosion and such makes them act like one peice as well.

there is no shock that you to take the clevis off to change springs.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • By Bignerd0100100
      Hey all, 
      I'm looking at buying a 2004 Suzuki DRZ400EK or at least I think it's an EK according to Vin lookup websites, but it does not appear to have a kickstarter. I was told the bike was owned by a motorcycle dealer and that it has a current green sticker, and a California license plate but has not been registered for the streets since 2011. I want this as a dual sport but am not clear if the fact that it already has a plate means I am good to register it or if maybe they took away the ability to register it after it was plated, California loves to do that kind of stuff. Since the bike was owned by a dealer I would think they were up on the latest regulations in California, but who knows. Can anyone add any insight as to what I should look for on the bike itself like the carburetor, model numbers etc? Or do I just try my luck at the DMV?
    • By smokey9lives
      Hi,
      I have a 2003 DRZ (actually a KLX400) and the head tube bearings are shot.  I ordered a new set to install but I'm wondering if anyone has any recommendations on other parts I should replace while I have the front disassembled.  I was thinking about new rubber fork protectors, but are there other things that wear out on the DRZ front ends that you can only get to when disassambled?
      I also broke off a replacement key that I got for the steering lock.  I must have been made of cheap pot-metal.  Should I just remove the whole lock mechanism?
      Any tips or tricks for getting the old bearings out and the new ones in would be welcome!
      Thanks!
    • By antonyp
      Hey Guys,
      I recently bought a 2003 DRZ400S and thought it would be a good idea to check the valves clearance etc . I timed the engine on TDC with the magneto mark aligned as per the manual but I find the cam timing slightly odd. The arrows pointing upward are on the 1st and 15th pin as they should but with the magneto timing mark aligned they are not perfectly straight. Same goes for the arrows that should be parallel to the cylinder head casing. Is this normal or should they be absolutely perfect ?
       

×