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Leaving out the balancer - anyone tried this?


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ACS mentioned a while back that leaving out the stock balancer and bearing in the motor can help the motor spin up quicker. Has anybody tried this? I have one of my TT-R motors apart for a while, so I figured that I'd ask now.

Is this only to help the motor spin up quicker or is there a power gain as well?

Also, how bad are the vibes after doing this?

Thanks in advance,

Antonio

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you can take up to 20 ounces off the flywheel.. i would say try that first and then if you don't think thats enough, take the ballance off

Is there a significant increase in power from taking some weight off the flywheel? Is it worth the potential of stalling due to the lighter flywheel?

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I have my flywheel lightened it it helps rev faster & builds power alittle fast.All these things (jets,air filter & air box,pipe,flywheel,cam,ect) will all make differances that are small but when added togehter & compaired to a stocker they make worlds of differance.

As far as the whole "stalling" issue there ISNT one!!! seriously you wont have any trouble with it in any kind of riffing that you do even if your a first time girl or young kid.On big bikes the weight is more of an issue but not on these.Your bike will start easier as well cause theres not as much weight to get turning over in there.My bike always start 1st or 2nd kick.

Now for the removing the balancer or haveing it lightend i dont know how it will react

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for those types of riding, most companies suggest taking off as much as possible. if your woods riding they recomend either leaving it alone or not taking off much. i still consider it everynow and then even though all i do it ride trails. but yea you would want to take off as much as possible, to get up more speed coming out of turns:thumbsup:

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I didnt weigh mine before & after so i cant tell you an exact weight. If you goto BBRs site & look under the flywheel mod it shows Pics & well as PRC's site (if i remember) & youll see how fat to take it down.Theres rivets there that you go right down to basicly.Thats what we did.

I road race,motard,flat track,MX, back yard bash & slow cruising (as a pit bike & mid ohio....its better than walking the whole Superbike weekend lol) & i havent had any problems with the stalling.If you experianced at all you DEFINATLY wont have a problem with it but it will rev quicker & come off corners better & faster.Its helpfull but dont expect any nitrous boos or anything lol.

I come from racing YSR 50s so i know how much all these little things help in the long run on a bike with not much power to start with & pulling my 6'1 200lbs ass (before leathers) lol ?

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I agree with Super D you shouldn't pay more than 20 to 30 smackers to have this done. Take it to a local machine shop to have it turned, a friend did mine for $25 so don't pay no $99 dollars to have this done. We don't have any stalling problems with ares now that its done. This is a great little addition with the other mods

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Hmmm. I think a few of us have been watching in the background. Whilst not putting down newbies and those who think they know as they are learning it does gets a bit "same question million times". Thats why we watch and often are using PM's as friendships build. ?

Leaving out the balancer and bearings (the bearings are important to be removed so they dont fall out when the cases are hot) make the bike revier. I have also removed the balancer gear drive on the crank and replaced it with a alluminum spacer/washer. The balancer and bearings are easy, the spacer requires good knowledge, a lathe and tools. I also machine the flywheel way down past the remover bolt holes and retap new holes very close to the hub. I also face the rear and step ut so it basically just has the rivets and minimal material to hold together. The flywheel is still heavy by most bikes standard and no where as light as say a Kitaco inner rotor.

The BBR motor and the TTR motor are like this and have run for about 18 months, maybe longer, along with a CDI to allow huge revs in MX and no problems so far but I am going to check the rod shortly as it apears the motard bikes are stretching the rod. MX is less demanding in some ways as you rarely have it flat out for any length of time.

There are a few others who have done the balancer removal with no ill effects other than a bit of vibration as the crank is not a full circle design.

As to stalling....... Thats what a clutch is for. They still dont stall easily even when worked to the max.

Remember I have to sooooome day update my website.....?

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for those types of riding, most companies suggest taking off as much as possible. if your woods riding they recomend either leaving it alone or not taking off much. i still consider it everynow and then even though all i do it ride trails. but yea you would want to take off as much as possible, to get up more speed coming out of turns:thumbsup:
Yes, Take of as much flywheel weight as possible.

There are some flywheel pics at the ProCycle web site:

http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/ttr125.htm

Click on the picture of the flywheel.

ACS,

I wish I'd thought of making new remover holes and turning more weight off

of mine. Looks like I'll be pulling it off again to do just that.

Thanks!

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Hmmm. I think a few of us have been watching in the background. Whilst not putting down newbies and those who think they know as they are learning it does gets a bit "same question million times". Thats why we watch and often are using PM's as friendships build. ?

ACS, thank you for taking the time (again) to respond. This is a lot of great information that I will put to use, and I really appreciate it.

Thanks to all who contributed as well. Now it's time to go play with metal.

???

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