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Well my hub is toast.

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For the 10th time my sprocket bolts loosened up. I locktighted the shat out of them, but they kept coming loose. I pulled the sprocky and it seems this last time I rode long enough before realizing they were loose, that the holes in the hub became oblong. I Recently changed sprockets and bolts and all was good with the hub. Why dont things stay put on KTM's??????? Ive lost 2 motor mount bolts, steering stop bolts, kicker bolt, sprocket bolts, spoke.......... Yes Ive locktightened the bike.

Im getting kinda fed up. I cant afford to buy a new hub right now. Ill try to get my DRZ back together. Sheesh I ride IT more than this dam pumpkin. Im getting discouraged. :cry: I work with Yamahas all day long, and I dont see this crap happening......

Sorry Im done...just grumpy tonight....

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I don't know what to tell you, I haven't even had to tighten a spoke on my Katoom. I marked all of the nuts and bolts with a sharpie on the day I bought it and nothing has come loose. I haven't even had to adjust the chain yet and my bike has 32 hours on it. I did loctite the kickstart bolt and the shifter bolt, but that's it.

I know others have had some rear hub issues, but it seemed to be related to a too tight chain. Take your shock off and run the rear wheel through it's stroke and see if the chain binds as the rear wheel is just short of bottoming. It's surprising how tight the chain gets as it swings through it's stroke.

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If anything my chain is borderline too loose. My 300 wasnt near as bad as this 450 even with the vibes. I ride it pretty dam hard, but it should hold together. I dunno. Im pretty dam cranky right now though. :cry:

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Cicso

Sorry to hear about that, I know youve been around here for a while, think you know your stuff, at the same time I can not imagine a sprocket bolt problem that is not related to chain too tight? I would strongly recomend doing any chain adjustment on a RFS with the shock off, wheel blocked up so the swing arm is aimed at the CS sprocket. Its that big gear for 1st on the output shaft for the low first of an EXC that forces the swing arm pivot and CS further apart.

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I hear you. And I can say the chain is LOOSE. Droopy loose. I learned on my 300 what tight chains on a KTM will do (CS seal leked profusely). The chain is loose with the swingarm all the way up. The hub may have been ovaled the first time around, so slightliy I couldnt see it and the bolts would work loose ever since then. :cry:

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I hear you. And I can say the chain is LOOSE. Droopy loose. I learned on my 300 what tight chains on a KTM will do (CS seal leked profusely). The chain is loose with the swingarm all the way up. The hub may have been ovaled the first time around, so slightliy I couldnt see it and the bolts would work loose ever since then. :cry:
The swingarm does not need to be all the way up, you have to get the centres of the countershaft, swingarm and rear axle all lined up.... thats the tightest point of the chain

Stringline3.jpg

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Why not the whole YZ/WR? they seem to be stronger bikes.......

Yes Im still grumpy:D

Ill get over it next week.:cry:

I've heard people use the YZ/WR sprocket bolts and supposedly they are much stronger.

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The hub may have been ovaled the first time around, so slightliy I couldnt see it and the bolts would work loose ever since then.
Sorry to hear about your problems, Cisco. I imagine this is exactly the case, though. Once they get ovaled, it'd be pretty hard keep things right.

I've found that the best way to get loctite to work reliabily is to clean up the bolts and nuts/threads thoroughly everytime you break one loose or take it out. I take the bolts to the wire wheel and get them spotless. I then spray the bolt and nut/threads with brake/contact cleaner and blow them dry. When I do this, I don't have any issues with the fastner coming loose.

Are you using red loctite on the sprocket bolts?

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Why not the whole YZ/WR? they seem to be stronger bikes.......

Ohhhh just let me sit here and look at that quote for a while :cry: :cry:

Awwwww yes, it does look good. J/K :cry: '

Zac, don't give up. You always figure out your problem and fix them accordingly. I have faith in you buddy :cry:

P.S. Don't listen to that DP guy.... he doesn't know sh*t :cry:

Fryboy

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Ohhhh just let me sit here and look at that quote for a while :cry::worthy:

Awwwww yes, it does look good. J/K :worthy: '

Zac, don't give up. You always figure out your problem and fix them accordingly. I have faith in you buddy :cry:

P.S. Don't listen to that DP guy.... he doesn't know sh*t :worthy:

Fryboy

:worthy::cry: :cry: :cry::devil: :devil: :D :D :mad: :mad: :D :D :worthy: :worthy: :worthy: :worthy: :worthy:

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Cisco,

I don't own a KTM yet, but I wondered if the extra flywheel weight could be causing some sort of air wrench effect on the bike, in terms of the mass causing either vibration or extra motor torque. You mentioned the motor mounts coming loose, and I saw the 39 oz weight in your signature. It might be worth comparing notes with other MXC riders with lesser flywheel weight. They may have some, all, or none of the same problems.

The other half of the question has to be, if it is too much weight, how can it stay on the crank half and cause problems elsewhere?

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Too much chain slack and a really heavy flywheel mass is the equivalent of a big hammer. Too tight is probably worse, but too loose allows the engine to "get ahead" of the rear sprocket while it is accelerating under no load....and then when the chain slams tight...Ouch!

I also agree that if the hub holes become ovaled at all, it is all down hill from there.....

Good luck and keep us informed.

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Too much chain slack and a really heavy flywheel mass is the equivalent of a big hammer. Too tight is probably worse, but too loose allows the engine to "get ahead" of the rear sprocket while it is accelerating under no load....and then when the chain slams tight...Ouch!

Even with the extra weight he's put on there is still less crank weight than a stock e/mxc crank so I can't see that being the problem.

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When I get a new bike I do as Jeb suggested and remove the sprocket bolts, clean them, goop them with red loctite and reassemble. I do 1 bolt at a time and put loctite on the bolt so it fills the area in the hub around the bolt. Makes the bolt fit tight in the hole once it's set up.

Once it comes loose and ovals the holes you're screwed! It's just a matter of time from there. :cry::cry::cry:

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Bummer! Neither of my 450's have had that problem. But, I did replace the sprocket bolts when the bikes were new with the Talon kit.

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