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Hesitating to adjust vavles.

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I have about 30 good rides on my bike, starts fine and runs great.

I know you should adjust the valves once a year on the xr but I have not done so yet.

I am not much of a mechanic and am afraid I might break something important if I try to adjust the valves.

Is there anything delicate I should watch out for when attempting this project.

I don't like taking my bike to the local dealer here. I bought the bike new and took it there for my new bike after break in check up. The mechanic ripped out my snorkel from air box with out re jetting. or asking me. They failed to mentioned this when I picked the bike up. I got home took it for a ride and noticed a loss of power. After inspecting I had to go back and ask for my snorkel. Of course since then Gordon mods have been done.

Any opinions would be great thanks.

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do a search here, there should be plenty of info with pic to guide ya step by step to do the clearance, it is not difficualt at all.

good luck mate :cry:

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If you've done all of Gordon's mods (including grind header, rejet carb), you're fully qualified to check valve clearances. If you don't have a Honda manual, get one and follow it. Quite easy.

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I may be wrong, but if it starts easily and runs fine then you probably should not mess with the valves as they are probably ok.:cry: Get the shop manual though so you will have it when you need to adjust the valves, or do any other work on it. It's easy to adjust the valves. I adjusted mine and it starts so much easier now.:cry:

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do yourself a favor ..spend money on the Honda shop manual , do the valve adjusting yourself, it is simply one of the best insurances you can have for a 4 stroke. Once a yr does not cut it in my books with 30 rides i'de say to check them at least once every 10 -15 rides depending how you push the bike.

I check mine every 3-5 rides depending on how hard i rode.

If you dont want to spend the coin look on here there are hundreds of threads dealing with valves over the yrs

stu

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It's not difficult, but get a friend to help the first time if at all possible. It will just give you some level of comfort.

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Adjust them after the first 100 miles when new.

Then at least once a riding season, preferably before.

If you ride all year then at least every 4 to 6 months.

I adjust the valves on all four of our bikes, to do it every 3-5 rides would be crazy, I'd never get to ride.

Buy the Honda manual, Baja Designs used to sell some sweet little feeler guages, you'll need them too.

It's not hard, don't be intimidated.

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I adjust the valves on all four of our bikes, to do it every 3-5 rides would be crazy, I'd never get to ride.
What he said :cry:
I don't like taking my bike to the local dealer here. I bought the bike new and took it there for my new bike after break in check up. The mechanic ripped out my snorkel from air box with out re jetting. or asking me. They failed to mentioned this when I picked the bike up. I got home took it for a ride and noticed a loss of power.
WOW :cry: :cry: I'm sure he had good intensions but &%$#@!:excuseme: that guy had no right to do that :cry: At least you found out and nuthing bad happend :cry::devil:

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you need to adjust them now. all is quiet is not good. over time the exhaust valves lose clearance!!! when the clearance is reduced the valve does not remain on the seat long enough and therefore does not cool!!! hot exhaust valve can burn.

the only trick is the right hand exhaust valve. if you are not perfectly on TDC the decompressor will be engaged and give you a false reading.

quick and dirty

1. .004 intake cold

2. .005 exhaust cold

3. remove both plugs on alternator cover (left side)

4. top hole align the T on the rotor to the notch by turning crank ccw through the big or middle hole. up to you whether or not to remove plug. I don't

5. remove the 4 caps on valve cover

6. make sure each rocker has clearance, if all are tight rotate 1 full turn back to the T mark. if only rh exhaust is tight you are not quite on TDC. move slightly back or forward until decompressor releases

7. adjust to proper clearances and double check that the nuts are tight.

8. replace all covers

Piece of cake

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you need to adjust them now. all is quiet is not good. over time the exhaust valves lose clearance!!! when the clearance is reduced the valve does not remain on the seat long enough and therefore does not cool!!! hot exhaust valve can burn.

the only trick is the right hand exhaust valve. if you are not perfectly on TDC the decompressor will be engaged and give you a false reading.

quick and dirty

1. .004 intake cold

2. .005 exhaust cold

3. remove both plugs on alternator cover (left side)

4. top hole align the T on the rotor to the notch by turning crank ccw through the big or middle hole. up to you whether or not to remove plug. I don't

5. remove the 4 caps on valve cover

6. make sure each rocker has clearance, if all are tight rotate 1 full turn back to the T mark. if only rh exhaust is tight you are not quite on TDC. move slightly back or forward until decompressor releases

7. adjust to proper clearances and double check that the nuts are tight.

8. replace all covers

Piece of cake

Nicely done :cry:

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Thanks for the help i shall give it a try on the next warm sunny day.
What it's not nice & warm and sunny in CO. today ya big weenie :cry: ............................I was friggins doing wheelies at my shop yesterday at a nice and balmy 23 degreee's :cry::devil:

just kidding :cry:

but I was doing wheelies :cry: :cry:

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I definatly cant complain about colorado weather. I have lived in several parts of the country and colorado has the best weather./

just my opion thu. best of evrything.

ride hard

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Keep in mind that if you think you need to adjust something drastically, you probably have something else going on -- i.e. decompressor activated or one whole turn out and not on TDC compression stroke.

The amount the valves drift off depends a lot on the type of riding. If the bike is run hot and revved a lot then there can be the wear that lets the valve recess into the head and the clearance can go away. On the other hand, if the bike is ridden fairly conservatively, the clearance will not wander off much at all even over a LOT of miles. Clearance can even open up a bit as rockers and cam lobes wear down (but nobody wants to have that kind of wear...)

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Hairy scary , thankyou , here i sugested to adjust valves 3-5 rides , and to some this seemed like alot of work

i was not going to get into it but this is very well said :cry:

The amount the valves drift off depends a lot on the type of riding. If the bike is run hot and revved a lot then there can be the wear that lets the valve recess into the head and the clearance can go away.:cry:

my intake valves need frequent looking at , the hotcam makes the motor run a bit hotter.

stu

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I just bought an XR400 last August. I also have not yet adjusted the valves since the bike runs so great. Based on the comments here I'll do it at the beginning of the season!

Just curious, when you've learned what to do, how long does it take you to perform the adjustment?

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Just curious, when you've learned what to do, how long does it take you to perform the adjustment?

20 minutes max

stu

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20 minutes max

stu

wow, tats quick,

yes, get a good fren to help out at first,

see wat he does & follow it,

xr vavles are easier than adjustin wr4 vavles,

they must be cold when adjusting them,

i.e. left overnite b4 doing it though,

:cry:

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30 minutes or less. valves should be checked often when bike is new, after complete break in they tend to stay in adjustment longer. when does complete break in occurr? depends on hpw hard you twist the throttle. twist it hard or climb some longer nasty rutted, rocky, steep hills and you will break it in faster

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