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Harshness gone!!! or a least much better..

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After much discussion on why my bike was so harsh in the chop. I put bigger springs up front, .49 to .50's. Dropped the oil level from 400cc to 380cc's and it is MUCH better! Thanks for the advice

"It's a little harsh"- Carl Spackler, Caddyshack

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How much do you weigh? I like the way my bike handles all things except braking bumps, I was actually thinking about going up spring rates in the front and rear, going to softer ICS springs, and lowering the oil. I weigh 218 in shorts and flip flops, so I'd say mid 220's with gear probably.?

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What year is your bike?

The MX mags are saying to go to .49's for the 05 model. As i am full soft on the clickers at stock spring rate i was wondering if i should do this mod as well.

It just seems a little backwards, go harder to go softer (Plusher)...?

Mark

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What year is your bike?

The MX mags are saying to go to .49's for the 05 model. As i am full soft on the clickers at stock spring rate i was wondering if i should do this mod as well.

It just seems a little backwards, go harder to go softer (Plusher)...?

Mark

The too soft spring rides in a lower part of the stroke, causing harshness in small chop and such because the "air spring" is already raising pressure some. The stiffer spring rides higher and the initial movement is easier. The lower oil level stops the spike in damping from air pressure rising. So the overall effect is plusher and still has some fight for the big hit.

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I went to the .49 spring in front and lowered the oil to 385 and the forks are less harsh. I weigh ~ 200 with gear.

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For the record bike is an '04 and I weigh 245 nekked. And from my experience always listen to what Rap has to say. He was right on with this one!! One question though Rap. After doing this whould I be able to run my compression even softer?

Michael

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I just recently purchased a 04 CRF450R and I only have one night at the track with it. But I was expecting the front end to feel a little better. It too just feels a little harsh in the chop and you can even feel it landing off of jumps. In comparison to my revalved/resprung KTM 250SX it is still feels better but I was expecting it to feel way better.

I am 194lbs in the buff so am I too heavy for the stock springs should I respring it? By the way the rear feels great I just set the sag and rode it. It tracks straight in the whoops.. and I would be afraid to mess with the rear. Do you have to change both ends at once? Thanks

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I just recently purchased a 04 CRF450R and I only have one night at the track with it. But I was expecting the front end to feel a little better. It too just feels a little harsh in the chop and you can even feel it landing off of jumps. In comparison to my revalved/resprung KTM 250SX it is still feels better but I was expecting it to feel way better.

I am 194lbs in the buff so am I too heavy for the stock springs should I respring it? By the way the rear feels great I just set the sag and rode it. It tracks straight in the whoops.. and I would be afraid to mess with the rear. Do you have to change both ends at once? Thanks

go with a set of .49s and drop the oil hieght to 380 and you'll be much happier.

If ya want to just get giddy over the fork, get the .49s, run the oil hieght at 400 with a subtank setup and your family will take you to the doctor because of your substantial personalitly change because they'll think your crazy cuz of the ridiculous smile on your face :cry:

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okay if I go with the stiffer springs is that all I would need? Is the stock valving good if your sprung correct for your weight and lowered the oil level?

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okay if I go with the stiffer springs is that all I would need? Is the stock valving good if your sprung correct for your weight and lowered the oil level?

its pretty dang close...:cry:

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Cool Thx!!

I have not done much suspension work-- I have sent them out. I need to look at the service manual but can a average shade tree swap the springs with the correct tools? I have access to the cap tool, seal driver and assume I can buy the springs from Factory Connection or Race Tech. I think I may need to buy a cartridge rod holding tool if needed. Do I need anything else and can someone with decent mechanical aptitude make the swap without screwing anything up? Thx

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Cool Thx!!

I have not done much suspension work-- I have sent them out. I need to look at the service manual but can a average shade tree swap the springs with the correct tools? I have access to the cap tool, seal driver and assume I can buy the springs from Factory Connection or Race Tech. I think I may need to buy a cartridge rod holding tool if needed. Do I need anything else and can someone with decent mechanical aptitude make the swap without screwing anything up? Thx

All you need is a 14-15mm wrench for the holding tool. I would recomend you buy the cap wrench though...You'll end up using it more than youd think... :cry:

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Does he need to change the rear spring at the same time. I had uneven springs (small front big rear)and it drove the front down a bit farther into the stroke. By not putting a bigger one in the rear will it do just the opposite?

Earlier I said allways listen to what Rapture has to say. Add Shawn MC to that list as well!!

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okay if I go with the stiffer springs is that all I would need? Is the stock valving good if your sprung correct for your weight and lowered the oil level?

ShawnMC is right too :cry: The stiffer springs with a little lower oil level will feel like a different (and better!) animal.

And MJ11....yes you can run the compression clickers a bit softer, they affect mainly low speed damping. My personal experience is that the compression clickers do not really make the fork harsh within a few clicks range, say from 6-12 out, it's the springs and oil level you need to dial in first. :cry:

And I got to plug the ShawnMC subtanks, those things are great! A good revalve WITH subtanks is a whole new experience for me, and I am liking it alot. Stiff AND plush at the same time.

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Does he need to change the rear spring at the same time. I had uneven springs (small front big rear)and it drove the front down a bit farther into the stroke. By not putting a bigger one in the rear will it do just the opposite?

Earlier I said allways listen to what Rapture has to say. Add Shawn MC to that list as well!!

On the CRF450 the rear spring only NEEDS to be changed once you hit about 190lbs or more. As long as you are getting correct sag readings (100mm rider sag, 10mm-25mm free sag) then you are good to go with the stock spring rate. Check it and change as needed.

I found on my 2003 that I needed stiffer front springs long before I needed a stiffer rear. The .49's are great for anyone over 175lbs as long as you dial in the oil level and clickers a bit. With the stiffer springs use a bit more rebound clicker (2-3 in) if you are happy with that setting currently.

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What is stock .47? It sounds like I an on the bubble as far as weight and springs go.

Instead of a .49 should I be in a .48 at 195LBS?

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hey man, i'm in pretty much exactly the same position as you - 04 crf 450, 195 pounds in texas - was gonna get those .49 springs too - where is the best place to get them do you think - they expensive? i'm in denton by the by

chris

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What is stock .47? It sounds like I an on the bubble as far as weight and springs go.

Instead of a .49 should I be in a .48 at 195LBS?

The difference between .48 and .49 is neglible. Stock is rated at .47 on the 450 Hondas. Really in fork springs .2 up or down is considered a normal step. But at 195lbs, no, it won't be too stiff. You tune the bottoming control with oil level and to some extent, compression clicker adjustement.

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i think mxa recomended changing the fork spring as well -up to .49 and lowering the fork oil too from 415 to 375ccs. good old jody eh?

chris

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i think mxa recomended changing the fork spring as well -up to .49 and lowering the fork oil too from 415 to 375ccs. good old jody eh?

chris

We have done that since the 2003 was brand new...in fact, quite a few 2002 CRF450 riders did that as well. :cry:

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